Old Fashioned Broody Hen Hatch A Long and Informational Thread

Note: If you see any misinformation, things you think should be added, information needing updated or removed, or any other changes to the FAQs please PM me. I will try and keep them updated. Thanks!

FAQs

How old does a hen and rooster need to be to be able to breed?
They need to be between 16 and 18 weeks old.

How do I know if a hen is broody?
They tend to stay in their nest boxes - getting up only a couple times a day - if that - to get nurishment and to relieve herself. A broody hen also might growl or bite at you if you come too close. They also tend to puff out their feathers to look larger and also to pull some feathers to keep their eggs warm.

Purpose of a broody hen?
A broody hen is great to have around if you want to hatch eggs the natural way. They are great on farms that want to be self sustainable or in case of a power outage when you can't use an electrical incubator. The broody hen will also protect and teach the young chicks. They do however stop laying eggs while being broody and this is a problem for some.

Other hens laying eggs in her nest?
If you find other hens laying eggs in the broody hens nest, it is is best to mark the broodies eggs with a washable non toxic marker. This will allow you to collect the extra eggs each day and ensure the broody continues to sit on the same eggs. Others have had success with moving the broody hen off by herself where other hens can't get to her.

How do I make my hen go broody?
You can't make a hen go broody, especially if it's not in her nature or if broodyness has been bred out of that breed by other breeders or hatcheries. You can however get a few golf balls and put in a nest to see if that will encourage her to go broody. If she sits on the golf balls for a few days without getting up except for a few minutes, then she is broody and you can put some fertile eggs under her.

What are the best broody hens?
Araucana - Frequent Brooder
Australorp - Very Frequent Brooder
Belgian D'Anver - Frequent Brooder
Belgian D'Uccle - Very Frequent Brooder
Brahma - Frequent Brooder
Cochin - Top Notch Brooders
Dominique - Frequent Brooder
Dorking - Very Frequent Brooder
Japanese - Very Frequent Brooder

Java - Frequent Brooder
Marans - Very Frequent Brooder
New Hampshire - Good Brooder
Orpington - Frequent Brooder
Silkie - Top Notch Brooder
Sussex - Good Brooder


How many people find this chart to be accurate?

How very frequently does the average Marans go broody in a year?
 
At least 4 of these are marans cross
20190811_194943.jpg
but I am not sure if that is typlical
 
How many people find this chart to be accurate?

How very frequently does the average Marans go broody in a year?

It's more accurate to say that broodiness is an individual hen sort of thing, but I suppose some breeds are more prone to it. I have a silkie who's a pretty good mama (forgetful & absent-minded at times, but loves her babies). She goes broody multiple times a year. I have another silkie that sits on the food bowl when broody. I guess she loves that feeder so much, she wants to hatch another one. I let her stay broody because I had some eggs in the incubator. When I slipped the chicks under her, she was confused, gave up, and walked away. My other silkie was also broody at that time, so she adopted all of the chicks.

My Dominiques never went broody and most of my LF Orpingtons do not go broody. The ones who do are clumsy and not the best due to accidents. My BEST broody hen ever is a bantam orp named Cookie. Second is a fearless, stubborn Sebright (named Trouble). Although Sebrights are considered "seldom broody" Trouble can't read, so goes broody a few times every year. I find the small bantam breeds are more likely to go broody.
 
Hi Folks, I have 2 broody d'Uccles currently sharing a nest and a clutch of 11 bought EE eggs. They (and I) are first-timers at hatching with broodies. I tried separating the hens before giving them the "real" eggs, but the one I tried to move got so frantic/distressed trying to get back to the original nest I gave in. I'm now at day 9 and am not inclined to candle as most of the eggs are dark-shelled. The hens seem to be taking it in turns to get off the nest for breaks, and I'm amazed how much they move the eggs around the nest. I'm finding this a really interesting/fun experience.

My concern now is whether I should just leave them to hatch and intervene if I'm lucky enough to be there if/when there's any trouble (pecking/rejecting chicks because of the presence of.the other hen) or whether I should reconfigure the nest some way so they have a divider between them before hatch time. Any tips?
 
