Pictures Needed of your Broody Hen Enclosure in the Coop

[analyticalblonde]

After going broody for the sixth time since March, I have finally succumbed to my Ameraucana. I went out to my local friend/breeder who gave me 8 fertilized Swedish Flower eggs. Wizzygig, my broody hen, has been doing her motherly duty thus far (it's only been 4 days) and because of the nest box she has chosen, I will eventually have to move her and her clutch into a safer environment. There are two rows of three nesting boxes stacked - she has chosen the middlebox on the lower row but that row is 14 inches from the bottom of the coop floor and really not large enough for her and the impending hatch. I will not be moving her and her clutch until I hear pips coming from the eggs - around Day 19ish and I make the move at night when she's in a dazed sleep.

I want to keep her and any potential chicks in with the rest of the flock so the integration won't be too difficult so I need some visuals from my BYC friends of the pen that was made/used to have Momma and babies together safely while still being visually a part of the flock.

Please post your pictures and any tips you can provide...this is my first rodeo with hatching eggs naturally...all of my girls were ordered on-line and came in live.

Thank you everyone....

 

[Isaac 0]

You may try asking here.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/broody-hen-thread.496101/

 

[aart]

Sorry, you didn't get a reply sooner @analyticalblonde
I move my broodies to a sectioned off area of the coop, it has a separate run attached.
Same area I brood bator chicks in.
Other pics in this article:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/integrating-new-birds-at-4-weeks-old.72603/

When I have a broody I wait until she's been in the nest most the day and all night for 2-3 days...along with those other signs I posted.

Then I put her in the broody enclosure with fake eggs in the floor nest, she won't like being moved, but if she is truly good and broody she will settle onto the new nest within a half a day.
Then I give her fresh fertile eggs and mark the calendar.

I like them separated by wire from the flock, it's just easier all around.
No having to mark eggs and remove any additions daily, no taking up a laying nest, no going back to the wrong nest after the daily constitutional.

I remove barrier about one week after hatch. The chicks are usually safe it's the broody who has to 'fight' her way back into the pecking order...which can be quick or take a few days.
Lots of space helps for re-integration.

 

[analyticalblonde]

Sorry, you didn't get a reply sooner @analyticalblonde
I move my broodies to a sectioned off area of the coop, it has a separate run attached.
Same area I brood bator chicks in.
Other pics in this article:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/integrating-new-birds-at-4-weeks-old.72603/
View attachment 2224007

When I have a broody I wait until she's been in the nest most the day and all night for 2-3 days...along with those other signs I posted.

Then I put her in the broody enclosure with fake eggs in the floor nest, she won't like being moved, but if she is truly good and broody she will settle onto the new nest within a half a day.
Then I give her fresh fertile eggs and mark the calendar.

I like them separated by wire from the flock, it's just easier all around.
No having to mark eggs and remove any additions daily, no taking up a laying nest, no going back to the wrong nest after the daily constitutional.

I remove barrier about one week after hatch. The chicks are usually safe it's the broody who has to 'fight' her way back into the pecking order...which can be quick or take a few days.
Lots of space helps for re-integration.

Hi @aart

Quick question...Should I put her enclosure inside of the coop or can I put it outside in the secured run?

I've uploaded pictures of the secured run where we can put the enclosure to a back corner. I've also uploaded pictures of the coop and there is an area inside of the coop where we can put the enclosure...one photo shows Wizzygig in the lower-center nesting box - she's been on the nest now for two weeks by tomorrow (July 8).

Finally, my husband has fashioned the enclosure like our chicken tractor and extensions. There is an access door to one side of the enclosure so I can easily get to the waterer and feed containers as well as install a little brood box for her to finish hatching. The dimensions are 3 ft L x 3 ft H x 3 ft W. If that is too small, he can also make it 6 ft L x 3 ft H x 3 ft W.

I'd really like to have your input...

 

[JacinLarkwell]

My pheonixes hatch with the flock in wherever they feel safest. I don't seperate them.

 

[aart]

Hi @aart

Quick question...Should I put her enclosure inside of the coop or can I put it outside in the secured run?

I've uploaded pictures of the secured run where we can put the enclosure to a back corner. I've also uploaded pictures of the coop and there is an area inside of the coop where we can put the enclosure...one photo shows Wizzygig in the lower-center nesting box - she's been on the nest now for two weeks by tomorrow (July 8).

I wouldn't try to move her now, might break her broody.
I'm assuming she has eggs to hatch(without reading back)?
Birds should always be where they are safe from predators and weather.

 

[analyticalblonde]

My pheonixes hatch with the flock in wherever they feel safest. I don't seperate them.

View attachment 2231870

My pheonixes hatch with the flock in wherever they feel safest. I don't seperate them.

View attachment 2231870

My pheonixes hatch with the flock in wherever they feel safest. I don't seperate them.

View attachment 2231870

Huh....that's interesting...I was under the impression that my other girls would do harm to the new members...I'm not sure where I read this or how I came to that impression...how does this work? Do the other girls just know that the hatchlings are not a threat?

 

[analyticalblonde]

I wouldn't try to move her now, might break her broody.
I'm assuming she has eggs to hatch(without reading back)?
Birds should always be where they are safe from predators and weather.

Yes...about two weeks ago I got 8 fertilized eggs from a breeder friend of mine because I do not own a rooster and was frustrated with breaking Wizzygig, over, and over, and over, etc.

The run is secure which I'm leaning towards because even though it is more open, then the temperature will be what the temperature is outside; no additional added heat. The coop gets at least 5-7 degrees hotter inside, even though we installed a shop fan to draw the heat out...it can get to 99 degrees inside when the outside temps are 93-94 degrees and we haven't had triple-digit days yet...they are coming...which means the high can go easily go to +110 degrees inside the coop.

 

[JacinLarkwell]

I think it

Huh....that's interesting...I was under the impression that my other girls would do harm to the new members...I'm not sure where I read this or how I came to that impression...how does this work? Do the other girls just know that the hatchlings are not a threat?

it's more that the male doesn't. They have tons of space too though ( an open barn and the 20 acres around it 24/7). They interact while broody and after the chicks hatch. I'm sure the young hens have squabbles with the mama their first time, but usually they're all good.