On the mend, but still questions: UPDATE, 20 week old banty wormy as heck,

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Keep us updated!

I don't remember - when did you get Ms Murphy? How long have you had her there?
 
I am glad you wormed her. Safeguard is just as good as Valbazen except it doesn't get tapeworm, and you will definitely see them--most people's chickens don't get them. Dawg really has a lot of knowledge and enjoys helping people.
 
Mrs Murphy is a banty that came in that batch of chicks I had hatched for me this spring (May 26), so she is roughly 20 weeks old.

GREAT NEWS! I saw worms in her poop this morning and some were moving!

I am sooooo glad I gave her the safeguard.
Like others, I've found garlic, pumpkin seeds, acv, etc are not preventing worms, or even keeping them in check.
I don't know if some hens would be able to keep the worms from taking over and it is just the weak genetics that let the flourish, or if it is just what happens with worms.

I did put her out with the flock, she was accepted just fine despite being separated. She grazed a bit and then went into a rosebush to doze, so I brought her back in the kennel. Think she needs some invalid care for some time til she hopefully gets back to normal.

Now to work the other pullets and roos who are 20 weeks - I also have 9 hens who are in molt and Dawg says to wait on them because it is too hard.
 
Mrs Murphy is a banty that came in that batch of chicks I had hatched for me this spring (May 26), so she is roughly 20 weeks old.

GREAT NEWS! I saw worms in her poop this morning and some were moving!

I am sooooo glad I gave her the safeguard.
Like others, I've found garlic, pumpkin seeds, acv, etc are not preventing worms, or even keeping them in check.
I don't know if some hens would be able to keep the worms from taking over and it is just the weak genetics that let the flourish, or if it is just what happens with worms.

I did put her out with the flock, she was accepted just fine despite being separated. She grazed a bit and then went into a rosebush to doze, so I brought her back in the kennel. Think she needs some invalid care for some time til she hopefully gets back to normal.

Now to work the other pullets and roos who are 20 weeks - I also have 9 hens who are in molt and Dawg says to wait on them because it is too hard.
If chickens feet touch the ground, they will get worms, it's a fact. Genetics isnt involved.
 
yes, but I am wondering if some chickens are better able to deal with a "normal" parasite load, and what causes the worms to take over?

UPDATE: she was dosed friday night, pooped worms saturday in a cecal poop, and sunday morning, pooped live worms in a regular dropping (green and watery though).
still weak, appetite seems a bit off this morning, and is still excessively thirsty. don't know if I can attribute thirst to worms? or cocci? or what?
 
yes, but I am wondering if some chickens are better able to deal with a "normal" parasite load, and what causes the worms to take over?

UPDATE: she was dosed friday night, pooped worms saturday in a cecal poop, and sunday morning, pooped live worms in a regular dropping (green and watery though).
still weak, appetite seems a bit off this morning, and is still excessively thirsty. don't know if I can attribute thirst to worms? or cocci? or what?

What's a normal parasite load? One roundworm can lay thousands of eggs in ONE day to be deposited onto your soil to be picked up by your other birds, starting their lifecycle all over again. One worm is one worm too many....not to mention the damage caused internally.
Since you're seeing alot of worms; how many eggs have they laid, what damage has been done internally? How many eggs will these roundworms lay?
 
So...I know how to worm the animal...but is there a strategy to knock down the egg load in the ground so that they don't keep getting them over and over?

On another vein -
When I learned to process birds, I opened all the intestines. There was NO SIGN of any worm there. And I know lots of folks that do the same; no worms. Still wondering how things get so out of balance that some birds seem to be full of them and others - nothing.
 
So...I know how to worm the animal...but is there a strategy to knock down the egg load in the ground so that they don't keep getting them over and over?

On another vein -
When I learned to process birds, I opened all the intestines. There was NO SIGN of any worm there. And I know lots of folks that do the same; no worms. Still wondering how things get so out of balance that some birds seem to be full of them and others - nothing.

Keeping birds on the same ground, confined in a pen or run increases wormload. Worm eggs can survive in soil for years no matter the soil conditions, even frozen soil. Soil conditions determine how often and when birds should be wormed. Warm moist/wet soil is very condusive for worms and will require frequent wormings. Cold or cool soil, rocky or mountainous soil, and desertlike soil would require less worming.
Most people dont slice open the digestive tract where most worms would be located, they are usually discarded. Capillary worms can hardly be seen at all even if large roundworms arnt seen. That's not to say that all birds will have worms though, again, depending on soil conditions.
 
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