Opinion on safety holes

[Emma_Bruffy]

I had a chick internally pip this morning for me, but I left for 2 hours and when I came back the chick was no longer peeping so I candled it and the chick had died so I opened the shell and the chick looked perfect, no deformities or anything on the outside, but it had not externally pipped so I dont know if it ran out of oxygen while in the shell( my egg shells are super thick if that is a factor) or if the chick was just weak or unhealthy also if I should add saftey holes on the other 2 eggs so they dont run out of oxygen

 

[EggSighted4Life]

I had a chick internally pip this morning for me, but I left for 2 hours and when I came back the chick was no longer peeping so I candled it and the chick had died

Sorry for your experience.

What day is this internal pip on of incubation? Why are you candling after internal pip.. are you not using a lock down process?

The only way an embryo can die from lack of oxygen within 2 hours.. according to my hatching experience would be if their was fluid where the air pocket is supposed to be. It is possible for an embryo to drown at internal pip... This would be effected possibly by humidity during incubation, as well as egg shell color even.

I would dare to say most of us have extremely strong shells.. thick, if you will.. however.. they are still porous and the oxygen and other gas exchange critical to life still takes place as long as there is enough "air" exchange inside the hatching environment.

No, I don't think safety holes for oxygen in eggs internally pipped for under 24 hours is needed or suggested.

I would ask what bator, what temp, what humidity for incubation and hatching, what breed, egg source personal or shipped, calibrated thermometer/hygrometer? I mean are even talking about an incubator or a broody?

The best resource I can find on embryonic failure (page 52) and other incubation/hatching information..
Incubation guide

For me, it's simple.. either your hatching parameters are off OR chicks that don't hatch weren't meant to. Life is intricate and complicated but it finds a way.

Happy hatching!

 

[Emma_Bruffy]

What day is this internal pip on of incubation? Why are you candling after internal pip.. are you not using a lock down process?

It was on lockdown since day 18 and it is day 24 today I was getting worried by not seeing an external pip by day 24 and candled them, I saw one was internally piped and then it started peeping at me! I put the egg back and left but when I came back the egg wasn't peeping or moving at all so I candled it again and that's how I figured out that it was sadly dead.

 

[Emma_Bruffy]

I would ask what bator, what temp, what humidity for incubation and hatching, what breed, egg source personal or shipped, calibrated thermometer/hygrometer? I mean are even talking about an incubator or a broody?

The incubator is a brinsea mini eco II the temp is 99.5°F humidity for hatching was 40% and 20% throughout incubating the breed is a cross between an ISA brown hen and a easter eggerX black cochin rooster the eggs came from my flock

 

[EggSighted4Life]

It was on lockdown since day 18 and it is day 24 today I was getting worried by not seeing an external pip by day 24 and candled them, I saw one was internally piped and then it started peeping at me! I put the egg back and left but when I came back the egg wasn't peeping or moving at all so I candled it again and that's how I figured out that it was sadly dead.

I see.. in that case.. maybe a safety hole much earlier would have been suggested.. Since it was day 24.. situation is much different.

You could probably use higher humidity than that.. like 40 for incubation and 60+ for lock down.

Cross breeds from your own flock should be hardy and have the best chance at hatching really. But so many things can go awry so easily.

Did you get a chance to review the link I included? Parent nutrition might be a factor or age. Is your temp being checked with another thermometer that's not built into the bator?

When are you going to be able try again?

 

[Emma_Bruffy]

I see.. in that case.. maybe a safety hole much earlier would have been suggested.. Since it was day 24.. situation is much different.

You could probably use higher humidity than that.. like 40 for incubation and 60+ for lock down.

Cross breeds from your own flock should be hardy and have the best chance at hatching really. But so many things can go awry so easily.

Did you get a chance to review the link I included? Parent nutrition might be a factor or age. Is your temp being checked with another thermometer that's not built into the bator?

When are you going to be able try again?

I won't be able to try again until spring because I dont want winter babies, I haven't looked at it yet but I will after I send this, I have been using the thermometer in the incubator and a different one to make sure, my chickens age is 2 years old, and they eat layer pellets mixed with flock raiser and I throw scratch in the run and they free range when i am home, I will raise the humidity next hatch in the spring, and an update the other two eggs are still viable and haven't internally pipped yet

 

[EggSighted4Life]

an update the other two eggs are still viable and haven't internally pipped yet

If they haven't internally pipped at day 24.. with your humidity that low.. they are very likely NOT viable.. I would make a small hole and look inside.. expecting them to be dehydrated/shrink wrapped.. BUT you never know!

If you think those two are still viable.. then crank your humidity as high as it will go. and make peeping sounds to them to encourage piping.

 

[Ebony Rose]

Highly recommend adding a vitamin/mineral supplement to your adult chicken's water. It's been my experience that the feed you get from the store is enough to sustain life and get eggs, but not really good enough for the hen to lay strong, viable eggs for hatching. A momma hen cannot put into an egg what she is deficient in. The supplement is cheap and easy to use.

 

[Emma_Bruffy]

Highly recommend adding a vitamin/mineral supplement to your adult chicken's water. It's been my experience that the feed you get from the store is enough to sustain life and get eggs, but not really good enough for the hen to lay strong, viable eggs for hatching. A momma hen cannot put into an egg what she is deficient in. The supplement is cheap and easy to use.

What brand or type is best or just any from the feed store

 

[Emma_Bruffy]

If they haven't internally pipped at day 24.. with your humidity that low.. they are very likely NOT viable.. I would make a small hole and look inside.. expecting them to be dehydrated/shrink wrapped.. BUT you never know!

If you think those two are still viable.. then crank your humidity as high as it will go. and make peeping sounds to them to encourage piping.

I made the hole and YES they are moving( I can see the membranes moving I didn't cut through the membranes) but not pipped yet, I have been playing chick sounds from my phone to them, and I guess only time will tell from here