OK, is anybody here experienced with the Sportsman 1202 inky?

[TopHatsNSpats]

...cause I have one here that I am trying to get going, and just not having much luck. I got this at an auction, so I don't have a lot of background on it. The case is in outstanding condition, the fan works great, as does the turner. So, that is two issues down from go, and I am thrilled about that. But the heat... no dice. The temperature control on the thermostat seems to be working; at least, it clicks when you move the wafer in and out. I tried a different wafer, still did the same. Tried swapping with a thermostat that I knew was working out of my other inky, still did the same, so it's not the thermostat. Or at least, probably not... Here is the thing: On my 1202, it is supposed to have the two thermostats in series with one another, but on mine, some bright bulb cut the second thermostat out of the line, and even though it 'seems' to be wired correctly as far as I can tell, I am not getting any heat out of it. The second thermostat is only a backup, and the thing should work with just the one, but it isn't. I traced the circuitry, the heat element itself (the spring-wire conductor) is intact and I have solid connection on both ends; but there is so much extra crap behind it (pilot lights, fan motor etc) that I can't use an ohm meter to rule out where a bad connection might be. I am frustrated enough that I am thinking seriously about just buying all new wire and rewiring it from the top down; but that would be a lot of work, and I am running short of time. With such a nice unit, and as expensive as these are, I hate to start messing with the parts I do know are working, but I am pulling my hair out trying to find the bad connection. I think, most probably, that this is something to do with the previous owner being 'creative,' but honestly, I have run through the schematic and it does look like it is wired correctly for just one thermostat... except it does not work. I feel like I am overlooking something basic, but I am not familiar with this model. Anybody have any ideas? I realize this is not a lot to go on, but I can post photos if there is someone familiar with this model who can help! Thanks in advance for your time, I really need to get this guy going because I have 2 1/2 dozen eggs that I can't fit in my other two 'bators and they are aging as we speak!

 

[Bill 101]

I don't know how well you are acquainted with electrical circuits, so I'm starting with simple instructions. Don't be insulted

You don't indicate how much of the "back-up" switch assembly has been removed, I'm assuming all of it.

If you have a Mulit-Meter you can check all the circuits without the unit being plugged in, which I suggest. The Mulit-meter has a continuity setting. (when you set it to continuity & touch both probes together you will get a buzzing sound.) That's how you will know if you have a completed circuit

The Wafer has nothing to do with whether the circuit works or not. It simply expands or contracts with heat or cold. there is a snap switch in the wafer/snap switch assembly that actually makes or breaks the circuit. a simple continuity check will reveal if current is flowing through the nap switch or not. There were 3 connections on the snap switch. a center one (normally for the "hot wire) & 2 connectors. The 2 connections will be marked "n/o" or "n/c" (normally open & normally closed). a wire should be connected to the "n/c"side which will allow the current to travel thru the pilot light to the heater. (When the Wafer expands it contacts the snap switch button cutting off the current flowing to the heater )

With the wafer backed off the snap switch you should get current to the heater. If you check the continuity from the snap switch "hot" terminal to the heater you should have a complete circuit. In fact you should be able to check it completely through the heater. (The wire from "hot terminal" to the pilot light then will go to one side of the heater, there will be another wire on the other end of the heater which should go to a "common wire". check for continuity at that point.) If everything is wired correctly you should get buzzing noise

Hope I've ben clear enough, if not just ask.

 

[TopHatsNSpats]

No, that was very helpful. I am passable with a meter, but not that great, and your instructions cover something I had not tried yet. And I am never insulted when someone is trying to help! I will go now and try what you suggested, and see where we are. BRB

ps yeah, the second thermostat is completely unhooked. It is THERE, and it is a good thermostat because I put it in my backup hovabator to test it; it works perfectly. The thermostat still hooked up also *seems* to be working; at least, it reacts to the wafer and clicks on and off to open and close the circuit. If everything else checks out and I still can't run it down, I figured I would trade thermostats because I know the extra one that was sitting there unhooked is a good one.

 

[TopHatsNSpats]

Update: sorry I didn't get back to you right away but we had kind of a snake problem and by the time I got it dealt with time was too short to get back so I blew it off until today. Pulled the back off the unit and found a HUGE mouse nest in the turner motor; wasn't hurting the turner function any *but* they have seriously chewed on some of the wiring leading.. yes, indeed, to the heater element. I did do the continuity testing you suggested, and I have continuity to the element, through the element, etc, but until I got the back off I could not test any further. Once I get the mouse mess cleared away and replace the chewed wires, we will see where we are. thanks so much for your input and your time!

 

[Bill 101]

When you get the mouse issue taken care of & the wiring fixed you should wash out the inside with some Clorox & water to clean & disinfect the whole incubator. You can do this just by vacuuming it out & wiping it down getting it as clean as possible. The time you spend on cleaning it will pay off in the end.