Plans for a new coop

[krthaymp]

Disclaimer, I am not a wood worker or builder or anything like that, but my dad has (begrudgingly) agreed to help me on yet another project of mine.
So, this could actually work. I’ve got some plans roughly drawn out and thought more about it and want to put the base on castors an increase the height a foot, so 5ft tall in the back and 6ft in the front, to better accommodate a walk in door.
I do think I’ll add a small vent at the top on the wall the roosting bars are on, and each section will have its own door to separately access nesting boxes, poop board and storage.
A few things I’m not sure about:
1. How long should I make this? I don’t know how much space I’ll need exactly for the roosting bars… I think 2.5ft deep for the tray so the bars are a foot from the wall and a foot from each other.
2. Would it be best to stagger the bars or have them the same height?
3. Is the window ok being beside the bars, or best to be right in front so they are directly in a cross breeze? That will affect the ultimate length. Or I could use the top of the door for a window too.

My idea is to have storage directly when I walk in, then the roosts and nesting boxes on the left.

 

[Silkie2299781]

Not much advice, but that looks amazing!! IMO, I would stagger the roosting bars

 

[krthaymp]

Not much advice, but that looks amazing!! IMO, I would stagger the roosting bars

I’m hoping easy. My dad said the easiest thing to do is build a box and go from there, and a box I can handle. I don’t think I can handle nesting boxes, which is why I’m opting for 5gal buckets. Crates would work too. It’s a box with walls, shelves and windows. Basic framing (I think), nothing too crazy.

 

[Loving my girls]

Look forward to seeing the finished article

Go Dad Go

 

[aart]

want to put the base on castors

Why...and where will this coop be used?

an increase the height a foot, so 5ft tall in the back and 6ft in the front, to better accommodate a walk in door.

Good idea.

You're going to need more ventilation in your climate.
Do you plan on having a secure run?
How many birds are you planning for?

 

[krthaymp]

Why...and where will this coop be used?

I was originally thinking of setting the coop on cinder blocks, just to keep the wood off the ground and thought wheels may be better. I don't intend to move the coop, but should I ever need to, it would make it easier.

You're going to need more ventilation in your climate.
Do you plan on having a secure run?
How many birds are you planning for?

I have a secure hoop style run that the hen house would be attached to, on the outside. Right now I have 4 chickens, and may be adding 2-3 more max. That's 8 feet of roost for max 7 birds. I could add a third roost to the plans if y'all don't think that's quite enough.

Should I add ventilation at the bottom maybe? The top will more or less be open where the roof angles up, and I'll have a window on at least two sides... on the third side as well, if I don't turn the top of the door into open space with hardware cloth. I could also put a long, narrow window on the end with the roosts, above the level of the bars.

Another idea I had, was in addition to the windows, add port hole style holes along the bottom, or beside the windows maybe, covered with hardware cloth.

Is it ok for a window to be beside the roosts?

 

[SandyRiverChick]

Unless the coop is lightweight like a pre-fab, I don't think the Castor's will really work. If you've ever seen something like a TV stand with Castor's that has way to much weight, it caves in between Castor's so you'd have to have many Castor's to distribute the weight... My coop is a rectangle box with slanted roof like your drawing. Ventilation is in the highest point and 2 windows are at a lower point, directing on roosting chickens. This is good for hot months because I can open the windows for coolness but there is no actual draft, cross breeze because of the different open area heights. Here is a pic to better explain.... I think you're on a good start!

 

[21hens-incharge]

The casters would sink into whatever surface they're on unless they're on concrete. They will not make moving it easier in my opinion.

Sheet goods come in a 4x8 measurement. Instead of adding something to the bottom to make it tall enough to walk into it's better to use the full length of your sheets. If you make it 8 ft in the front and 7 ft at the back that would make it tall enough for even a regular sized grown up to walk in. A 4-ft wide space is difficult to get cleaning implements in as well as everything the chickens need and the ability to move around. I would recommend going with a 6x8 or even just a 6x6 for ease of tending the birds. My recommendation is also draw everything out to scale on graph paper it's much easier to fix a mistake on paper. Also go to the home improvement store put a 4x8 sheet of plywood on the floor then stand in it and imagine you have just lost 7 in because of framing on the width so you end up with roughly three and a half feet wide. Then imagine trying to move around in there to do anything. Handles on shovels and rakes are usually around 5 ft.

 

[krthaymp]

Is non pressure treated plywood ok to use if it’s sealed, say with paint or polyurethane?

 

[21hens-incharge]

A 4x8 sheet of siding is under $50. It will need painted but is already outdoor rated.

While more expensive siding will last longer even if the plywood is painted. There are lots of knot holes in plywood which are water infiltration points even if it's painted.