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PaigeWells said:
So- if I have questions about bringing home my 6 week old chicks, do I start a new thread or do I start here so all u nice people already sort of know some about the coop?
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Go ahead and ask here, if we cannot offer advice, we will point you to the appropriate forum.
@DobieLover gives excellent advice concerning coop builds and remodels.
 
So, I can lock the babies in the chicken jail (2’x8’) part of my coop (6 6 week olds) OR let them run around inside the coop (15x15’). They are currently an hour away from me and at that age will be off heat and used to my climate. I didn’t know if there was a reason to cage them? Maybe because it’s easier to tame them or safer for a few days or an easier transition if they are in a smaller space or something? And should I remove my ramp up to the poop board and confine them to the floor (poop board is about 38” off the floor which is concrete but will have shavings for some padding), or give them the ramp but maybe a mini perch (1x1) and closer to the board/shorter so they can practice roosting in the proper spot whenever they feel like exploring up there? I’ll have 6 and then 2 weeks later get between 3-6 more but all will be the same age. And lastly I want to get an automatic timer or sunlight operated door out to the run, should babies have that option right away or less time out in the run for some reason, and what door does anyone recommend? It will be covered and should stay dry, my lowest winter lows are about 15 but likely a tad warmer under the roof against the house and on the sunny side.
 
I don't see any reason to not give them access to the entire area, as long as it is predator proof. 38" won't be any problem for them. A 2 x8 area would be too small for 6 young pullets.

I don't ever close the chicken doors to my runs. My runs are predator proof. I'm scared of automatic doors.

To tame a chicken, I just get an old blanket to sit on, a good book to read, and a cup of treats to scatter close to me. I talk to them, and sometimes read out loud. This method has always worked for me.
Is there any particular reason for getting the others 2 weeks later? Are you getting both groups from a legitimate breeder or hatchery? You don't want to introduce any diseases into either group.
 
I’m getting both groups from local reputable breeders, the first one only has a few kinds available but the timing works out that they both had them hatch at the same time. I can ask the later one if I can get his early but he does open house on a Saturday first come first served and guarantees all girls, he sells at 8 weeks. I didn’t want to start from babies my first go around because I don’t want to end up with too many roosters, I don’t have electricity to my coop yet for a brooder and the garage is cold, and I’m still building but will finish in time. My coop and run will be predator proof, I’m kinda going Fort Knox overkill but we have everything- coons, possums, weasels, red tailed hawks, bobcats, snakes, coyotes, and bears so I’d rather spend the time up front and hopefully do a good job. I have a lot of ventilation all the way around all of my rafters plus the cupola which is awesome but a lot to block, and I had to order 4’ wide half inch hardware cloth but that just arrived so I’m good. I’m thinking auto door because my daughter is a college soccer player so we travel a lot in the fall on weekends and getting a neighbor to collect eggs later in the day won’t be a problem but that way they can go “outside” safely before I’m up to let them out. I hope to free range (once they are bigger, older, smarter, and know how to put themselves to bed) if it works out, but there will be times when due to weather or travel they need to spend a few days only in the coop and run.

I’m happy that u think I can go full coop right away, sitting on the floor with a book sounds fine with me. Also can 6 weeks old eat bsfl as a treat or is that too big? I compost and worm compost, and I get bsfl in my worm bin. Have been giving them to a neighbor who has her own flock but that’s going to stop!

Also I’m building my adult size roosting boards about 8” above the poop board, I will have about 25’ with in front of the window or not as options so lots of room to claim a spot (I have kids so I KNOW there will likely STILL be fighting over the preferred spots-sigh). I’m using a 2x4 with the wide side up and edges sanded so toes are tucked under feathers for winter, can babies use that or should there be a temporary smaller and lower board? It’s simple enough to do half smaller and half larger and then just switch the small ones out when everybody gets big feet…

Thanks for all the help!
 
I applaud you for putting so much effort into their safety!

My hens call their chicks for every treat when they are just a few days old. They can certainly eat black fly larva. Make sure they have access to grit. I feed a grower feed to mine for their entire life, with calcium available in a seperate container.
You may want to have some electrolytes on hand. Change is stressful for them. A container of electrolytes and another container of plain water is a good idea for times of stress.

I would worry a little about buying from a place that has an "open house". Most respiratory diseases, such as MG, are carried in by people on clothing and shoes.
I encourage you to research proper biosecurity before you make a decision.
 
Ok, I’ll look into biosecurity- my list is growing. My 2 breeders know each other through the chicken world and neither had issues with the other. I was planning to arrive early for selection, now I’m thinking it’s even more important. I’ll look into it more.
What electrolytes do u recommend? I’ll get those for sure. And as to grit, I always save my eggshells for gardening, I bake and then grind them up and save in jars, I have read about offering this. Do you agree? I have lots already. And my breeder lady suggested medicated starter feed, any other advice? I need to look into sprouted grains too…!
 
PaigeWells said:
Ok, I’ll look into biosecurity- my list is growing. My 2 breeders know each other through the chicken world and neither had issues with the other. I was planning to arrive early for selection, now I’m thinking it’s even more important. I’ll look into it more.
What electrolytes do u recommend? I’ll get those for sure. And as to grit, I always save my eggshells for gardening, I bake and then grind them up and save in jars, I have read about offering this. Do you agree? I have lots already. And my breeder lady suggested medicated starter feed, any other advice? I need to look into sprouted grains too…!
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Calcium and insoluable grit are not the same. They won't need calcium until 16 weeks or older.
I do feed mine eggshells for additional calcium, but I also offer oyster shell. My reasoning is, if they are producing their own calcium by way of their eggshells, there will be a deficit at some point.
Insoluable grit is usually made from ground granite and helps them digest their food.
At 6 weeks, I'm not sure they need to be on a starter feed at all. A grower should be fine. You can continue the starter if you are comfortable with that and switch to grower at 12 weeks. To me it is easier to just feed everyone in the flock a grower.
You can find electrolytes at Tractor Supply, Atwood, or just about any farm store. I don't keep a particular brand, but I always have some on hand.
You may want to read a couple of articles on emergency kits too.
Sorry, I just added to your list. 😁
Also, be aware that 6 week Olds can occasionally be mis-sexed too. You may still get a cockrel, but your odds of getting pullets are better. Still, you should have a plan for an accidental male, if you don't want a rooster.
 

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