Outdoor Rabbit Enclosure ideas?

BenlynFarm

Crowing
Aug 28, 2020
972
2,705
306
Northwest Arkansas
Considering rabbits…
I don’t want cages. Instead, I would like to set up an enclosure so they have plenty of space to run around. I will of course provide small houses to close up at night. I’m considering a 10x10 dog pen or some other type of fencing. Does anyone have pictures of your outdoor enclosure setup?
 
Considering rabbits…
I don’t want cages. Instead, I would like to set up an enclosure so they have plenty of space to run around. I will of course provide small houses to close up at night. I’m considering a 10x10 dog pen or some other type of fencing. Does anyone have pictures of your outdoor enclosure setup?
I will post pictures tomorrow.
I would 100 % reccomend rabbits.
My setup is a small hutch, but then around it are fencings, about 7x12 (I think, but we have dwarf rabbits)
 
I personally think pet rabbits do best indoors, for many reasons, but when done right, outdoor enclosures can work fine.

One of the most important things is predator proofing. Just like you would with ducks or chickens, rabbit enclosures should be able to keep other animals out, and the rabbits in. Rabbits will dig, so having a hardware cloth skirt or concreate dug into the ground is important.
They'll need plenty of shade to keep them cool, especially in the summer. Rabbits can very easily die of heat stroke, so things like hidey houses, a cool ceramic tile, a roof, and of course fresh cool water is definitely a necessity.
I have considered building an outdoor enclosure to foster rabbits in because of my allergies, so I have plenty of ideas saved (all from Pinterest)
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If you keep them outdoors I recommend adopting a bonded pair so they'll keep each other company. A lot of rabbit rescues will help you choose two rabbits that would likely bond best, if they don't have a bonded pair already.

There are some things to keep in mind about keeping rabbits outdoors however.
Rabbits, being prey animals, can become spooked very easily. Even a dog running by could give a rabbit a heart attack and kill them, without a predator even touching them. And plenty of predators will try to get to them, which is why predator proofing is so important.
Another thing to be aware of is the weather outdoors. Like I've mentioned, rabbits are prone to heat stroke, even in temperatures above 75 F. They can usually tolerate cold quite well, but the heat can kill them.
And of course bonding with rabbits is much easier when they're living inside with you.

It's easy to litter train rabbits, especially if they're fixed (which should be done for many reasons), and with some bunny proofing, rabbits make great indoor pets. You can keep them in large wire dog playpens when they aren't free roaming, which is much cheaper than other housing options.

Regardless of where you choose to keep your rabbits, here's a list of things you'll need and that should be taken into account when deciding how much space they'll have.

  • Hidey houses (they prefer two entrances. Cardboard boxes work well)
  • Toys (a large variety to keep teeth down and to keep the rabbit from getting bored is important. You can make DIY ones, but avoid toys with dyes)
  • Treats (avoid pet store treats, you can use slices of apple, carrot, or banana along with herbs)
  • Food and water dishes (avoid water bottles, they are hard to clean, don't provide enough water, and are very unnatural for rabbits to drink from.)
  • A brush (though rabbits groom themselves like cats, if they ingest too much hair it will block their GI tract, which causes GI stasis and is often fatal)
  • Nail trimmers (you can have the vet do this, but it's good to have on hand)
  • A large cat sized litter box (avoid the small corner litter trays, the rabbit should be able to turn all the way around and move comfortably)
  • Litter (avoid cat litter which has clay and can kill rabbits if ingested. Paper bedding or pelleted pine litter work well)
  • Lots of hay (rabbits often eat while pooping, so providing lots of fresh hay will entice it to use the litter box)
And of course you'll need food for your rabbits. Unlimited alfalfa hay and pellets should be given to rabbits under 6 months of age. Adult rabbits should have unlimited Timothy hay, orchard grass, oat hay, or meadow hay. Along with a small amount of pellets, with any hay or grass except for Alfalfa, which is too high in calcium and protein for adults and should only be offered as a treat. Adult rabbits should have about 1/4 cup of pellets a day, per 4 pounds. If the rabbit is smaller than 4 pounds, use a smaller amount. Though if the rabbit is bigger s/he won't need any more.
About a handful of fresh vegetables for breakfast and dinner, a small amount of pellets, a small treat every now and then, along with hay (which should make up 80% of their diet), is just right for a rabbits needs.

Hopefully this helped to answer your questions. I highly recommend checking out Lennon the Bunny and 101Rabbits on YouTube for more care information, for everything on litter training, bonding, grooming, and more.
 
I personally think pet rabbits do best indoors, for many reasons, but when done right, outdoor enclosures can work fine.

