1. GeorgiaPeach

    GeorgiaPeach New Egg

    3
    0
    7
    Mar 8, 2009
    Howdy! Me and my wonderful girlfriend are new here (her login name obviously lol). She has a silkie at school that she is showing at the local county fair. When school is out, shes a senior so she is graduating and cant keep her chicken at school. Well she wouldnt anyway, she loves chickens too much hehe. We are both the countrry type so we figured we would just build a coop to have a couple more (ok, i know i know, alot more!) since our TSC is having chick days starting this Sunday.

    I been trying to put beginners engineering degree to work (2nd year at UCF) and design a coop that is nice size but well within budget. My dad is also a Gen. Contractor so i have that experience as well (and a 10% discount at HD!!).

    Along with her silkie, we are hoping to get 2 buffs orps (she had one at school also but a racoons invaded their AG area and attacked many chickens and ducks!), 2 ameracaunas, 2 bantams (whatever they get in im guessing). We starting out with 6 due to the fact i dont wanna overdue it just yet and the min you can get is 6 (as most of you know im sure). We hope to maybe hatch some of our own and keep one or 2. we wont have a problem selling.

    The coop i designed is a stacked design, having the coop on top of the run. The run is 8x8 (easy cause standard length of wood) and the coop is 4' 4" x 6' 10''. The numbers are wacky cause i am planning on using 2x2s instead of 2x4 for the majority of it. Of the side of the coop i have the nesting boxes. They will open for easy access

    Question 1: Im still not sure how tall the run and coop will be though... right now both are only at 3ft tall... good sizes or change?

    Im in orlando, fl so the hotter months are coming so i wanna make sure i have good ventilation.

    The back of the coop will open up to access and clean, with the opening having a window on it as well. The windows and vents (size of vents dont directly relate to how big they will actually be) are going to be on the north and south sides, as i dont want the sun to bake in. I could put a small vent on the east side (opposite nest boxes) as that side will be backed up to woods for the most part and the sun wont be able to really shine in for two long).

    And im gonna do hardware wire around the bottom just in case, although Predators wont be allowed courtesy of Camo my Catahoula.

    Theres roughly 29sqft in the coop and 64sq ft in the run.

    Question 2: Should i increase anything? Im trying to stay with lengths of lumber for the run, so i could go up to 10' for a 10x10 run and make the coop 1-2 ft bigger each way increasing the sq footage to around 40-50.

    Keep in my mind, Im on my parents property so no way am i going to have a huge amount of birds as much as i would like to, around 10 max. If it was my property however, id have huge amount of chickens, horses, goats, sheep... you name it. But i have to make my parents happy in order to have em period!

    here is a picture

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2009
  2. scooter147

    scooter147 Chillin' With My Peeps

    2,042
    65
    221
    Jul 30, 2008
    Missouri
    As far as height goes, my suggestion is make it so that cleaning out both the run and coop are easy for you to do, if it is a pain in the rump you are less likely to take the cleaning chores seriously.

    as far as size goes, make it as big as possible. The chickens will be happier.
     
  3. digitS'

    digitS' Chillin' With My Peeps

    2,119
    18
    201
    Dec 12, 2007
    ID/WA border
    You are designing and building a coop for your GeorgiaPeach girlfriend - well, aren't you nice . . . talented with those design programs, too.

    I think it looks great. I don't have a "stacked" coop but definitely see the value. Is that what we should call them? A breeder in Belgium calls them "pile coops." (Click on "COOPS" in the "Info menu" ) I even asked an architect friend if one could say that they are on pilings. He said no but claimed the 3-sided design would be wasted space unless fully enclosed. I think he missed the value of the elevated coop to the chickens - for protection from rain and sun, while outdoors.

    So, there will be 7 chickens with maybe 1 or 2 more, over time. Out of the 7, 3 will be bantams.

    "29sqft in the coop and 64sq ft in the run" Everything is 3' high. That all looks good to me.

    Have fun.

    Steve
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2009
  4. GeorgiaPeach

    GeorgiaPeach New Egg

    3
    0
    7
    Mar 8, 2009
    Thanks guys. And digits, i appreciate the link.

    Yeah, that program is google sketchup, as i have lost my version of solidworks i obtained from the school. Anyway, am i right to assume i should put the windows north and south with florida heat?

    Also, if the info is even out there, what temperatures is is considered "too hot" for them? I know in the brooder they gather or run away from the heat. but what about when they are older?

    thanks
     
  5. digitS'

    digitS' Chillin' With My Peeps

    2,119
    18
    201
    Dec 12, 2007
    ID/WA border
    Traditionally, coop windows have faced east. Even up here near 49° North, when confined outdoors my birds are on the east side of the building and the summer coop window is on the north side.

    I know that studies of heat stress have been carried out on laying hens at 90°F. That was too hot and even tho' the birds continued laying, production was seriously reduced. Death can occur at 95°.

    Steve
     
  6. selinagil

    selinagil Chillin' With My Peeps

    I think it's big enough. I also live in Florida and it gets pretty steamy--so the more ventilation the better---you might could even put a layer of shade cloth over the top of the wire run in the hottest part of summer to help keep them cool. Also yall will love that nest box design---it's so conveneint (mine is also like that!) Good luck and Welcome to BYC!!! [​IMG]
     
  7. newchickmom

    newchickmom Chillin' With My Peeps

    719
    6
    164
    Nov 8, 2007
    Lafayette, Indiana
    I'm not sure 2x2s will be sturdy enough for your coop. You may want to use 2x4s to keep help preditors out. Other than that, I love the design! [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. mullers3acers

    mullers3acers Chillin' With My Peeps

    Oct 9, 2007
    la porte, In
    [​IMG]
     
  9. PortageGirl

    PortageGirl Chillin' With My Peeps

    Happy to meet you! Glad you're here!! [​IMG] Hope you BOTH enjoy our company!! [​IMG] WELCOME to BYC!!! But MAYBE you could get your own BYC login.... GeorgiaPeach pit? [​IMG] kidding!!!!! What a nice coop plan! I never heard of google sketchup, there's so much on google to look through and I obviously don't do it often enough! I'll just have to make time.

    You know of course we'll all demand lots of pictures!

    Welcome again!
     
  10. GeorgiaPeach

    GeorgiaPeach New Egg

    3
    0
    7
    Mar 8, 2009
    Ok, guys... Got an update. I sat down with my dad today, and figured out what all i need in terms of materials, as well as the best way to construct. We layed out "blueprints" if you will. Tomarrow I am picking up the material and hopefully starting construction. If not, then deffinately on Thursday.

    We plan on putting 4 windows on it, 2 on each side. When i say windows, i mean a square with chicken wire over it (would there be any negatives to this?).
    We also are planning on using PT 2x4s for the run, and regular 2x4s/plywood for everything else. We have some paint laying around we are gunna use to paint it and protect it.

    Also, we came up with a plan to make it 2 sections (almost modular) so we can move it around for any reason. And we are making the run able to take the top off to get in.

    We are hoping to have some leftover shingles from an upcoming job to cover the the roof and hopefully keep the coop a little cooler.


    PS, im going to make my own Login, so i dont take hers over [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2009

BackYard Chickens is proudly sponsored by