Old Fashioned Broody Hen Hatch A Long and Informational Thread

[Sylviaanne]

I agree. Unless you're a expert candler it can be very difficult to figure out exactly what's going on late in the incubation. It should be very dark. Sometimes you can't even see the veins, as they're covered up with chick flesh. Unless they stink, or the hen rolls them out of the nest repeatedly, there's still a chance that they might be fine.

Sometimes powdering the broody butt with corn starch can help prevent the poop from sticking, or can help remove what's stuck on the feathers.

Would putting corn starch on a newborn chick's behind act as a preventive to pasty butt before it happens?

 

[Sylviaanne]

That was me. I'm glad it worked for you. Six days, she was stubborn! I've had a few need that long. Thank you so much for letting me know that it works for other people, as everyone's hens are different. I tried lots of things before I discovered this, and am so glad I found an option that is both effective and comfortable for them. My girls are just too big to have their plucked breast on bare wire.

Could you repost or post a link to where you discussed how to break a broody hen? Thanks.

 

[Sydney Acres]

Quote: Hmm, I've never thought of that. It wouldn't hurt to try, but I doubt it would work. The down is so short that there's not much length for the corn starch to stick to, unlike a hen with the long fluff feathers. But it might help unstick it, depending on just how wet vs dry and how much is stuck when you find it. If you try this please post again with results.

 

[ochochicas]

Yesterday I noticed one of my eggs was dirty. Today I looked at the broody hen and she had poo stuck in her feathers. I tried to get it off but it was hard as a rock. I didn't want to get her wet since it is so cold out today, so I ended up cutting the poo and some feathers off with scissors. She was not at all pleased with me.

 

[ChickyChickens]

Yesterday I noticed one of my eggs was dirty. Today I looked at the broody hen and she had poo stuck in her feathers. I tried to get it off but it was hard as a rock. I didn't want to get her wet since it is so cold out today, so I ended up cutting the poo and some feathers off with scissors. She was not at all pleased with me.

Hahahaha!

 

[Sydney Acres]

Quote:
Here it is:


"The wire bottom cage is the best known gold standard for breaking a brood, but my main breed (Red Dorking) is a very heavy hen that broods frequently, so I didn't want them on wire. I tried many of the other well known techniques and nothing worked. Eventually I found a very reliable technique that doesn't require a wire bottom cage, but works just as well.

Build a small wire run. Mine is about 30" wide, 30" high, and 5' long. It is made out of 1X2" welded wire, just four side panels held together by cable ties (it could be made out of other materials, but this is very stable because of the frequent welds, and has lasted for almost 10 years). The top is divided into two parts. Half is attached by cable ties on the sides and one end. The other half is about 4" longer than the remaining opening on top. One end is cable tied onto the first half (the only remaining unattached edge of the top's first half, spanning across the center of the run), so that it can open and close like a hatch. The other end has the extra length bent down over the end side panel so that the hatch doesn't fall down into the run. I prevent the hatch from opening with a simple latch, which isn't usually necessary, but one hen years ago figured out that she could get out of the run by repeatedly flying up into the hatch until it opened. There is no bottom on the run. It is very lightweight, very secure, and easy to move. It was easy and cheap to build, and can be disassembled and stored flat when not in use, if desired.

My birds free range. I put the run somewhere on the property where the broody cannot see her nest, or anything near her nest. I chose an area that is protected from the weather so she won't get too hot, too cold, or wet, and is very safe from predators and harassment. There should ideally be some dirt to dustbathe, and some grass to graze, but that's not essential. What is absolutely necessary is that there not be anything on the ground that can be used to build a nest -- no leaves, no straw, no shavings, no dry grass, no bedding of any kind. Just food, water, plain ground or lawn to sit on, enough room to pace a little as the brood starts to transition out, and no reminder or sight of her nest or eggs. At night I put her in a pet carrier with cardboard on the bottom, covered with a towel, and put her in the garage (or barn, or coop, or spare bedroom -- just somewhere that is no where near her nest, and is 100% predator proof). I've had 100% success at breaking broods with this method, with 90% of hens taking 3-4 days, and the remaining hens taking either 2 or 5-6 days. And no wire pressed into the plucked, bare brood spot on their chest."

After posting this, I've had several PM's and follow-up posts saying that it worked perfectly. But it does take typically 3-4 days, and a few times up to 6 days, so don't give up too early. I once had a bird that had always taken 3 days to break her brood, but that time seemed to be done after the second day. So on day three I let her back with the flock instead of putting her in the run. She foraged and flocked with the other birds for almost the entire day, but by the evening she was back on her nest again. I put her back in the coop for the evening, and back in the broody breaking run the next day, expecting that one more day would do it. But apparently the clock gets reset the moment they see their nest, and she took 4 additional days in the run. So now I'm not anxious to get them out of the run. If there's even a hint of broodiness, they stay in. But it's a nice place for them, and it's not forever, so it's definitely worth making sure they're finished.

 

[Sydney Acres]

Yesterday I noticed one of my eggs was dirty. Today I looked at the broody hen and she had poo stuck in her feathers. I tried to get it off but it was hard as a rock. I didn't want to get her wet since it is so cold out today, so I ended up cutting the poo and some feathers off with scissors. She was not at all pleased with me.

How embarrassing!! It's amazing the sacrifices to our appearance that we endure for the sake of motherhood!

 

[chicken garden lady]

Thanks for responding. This is my first hatch attempt .In the beginning she was so determined I finally moved her to the tractor and gave her a f ew eggs. She was doing very well until the butt thing. Unfortunately this morning she was standing in the nest again and the eggs were cool. Let her out to eat and do her business, she just seems to have lost her broodiness. Maybe the coolness of damp butt feathers interfered, not sure. This afternoon I changed the straw under the eggs thinking it might be soiled when i peeked at her and she was standing next to her nest. The eggs felt warmish. Its hot and humid here today, not sure if that will help at this point. Any chance there is still hope?

 

[Sylviaanne]

Here it is:

Thank you. I copied and saved it along with the link address so I can find it if I run across someone who also needs this information. I appreciate you doing this. Sylvia

 

[Sylviaanne]

Hmm, I've never thought of that. It wouldn't hurt to try, but I doubt it would work. The down is so short that there's not much length for the corn starch to stick to, unlike a hen with the long fluff feathers. But it might help unstick it, depending on just how wet vs dry and how much is stuck when you find it. If you try this please post again with results.

I've only had 2 with pasty butt this year but I have more in the incubator so I might give it a try. Might be worth the effort. Thanks.