One of the most important things is predator proofing. Just like you would with ducks or chickens, rabbit enclosures should be able to keep other animals out, and the rabbits in. Rabbits will dig, so having a hardware cloth skirt or concreate dug into the ground is important.
They'll need plenty of shade to keep them cool, especially in the summer. Rabbits can very easily die of heat stroke, so things like hidey houses, a cool ceramic tile, a roof, and of course fresh cool water is definitely a necessity.
I have considered building an outdoor enclosure to foster rabbits in because of my allergies, so I have plenty of ideas saved (all from Pinterest)
View attachment 3030579View attachment 3030581View attachment 3030595

If you keep them outdoors I recommend adopting a bonded pair so they'll keep each other company. A lot of rabbit rescues will help you choose two rabbits that would likely bond best, if they don't have a bonded pair already.

There are some things to keep in mind about keeping rabbits outdoors however.
Rabbits, being prey animals, can become spooked very easily. Even a dog running by could give a rabbit a heart attack and kill them, without a predator even touching them. And plenty of predators will try to get to them, which is why predator proofing is so important.
Another thing to be aware of is the weather outdoors. Like I've mentioned, rabbits are prone to heat stroke, even in temperatures above 75 F. They can usually tolerate cold quite well, but the heat can kill them.
And of course bonding with rabbits is much easier when they're living inside with you.

It's easy to litter train rabbits, especially if they're fixed (which should be done for many reasons), and with some bunny proofing, rabbits make great indoor pets. You can keep them in large wire dog playpens when they aren't free roaming, which is much cheaper than other housing options.

Regardless of where you choose to keep your rabbits, here's a list of things you'll need and that should be taken into account when deciding how much space they'll have.

  • Hidey houses (they prefer two entrances. Cardboard boxes work well)
  • Toys (a large variety to keep teeth down and to keep the rabbit from getting bored is important. You can make DIY ones, but avoid toys with dyes)
  • Treats (avoid pet store treats, you can use slices of apple, carrot, or banana along with herbs)
  • Food and water dishes (avoid water bottles, they are hard to clean, don't provide enough water, and are very unnatural for rabbits to drink from.)
  • A brush (though rabbits groom themselves like cats, if they ingest too much hair it will block their GI tract, which causes GI stasis and is often fatal)
  • Nail trimmers (you can have the vet do this, but it's good to have on hand)
  • A large cat sized litter box (avoid the small corner litter trays, the rabbit should be able to turn all the way around and move comfortably)
  • Litter (avoid cat litter which has clay and can kill rabbits if ingested. Paper bedding or pelleted pine litter work well)
  • Lots of hay (rabbits often eat while pooping, so providing lots of fresh hay will entice it to use the litter box)
And of course you'll need food for your rabbits. Unlimited alfalfa hay and pellets should be given to rabbits under 6 months of age. Adult rabbits should have unlimited Timothy hay, orchard grass, oat hay, or meadow hay. Along with a small amount of pellets, with any hay or grass except for Alfalfa, which is too high in calcium and protein for adults and should only be offered as a treat. Adult rabbits should have about 1/4 cup of pellets a day, per 4 pounds. If the rabbit is smaller than 4 pounds, use a smaller amount. Though if the rabbit is bigger s/he won't need any more.
About a handful of fresh vegetables for breakfast and dinner, a small amount of pellets, a small treat every now and then, along with hay (which should make up 80% of their diet), is just right for a rabbits needs.

Hopefully this helped to answer your questions. I highly recommend checking out Lennon the Bunny and 101Rabbits on YouTube for more care information, for everything on litter training, bonding, grooming, and more.
Thank you for all of this!! I’ll check out those YouTube channels also. We may eventually want to breed rabbits and my children will likely start 4H this year. But we definitely need them to be outside so all of your information is very helpful!
 
Ah okay I don’t know that much about rabbits yet but one thing is, if you get a hutch make sure it’s quite high off the ground, my friend had a couple wild dogs chew through the bottom of her hutch and kill her rabbit a few years ago
 
Ah okay I don’t know that much about rabbits yet but one thing is, if you get a hutch make sure it’s quite high off the ground, my friend had a couple wild dogs chew through the bottom of her hutch and kill her rabbit a few years ago
I’ll likely be building some type of small hutch houses for them to sleep in at night. They will be opened every day to a fenced pen for them to run around. The pen will also be located inside of my fenced area where my Pyrenees looks after my chickens and ducks. He does a good job at keeping things out. But I do want the hutches to be secure at night so that’s good to know!
 
I'd think a setup for multiple rabbits would take more than a day to build well....and that it would take some detailed planning and consideration before you buy the actual rabbits.
We already had cages for them, just building a better more permanent set up. Considering our set up is going in a shed that is already very well built, it won’t take long to make modifications for them. 😁
 

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