Permanant or portable?

[Qira123]

Hi,

Still looking for coop plans and have been reading a lot here. It sounds like most peoples coops are built to stay in one place is that true? I was kinda looking for plans like the BYC member, FF-EMTs Coop, in BYC, "Coop Designs". My intentions were to move it around alot, is this not such a good idea?

Thank You,
Wade...

 

[chookchick]

From what I have read here, and my experience, I would go with a "fixed" coop first. It is difficult to provide adequate run space and coop space in an easily portable tractor. Bear in mind that you should have AT LEAST 4 sq. ft. in the coop and 10 sq. ft. in the run for the happiest and healthiest chickens. My first coop was 4 by 8 with an upstairs 4 by 4 coop, and my chicks outgrew it by the time they were 2 months old. You can add a portable tractor later if you want to let a few on pasture, but I would use the "fixed" coop as a base to start with. Tractors are also nice during the day for young ones...

oh and

 

[CheerfulHeart2]

do a search on "chicken tractor" and you will find some stuff. There a folks that do like that move around tractor type.

 

[Oopoo]

I have a tractor and I love it. I get to fertilize all the yard and the hens don't beat it up too bad. Be sure to get completely moveable wheels or make a smaller coop that you can move like a wheelbarrow. I have a completely open front door, just screen. I have a page called homemade coop-tractor by Oopoo. I found that my chickens have been very healthy. I also use snow fencing and stakes to put up a moveable pen so they can stretch their wings.

 

[gsim]

Your terrain dictates whether or not it is suitable for a tractor. If so, then I would suggest a small utility trailer chassis for the coop, and a separate run. That way, you can have a much roomier run that is really lightweight . It would be easy to just drag and then the coop could be rolled to it and fastened to it. I would choose the buckle-type fastners, or go with matching screw eyes with pins that drop down into them in maybe 4 to 6 places. Then just lock down the coop at night and it does not matter if preds can get into the run or not. I would use some sort of netting over the run. I would also make the run tall enough to stand up in. For a small coop I would do bumpouts for the nest boxes to max out the floor space. Less fighting/bullying/pecking the more space they have.

A circular run can be made using 1/2" pvc pipe, 'T's, 6 ft tall 2x4 welded wire. Four 20 ft lengths can be bent into a full circle. One for base,and one for top, connected by uprights every 10 ft or so. Welded wire is placed around the completed frame and fastened to it and then netting can be put over top and fastened. An entrance door needs to be planned and incorporated into the frame. Ditto for a fastening point to the coop, opposite side. Will make a circular pen about 25 ft across. Rectangular shapes can be done too. Might be easier to put top netting on that. Expect to have a center structure for keeping the netting from sagging. Can be maybe a foot taller than sides, maybe a 2x2 with a circular piece of plywood or osb on it's top to distribute the strain on the netting and prevent a hole being poked in it.