Hi Folks, I have 2 broody d'Uccles currently sharing a nest and a clutch of 11 bought EE eggs. They (and I) are first-timers at hatching with broodies. I tried separating the hens before giving them the "real" eggs, but the one I tried to move got so frantic/distressed trying to get back to the original nest I gave in. I'm now at day 9 and am not inclined to candle as most of the eggs are dark-shelled. The hens seem to be taking it in turns to get off the nest for breaks, and I'm amazed how much they move the eggs around the nest. I'm finding this a really interesting/fun experience.

My concern now is whether I should just leave them to hatch and intervene if I'm lucky enough to be there if/when there's any trouble (pecking/rejecting chicks because of the presence of.the other hen) or whether I should reconfigure the nest some way so they have a divider between them before hatch time. Any tips?
Each hen is a little different. Many people have left hens together to co-brood. If the mamas are already "friends" then you may have an awesome broody team. Even if they only co-exist, their love for the chicks may cause them to work together. (I had that happen a few times.)

If the hens are fighting over the eggs & pecking at each other, then you may want to separate them. If they're simply sitting next to each other and doing well, it's probably best to let them keep going. (When a hens gets up, the other will roll all the eggs under her body, but that's more like baby-sitting, not stealing. A broody cannot resist the urge to gather up anything & everything that resembles an egg. It's perfectly normal and just what they do.)
 
My silkie is on a clutch of 4 right now, they are each one day apart as she has not layed one egg herself and has taken my EE's eggs in the last 4 days. Now will they all hatch a day apart? Is it likely that she will abandon the other eggs after the first has hatched to care for it?

Also, it is late in the season and its getting cold here with nights around 0celcius. Is it safe to let her raise them in the heated coop or are they safer to stay in the house throughout winter?
 
You do have a staggered hatch. You could remove them, and offer same-day eggs. Or, have an incubator ready in case, and put the last chick or two under her at night.
You do not need to get handsy with a broody. She will take care of the babies through the winter. She will likely have them outside in the snow after a few days.
Having a heated coop is worrisome. If the power goes out, your birds won’t be acclimated to the cold.
 
My silkie is on a clutch of 4 right now, they are each one day apart as she has not layed one egg herself and has taken my EE's eggs in the last 4 days. Now will they all hatch a day apart? Is it likely that she will abandon the other eggs after the first has hatched to care for it?

Also, it is late in the season and its getting cold here with nights around 0celcius. Is it safe to let her raise them in the heated coop or are they safer to stay in the house throughout winter?
It's always best to start all the eggs at the same time to avoid a staggered hatch.

They may hatch over a 4 day period which can be a little hard for the hen. If you provide food & water right next to her, she may be able to hatch the eggs & let the chicks feed without getting up. (Of course having an incubator can save the late eggs in case the hen decides to leave the nest in order to care for the hatched chicks.) I was surprised to learn that if an egg gets cold it goes dormant - not necessarily dead. Popping an abandoned, cooled egg into an incubator can cause it continue to develop & hatch.

It's a good idea to mark your hen's egg now. Use a sharpie so the marks won't wear off. This way when new eggs are added, you can remove the new ones and prevent a bigger staggered hatch.


As far as raising chicks in the winter, the hens can do it. The only thing to watch out for is not overcrowding her. You need to make sure she can cover all the eggs/ chicks. So if she usually hatches 8 chicks.... maybe limit her eggs to 6. That way there's plenty of warm space under mama, and no weaker chicks gets pushed out in the cold.
 
@BullChick @Faraday40
Thanks for the reply! All the eggs come from my one ee. Broody stopped laying eggs right before she became Truly broody. She started laying on them friday or saturday. I was gone all weekend and this is my first time dealing with a real broody. So i let her be with her 3 (suposed to be) fertile ee eggs. Now its going to be a week friday or saturday for the first egg, now if i chuck them and restart, could she break her broodiness or possibly abandon the next clutch if i were to give her new eggs? Would she stay broody that long?

Im debating on leaving her be. If she hatches just one then thats what it will be and the next time around ill know better and make sure she gets all her eggs at the same time...? Hmmmm decision's decision's.
And fortunately i dont have an incubator :(
 

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