Please help-Problem with incubating

broodyhen2

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These are some pics on day 22 of my Jap bantam eggs. 3 pipped but sadly only one harched, the rest were all like this. Any ideas why the eggs were like this? All input appreciated
Thanks
 





























These are some pics on day 22 of my Jap bantam eggs. 3 pipped but sadly only one harched, the rest were all like this. Any ideas why the eggs were like this? All input appreciated
Thanks
Every single one looks like an early quitter, some earlier than others. We need a little more information to help you diagnose.
What kind of incubator?
What was your temp and humidity?
Your own eggs, or shipped?
With all the early quitters, that leads me to believe you had temperature spikes. I'm going to throw out a wild guess here and say Little Giant 9300?
 
Thanks for replying scflock
Its a Brinsea 20 octagon eco
Temp was 37.5 - 37.9 every time I checked. I did both a dry hatch and also followed the manufacturers instructions for humidity.
The eggs were my own Jap bantams turned daily although a few were a bit old.
The chick that hatched did have crooked feet
 
Thanks for replying scflock
Its a Brinsea 20 octagon eco
Temp was 37.5 - 37.9 every time I checked. I did both a dry hatch and also followed the manufacturers instructions for humidity.
The eggs were my own Jap bantams turned daily although a few were a bit old.
The chick that hatched did have crooked feet
Wow, in an Octagon? I'm a firm believer in those. When you say old, how old? What was your humidity dry hatching? My Octagon doesn't like anything under 40%. Was this your first hatch in it, or have you had successful hatches in it before?
 
Well as I only gave 2 of them Jap hens I kept some eggs for upwards of 2 weeks. I cant check the humidity when hatching so I either dry hatch or fill 1 channel. All my Jap hatches this year (3) have had the same results as above. Any few chicks that hatched were weak and only 1 has survived so far. I currently have both Jap eggs and Wyandotte eggs on day19 in the same incy. The Jap eggs I candled were all early deaths (pics above) bar 1. Whereas most Wyandotte eggs were fully developed bar a few clear ones, this leads me to believe the fault lies with the Japanese
Thanks
 
Oh and I had great results last year with this incubator. Its 2 years old and this year was my first hatching the Japs in it
 
Oh and I had great results last year with this incubator. Its 2 years old and this year was my first hatching the Japs in it
Ok, so maybe it is an issue with the birds. I was about to say dry didn't work in the Brinsea, but if it has worked for you in the past then that may not be the issue. I would still invest in a decent hygrometer if you could, they aren't that expensive. I find my Brinsea to be extremely stable, but I would have no idea on the humidity if I didn't have a way to measure it. I usually have to fill both channels just to get 40-45% during the first 18 days, even during the summer. If it is an issue with your flock, maybe someone with more experience in that area will chime in. I've never had that experience. 2 weeks is pushing it on collection, and I try not to go more than 10 days. Did you turn them while you were saving them, or did you keep them still? Maybe to get your flock built up, instead of trying to fill the incubator, you could see how many you can collect in 10 days and then set those
 
I have ordered a hygrometer and it should be here for my next hatch. While storing the eggs they were turned twice daily. You say filling both channels gives 40 - 45%? I must definitely try that. I will fiddle around with the hygrometer and water channels to get the humidity correct next time. Although I think it might be a genetic issue with that certain trio as they are the only ones with this problem.
Thank you for giving your time to help, it is much appreciated!
 
I have ordered a hygrometer and it should be here for my next hatch. While storing the eggs they were turned twice daily. You say filling both channels gives 40 - 45%? I must definitely try that. I will fiddle around with the hygrometer and water channels to get the humidity correct next time. Although I think it might be a genetic issue with that certain trio as they are the only ones with this problem.
Thank you for giving your time to help, it is much appreciated!
Humidity is going to vary with the time of year and your location. Here in SC, in the southern US (I'm assuming you're from somewhere else since you used celsius), the air is naturally humid in the summer, dry in the winter. In the summer, I can maintain 42% with only one channel of water. In the winter I have to fill both, and close the air vent halfway. I have to add a paper towel to the bottom to wick enough water to maintain 65% for lockdown. I say all that to say that you will have to use the hygrometer to see what works for you, but I feel very confident in recommending 40-45% humidity. It very well could be a genetic issue, but maybe next time just incubate as many fresh eggs as you can gather in 10 days or less. Once you get a few extra hens around, then you flock will grow much more rapidly. Are they Japanese bantams? Were the other eggs you incubated large fowl? If so, maybe they will need a little different incubation setup than what you have normally used. I think if you go with fresh eggs and 40-45% humidity, we can eliminate the incubation as the problem, then you can start looking at the birds
 
Yep I'm over in Ireland actually. They are Japanese bantams, the other eggs were Wyandotte bantams. I also tried the problematic Japanese eggs under a hen so we'll see how she goes. Fresh eggs and humidity check is what I'll do next.
Thanks for the advice
 

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