Orchids? Anybody?

[BigBlueHen53]

Hi, so just to be clear, I am NOT an authority on orchids! I am looking for folks that know something, ANYTHING, about successfully getting these beautiful, elegant, fussy plants to reliably bloom! I accidentally did (pic attached) but I honestly think this poor plant boomed more in desperation and self-defense than because of anything I successfully did for it. Please, if you're a successful care-giver of orchids, share the knowledge! I need all the help I can get, I have two more plants here waiting for me to figure things out. I do know, by the way, not to give them ice cubes!

 

[BigBlueHen53]

Oops, forgot the picture I promised.

 

[PeaShack]

Well I’m an experienced orchid killer, so may you learn from my mistakes.

That whole study showing they do better in perlite is, well, the stuff that makes compost.

Repotting is a tricky endeavor. They do better when in smaller containers. I do not recommend removing the substrate around potted roots. Just add more to a minimally larger container if repotting needed.

I noticed that brief exposure to cold can stimulate another flower spike to form.

I suppose I have a larger list of what not to do, but keeping away from kids and cats is vital. They only survive in my office (not at home).

 

[kattabelly]

They need to be in good health and getting enough light to store up the energy they need to bloom.

Iirc lower nighttime temperatures are the main trigger for Phalaenopsis to flower.

 

[BigBlueHen53]

not recommend removing the substrate around potted roots

Define "substrate." Mine are in a chopped woody substance in plastic cups. When I remove them from the wood chips there is a small, damp root ball about the size of a golf ball. Which of these is "substrate?"

 

[BigBlueHen53]

noticed that brief exposure to cold can stimulate another flower spike to form.

Mine have several aborted flower spikes. They spring up with gladness and then stop, turn silvery grey and go dormant or die. Do you know what causes this? Should I cut them off at the base of the plant?

 

[microchick]

And exactly how much light do they need? Which window exposure or grow type light?

I had one years ago and while I generally have a green thumb with house plants evidently not with orchids, to date.

Seen them in stores, been tempted to buy one again but don't want to commit plant murder again.

 

[kattabelly]

Define "substrate." Mine are in a chopped woody substance in plastic cups. When I remove them from the wood chips there is a small, damp root ball about the size of a golf ball. Which of these is "substrate?"

That sounds... not quite right. If you do an online image search for something like "Phalaenopsis healthy roots", do yours look like that?

I think there's apps you can download that will let you use your phone as a light meter, so you can work out how much light plants will be getting in different locations. I don't know how accurate they are though.

 

[PeaShack]

I’m sure there is someone on this forum who is an orchid expert! I am not.

Orchid have are very different from other plants. They are called epiphytes. They have potted and aerial roots. The substrate is what the potted roots are exposed to, usually “orchid bark”. Phalaenopsis genus are the most common sold in stores and given as gifts. Make sure you are not confusing aerial roots with flower spikes.

Here is some more info I totally cut and paste:

A small beginner guide to phalaenopsis (Aka moth orchids and that one orchid you always find in stores)​

Hey guys. I've seen an increase of beginners struggling to keep their phals alive for various reasons. I tried seeing if this sub had a beginners guide linked somewhere and i couldn't find anything so i'm making this.
Phalaenopsis are epiphytic orchids native to southern Asia, they grow high up on the bark of trees in humid cloud or rain forests. This means that their roots are bare, not in soil. So just like any other epiphytic plants they should be grown in a very airy mix, good options are orchid bark or sphagnum moss if you leave in a dry climate. You can also mix one of those two with perlite or use both of them, the choice is yours . If grown in soil their roots will rot and the plant will most likely die. The ice cube watering thing is pure bs, cold water will give the plant and its roots shock possibly killing it or weakening it, sellers made it up so that your phalaenopsis dies earlier and you are going to buy another one. The flowers dying is normal. Phalaenopsis flower for about 2-4 months at a time (the time depends on how well they are cared for, the ice cube shock will also shorten the flower's lifespan), they typically flower in autumn/winter or spring/summer depending on the species/hybrid of phalaenopsis you have, most of the ones you will find in stores are P. equestris hybrids, meaning that their flowering will be triggered by a temperature drop, this can be achieved by putting your plant near a window while winter is coming, don't put the plant outside during winter because temps below 10 celsius will kill it. The plant lives for 10-15 years so even if the flowers wither it doesn't mean that you have to buy a new one as they flower every year, assuming they are healthy, and every year as they get stronger and more established their flower spike will also become much bigger and prettier, the orchids you buy in stores are usually on their first bloom which is the smallest. After the flowers wither don't cut the flower spike, as it has nutrients that the orchid can reabsorb, wait until it turns completely yellow, this can take up to a month or even more. While the plant is flowering it may shed its oldest leaves, it is normal they will become yellow and fall but new leaves will grow once the plant finishes flowering. However if new leaves are also yellowing that might be a concern, in that case check for pests or root rot. I recommend using a clear pot (with drainage holes obv) because phalaenopsis roots turn silvery when in need of water, so by using a clear pot you will be able to see if the roots in the substrate have turned silver and if you need to water or not. Don't go off of the color of the ones above the substrate (aerial roots) as they dry out much more quickly and shouldn't be used as an indicator. Like any plants phalaenopsis need to eat, fertilizer is a must. I recommend buying special orchid fertilizer, as the ones you use on other plants are usually too harsh for the delicate orchid roots and will lead to root burn. The orchid should always be fertilized when not in bloom. As for lightining, bright undirect or filtered light is ideal, they can also handle a few hours of partial direct sun a day, but no more than 2-3 hours before getting sunburned. Phalaenopsis should be repotted once you you see that the pot is mostly made up of roots, causing an increase in aerial roots. NEVER repot the orchid while it is flowering as this will cause immense shock. Additionally phalaenopsis can also produce mini clones called keikis on their flower spike or at the base of the crown, these can and should be separated once they reach a decent size (give them about a month or two of growth) as they take all their energy from the mother plant. Once separated they are independent and you will have successfully cloned your orchid, keikis usually take from 3 to 4 years to reach maturity and flower for the first time (assuming they aren't setback).
These are just the basics of phalaenopsis care, if you are interested in learning more i highly recommend watching miss orchid girl's videos, she has everything you need to know about these orchids, general care instructions, repotting instructions, fertilizing and watering advice and everything in between.

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[BigBlueHen53]

THank you!