I feed fermented grains as well and as you said it does make the poo more solid and I also add ACV to the rain water in my 55 gallon drum that goes to the three nipple waterers.I forget what the speaker had his Doctorate in but it was not Animal Husbandry. He gave the nutrient content of manure.Unless, of course, you ferment their feeds so they can get their grains predigested and converted to something they can actually absorb. It sure would be nice if those guys talking about manure management could take a walk through my coop and note the lack of smell or flies because there is little to no undigested grain hanging around in these feces.
N P K
beef cattle 11 7 10
sheep 23 8 20
horse 12 5 9
swine 14 11 11
poultry 30 20 10
The other fact that was interesting was the carbon vs nitrogen in bedding materials for livestock. The higher the carbon the more time it takes to break down.
Legume hay 15-1
finished compost 20-1
standard hay 24/41-1
corn stalks 42-1
rye straw 82-1
sawdust 500-1
His point in all this was to show why it was good to compost manure rather than leaving piles of manure around. Run off from the piles can affect ground water and near by ponds brooks etc. His claim was that compost should hit 140* in the first weeks and get turned when it hits 100* But the best thing he had was a lean-to shelter with PVC pipe on the bottom covered with wood chips or gravel. You can then just add manure and bedding and pump air into the pipe, this will make compost