Predator Wounds

Matzwd - That's pretty much exactly what one of my birds butt looks like. Exactly. The one that's hobbling doesn't have the same back wounds as my Barred, but she does have all the missing chest feathers. So after what you said - yes, most likely a dog here as well. I guess thankful it could be worse because we have Fox, Eagles, Hawks, and Bears all over here.
Which one did you order? I am expecting my Spypoint Link-Evo (cellular connected like yours) to arrive on Friday. The dog that did this is penned up now, but I have some other sneaky critter lurking about now, fox maybe??, that snatched one of my girls away on Monday. Have to be certain what we're dealing with.
I got the same camera as you. The Spypoint Link Evo. It appeared to be the best "combo". Most security cameras have cell service but poor MP and distance. Trail cams seem to have the MP and distance but only a few with cell service that aren't a bazillion dollars. My camera unfortunately will not arrive until Tuesday and we are going away again this weekend, but my locks will be here today so I can at least lock it up. Also going to have someone do a driveby daily. My coop can be seen from the road so if open, easily seen.
 
My camera unfortunately will not arrive until Tuesday and we are going away again this weekend, but my locks will be here today so I can at least lock it up. Also going to have someone do a driveby daily. My coop can be seen from the road so if open, easily seen.
The bolt locks are helpful. We have them on all the coop doors, and we hook carabiners through the holes in them as a backup. Considering your circumstances, you could put combination or keyed locks through them to deter humans.
 
The bolt locks are helpful. We have them on all the coop doors, and we hook carabiners through the holes in them as a backup. Considering your circumstances, you could put combination or keyed locks through them to deter humans.
I actually purchased gun locks. They are 15" Long so figured perfect to go around edges of the doors and through the hardwire. I can't actually install them on the types of latches I have
 
Quick update. Princess Lay-A saw a vet today for her leg. Thankfully not broken and no evidence of swelling. Vet did find a puncture wound in the upper portion of her leg so that must be it. She came home with an antibiotic. SO...….I borrowed a large metal dog crate from a friend. Going to set it up IN the coop and segregate her and the other bird with the back wound, Chickira. I'm reading in a few spots best way to feed the antibiotic is in a food? Yes? They love scrambled eggs so maybe I could put it in that? I was also told by vet we cannot eat her eggs for 8 weeks after the antibiotic so I plan on leaving them in the smaller dog cage for 8 wks otherwise I'll be throwing them all away cause I don't know which ones are hers. They will be in the coop with their sisters still, but separated so should be ok - yes? For roosting I figure I can slide a board through the cage bars. My only concern is at night they can't go "in" to the coop. what can I do to replicate an enclosure so they feel safe in the cage? Let me add that they are very safe in the run itself. I have 2 1/2 ft of metal skirting all around it and about 200 six inch yard staples holding all that skirting down, so add the second layer of the dog crate and they are safe, but I want them to "feel" safe and know they normally go inside at night. Suggestions?
 
Good job getting to the vet. 8 weeks is wrong, vast majority of antibiotics are 30 days egg withdrawal, others here can validate that from FARAD. Are you saying the vet wants the hen to take the antibiotic for 4 weeks, and if you add the 4 week egg withdrawal, the length of time would total 8 weeks?
Dont segregate only because you dont know who is laying eggs. Am I understanding your intention correctly?
Segregating should be taken very seriously, and hens can actually get so stressed out it will open them up to other health concerns you will have to deal with. Eight weeks (even 30 days, even 5 days) would be a very long time to segregate, you are sure to have reintegration/pecking order problems. Roosting at night is an incredibly important part of the pecking order, so you want them all roosting together at night unless a hen is critically ill or you are breaking a broody.
Easy fix: get a really ugly red or bright pink lipstick from the drugstore. Coat the hens' bottom of their vents every day (or every other day depending when they are laying) with lipstick. When they lay an egg it will have the lipstick color on it. Some people use BluKote also, although thats an antiseptic and I wouldnt want that on my..delicate parts personally. They may not lay an egg for a while because of the stress so be prepared for that.
Is the antibiotic in pill form? SMZ-TMP 1/4 pill twice daily? For how long?
 
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Ok...so maybe don't segregate her. I'm 100% ok with that. I really don't want to. This is her "flock" so I don't want her to become an outsider. There is no pecking, or anything going on at this point so I'd like to leave her with her girls. That said, I'm with you on the lipstick (although I don't own any, I can certainly get some), but how do I get the antibiotic into her and her only? it's liquid form, not pill. and it's only 1 time a day (easy), for 7 days. she's a friendly bird but I tried getting that syringe in her beak..not happening. So if I mix it with food, how can I assure it's her getting it and not the others?
 
I have mixed it in scrambled egg before. You just need to be sure it's the right amount if egg so they eat it all. My chickens never eat a whole egg by themselves, 1/4 to 1/3 has been about right.
 

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