Oh Boy, Here We Go Again....

[salt and pepper]

getting new chicks soon! Very excited! here's the problem, I want to pick the strongest chicks, but from what I've read, the all look dead on the first day. is there still any way to tell? My other option is to get get them when they are a week old, but can you still feather sex them at a week? Do you look at different feathers? Thank you!

 

[Ridgerunner]

I have a bit of trouble even knowing where to start on this. Where are you getting the chicks? Feed store? Someone hatching them and you get to pick?

Where did you read they all look dead the first day? The internet? Sure, they can only put true stuff on the internet. Remember you are reading this on the internet. Inspires confidence doesn’t it?

I really don’t know where you are coming from on this one. It’s a good idea to not pick the ones sort of standing by themselves all fluffed up. These could be having problems. But they all look dead ???????? No!!!!

Unless the parents have been specifically set up to feather sex them, you cannot feather sex them. It’s exactly the same premise as red or black sex links. The parents have to have specific genetics before you can feather sex them. The father has to be pure for the fast feathering gene. The mother has to have the dominant slow feathering gene. That is just not going to happen with hatchery chicks, especially if you get a breed. That kind of stuff is a real common misconception on this forum.

 

[salt and pepper]

I am getting them from a private breeder, and get to pick the chicks I want. And no, I don't believe everything I read on the Internet, but a LOT of sites say the chicks don't move on the first day, and having not hatched myself, I wasn't sure if this was true. They are NOT hatchery chicks. I don't know if that make a difference, this breeder tries to sex his chicks, but I have experience with this breeder, and he was correct.... 50% of the time. His chicks are really good quality, so that's why I'm going back.

 

[dretd]

What Ridgerunner said.

It would be really helpful for us to give good advice if you briefly state your goals and what you are trying to do. Where are you getting your chicks from? Have you had chickens in the past. If so have you had specific problems you are trying to avoid? That sort of thing.

 

[salt and pepper]

Yes, I got a weak batch from him one time, I'm not sure what was wrong with them, they acted like they had mareks, but only one breed got it. I am trying to avoid that by picking the strongest chicks.

 

[dretd]

Thanks for the expanded information. What sort of set-up do you have for the chicks. What breeds of chicks are you getting?

When a chick first hatches, they have been cramped in the shell and getting out is exhausting for them. Within several hours they will dry their fluff and start making their way around. They don't need to eat or drink immediately as they are still working off their yolk sac, but they can and seeing them going to water is a good thing.

Hatchery chicks are hatched, sexed then shipped to the vendor or new home. They are 2-3 days old when they first come in. If you are getting them from the breeder, although its possible to get the when they first hatch, I would wait a couple of days in case they have a defect where they start to fade and don't start eating and drinking.

 

[dretd]

[/quote]

Yes, I got a weak batch from him one time, I'm not sure what was wrong with them, they acted like they had mareks, but only one breed got it. I am trying to avoid that by picking the strongest chicks.

I always go for the active chicks. One that are moving about ( they do sleep, keep that in mind) eating, drinking etc . I also look at the vent area and make sure they don't have poop stuck to their vent and it doesn't look raw. A bonus are chicks that run over to you instead of panicking and running away, they seem to be the friendliest later on. I would take one that runs away over one that is huddling and not caring that you are there. Those huddling/disengaged one are the ones that may be sick or in thrifty.

 

[salt and pepper]

I will have a warm brooder, with bedding, feed, and water ready for them before I get them. I will be getting BCMs, BOs, and ameraucanas. It was the the ameraucanas that were weak last time. Unfortunately, I can only get them when they are a day old, or a week later, It will be too busy in between those times. I have talked to the breeder, and know when the chicks are due to hatch... the day I need to pick them up!

 

[salt and pepper]

I always go for the active chicks. One that are moving about ( they do sleep, keep that in mind) eating, drinking etc . I also look at the vent area and make sure they don't have poop stuck to their vent and it doesn't look raw. A bonus are chicks that run over to you instead of panicking and running away, they seem to be the friendliest later on. I would take one that runs away over one that is huddling and not caring that you are there. Those are the ones that may be sick or in thrifty.[/QUOTE]

Yes the chicks that died were always more mellow, smaller, and would fall asleep as soon as you picked them up. I think they were just weaker, and that the strongest survived.

 

[dretd]

Yes the chicks that died were always more mellow, smaller, and would fall asleep as soon as you picked them up. I think they were just weaker, and that the strongest survived.

That's the risk in getting the day olds. In your case, you are thinking of getting them on the day of hatch--not even day olds. They haven't had time to start eating and drinking yet so it will be harder to make the judgement od healthy/tired or unhealthy. If it is impossible to pick them up the next day or two you may be better off waiting until they are a week old just to weed out the problem chicks. If you can resist the cuteness and wait, that is.

Also, if you take a chick that is really tired and stress it by transporting it too soon, it may not thrive/ survive. It may have otherwise been able to come around if allowed to fully recover from the hatching process. I think waiting is prudent.