New member, need help!

Coco's mama!

In the Brooder
May 14, 2018
1) Are you new to chickens / when did you first get chickens?
I've had a roo named coco and chicken named tella for a year now. I've got chicks that are a month and 2 weeks old.
(2) How many chickens do you have right now?
I have 6 in all. Coco and tells are a year. I've got 4 chicks which are named Cleo, happy, cheesy, and nugget (my daughter named it!)
(3) What breeds do you have?
I got to pick from a straightrun for the year olds, my roo is a gamecock. Got pullets as chicks from tsc.
(4) How did you find out about
Trying to find out what's wrong with my tella.
(5) What are some of your other hobbies?
Full time mom!
(6) Tell us about your family, your other pets, your occupation, or anything else you'd like to share.

I've got 4 dogs and 1 pixiebob. My sister is the reason I have chickens in the first place. I lost my first female to a dog. Her name was applesauce! I love my feather babies! I'm the only one who can handle my roo because he is aggressive!


Bambrook Bantams
6 Years
Apr 15, 2013
Forrest Beach, FNQ, Australia
G’Day from down under Coco's mama! :frow Welcome!

This is a link to the Emergencies / Diseases / Injuries and Cures where you should be able to get help with whatever ails Tella.

Please provide as much information as possible on the post and images if they may help with diagnosis.

Things to include are:
1) What type of bird , age and weight (does the chicken seem or feel lighter or thinner than the others.)
2) What is the behavior, exactly.
3) How long has the bird been exhibiting symptoms?
4) Are other birds exhibiting the same symptoms?
5) Is there any bleeding, injury, broken bones or other sign of trauma.
6) What happened, if anything that you know of, that may have caused the situation.
7) What has the bird been eating and drinking, if at all.
8) How does the poop look? Normal? Bloody? Runny? etc.
9) What has been the treatment you have administered so far?
10 ) What is your intent as far as treatment? For example, do you want to treat completely yourself, or do you need help in stabilizing the bird til you can get to a vet?
11) If you have a picture of the wound or condition, please post it. It may help.
12) Describe the housing/bedding in use

Best wishes to Tella, you and your flock.


Crossing the Road
9 Years
Mar 15, 2010
On the MN prairie.

Here is an article you may want to read if you want to try to rehabilitate your rooster.
Here's a post written by Beekissed regarding dealing with problem birds of any gender.

I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the act like it. Carrying is for have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

Personally, I don't have time for an aggressive rooster. They are a liability and a pain (both literally and figuratively). I especially wouldn't keep one around if you have little kids that live at or come visit your place.

Coco's mama!

In the Brooder
May 14, 2018
From the looks of it, I believe tella is being mated too much. I noticed some of her back wing feathers were broken off. I have added some stress to her by adding the chicks since they are not mating ready. She's a hard one to catch so I can't say if there are any changes in weight. When I first got chickens, I had a different female and I thought that it would be okay if i just got a replacement. I want informed that my roo needed more mates. I'm working on getting that under control with the 4 additional chicks. They are only a month old so I've got a while till they are ready.

Coco's mama!

In the Brooder
May 14, 2018
The relationship with my roo is he knows who's boss but only with me. He's not aggressive with his lady and is very protective over her. I have added more and he has grown to protect them as well. He does try to attack my daughter so I try to avoid them being in the same place at the same time. They stay in a hot room since I am in between houses. I'm working on getting a coop built.

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