• giveaway ENDS SOON! Cutest Baby Fowl Photo Contest: Win a Brinsea Maxi 24 EX Connect CLICK HERE!

Proper methods for adding to your flock

Where approximately are you? In the south I think the above idea would work. I would add some hidden feed bowls, just a bowl, nothing fancy, but placed behind a mini wall, can be cardboard, just setup, so that a bird eating there, could not be seen eating from the main feed bowl.

Adding a bit more clutter and some roosts through out the area would help, saw horses are an idea. You need hideouts, and more use of the third dimension, height space.

If you are in the north, I would question this space.

Mrs K
 
Where approximately are you? In the south I think the above idea would work. I would add some hidden feed bowls, just a bowl, nothing fancy, but placed behind a mini wall, can be cardboard, just setup, so that a bird eating there, could not be seen eating from the main feed bowl.

Adding a bit more clutter and some roosts through out the area would help, saw horses are an idea. You need hideouts, and more use of the third dimension, height space.

If you are in the north, I would question this space.

Mrs K
I'm in the north
 
The run area is 10×13, the coop is 3×6.

Based on the usual guidelines, while your run is generous you are short of coop space beyond your existing flock. Even moreso because integration takes extra space.

Eggs are laid in the coop, they sleep and shelter in the coop, but mostly they hang out in the run.

The problem with this is that there are times when the run is not available -- for me right now it's because there is Avian Flu in my state so I have my flock locked in under cover. Crowding chickens works until it doesn't and then you may find yourself in trouble. :(

And when they get to be about 6 weeks old or so, we could place the rabbit cage in the run, and cover it with a blanket at night for a couple of weeks until they're ready to join the others. I'm thinking 2 or 3.

Unless it's truly BITTER cold where you are, you don't have to wait until 6 weeks to put the chicks out. Most, not all, but most chicks are well-feathered and ready to wean off heat by 4 weeks.

Even better, if you can brood outdoors in the coop or, since your coop is too tight for that, in the run, the integration process can begin even before chicks are weaned off the heat by letting the adults see them through the wire and get used to them.

This is the integration pen I made from a dog crate and a non-secure "playpen" I was given: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/mini-coop-or-integration-pen-from-a-large-dog-crate.76593/ It would not have been safe on it's own, but I had it inside my electric net fence.
 
Based on the usual guidelines, while your run is generous you are short of coop space beyond your existing flock. Even moreso because integration takes extra space.



The problem with this is that there are times when the run is not available -- for me right now it's because there is Avian Flu in my state so I have my flock locked in under cover. Crowding chickens works until it doesn't and then you may find yourself in trouble. :(



Unless it's truly BITTER cold where you are, you don't have to wait until 6 weeks to put the chicks out. Most, not all, but most chicks are well-feathered and ready to wean off heat by 4 weeks.

Even better, if you can brood outdoors in the coop or, since your coop is too tight for that, in the run, the integration process can begin even before chicks are weaned off the heat by letting the adults see them through the wire and get used to them.

This is the integration pen I made from a dog crate and a non-secure "playpen" I was given: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/mini-coop-or-integration-pen-from-a-large-dog-crate.76593/ It would not have been safe on it's own, but I had it inside my electric net fence.
So, you're saying there's a chance?

A lot of people online are saying newbies need to be the same size as existing flock members
 
So, you're saying there's a chance?

A lot of people online are saying newbies need to be the same size as existing flock members

Did you read the links from my first post? https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...or-adding-to-your-flock.1511032/post-25393086

I did multiple integrations of 4 to 6 week chicks last year and it went quite smoothly -- though having loads of space undoubtedly contributed to it.

This link is also very informative: https://www.backyardchickens.com/posts/21588571
 
Did you read the links from my first post? https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...or-adding-to-your-flock.1511032/post-25393086

I did multiple integrations of 4 to 6 week chicks last year and it went quite smoothly -- though having loads of space undoubtedly contributed to it.

This link is also very informative: https://www.backyardchickens.com/posts/21588571
Definitely do NOT have to be the same size. @3KillerBs linked some great posts/articles to read for good options.

I do think you’ll need a second coop. The roost should be 1ft long for each chicken.
 
Definitely do NOT have to be the same size. @3KillerBs linked some great posts/articles to read for good options.

I do think you’ll need a second coop. The roost should be 1ft long for each chicken.
I read it actually a few times, (I misread and thought that you might be referring to something else that you posted.) All of it has me so confused. It's hard to tell what's going on exactly in the pictures and in the descriptions.
 
13 x 16 makes a huge difference, yes. The first photo didn't do it justice - I was missing a full 1/3 of the width and at least one section of depth as well.

If you aren't worried about quarantine because you are hatching your own, or you have a trusted source, then yes, a second small cage could go in there to facilitate see/be seen.

My "coop" for my littles is about 11 x 4 inside the barn, with an attached run of 16 x 20. I've had as many as 20 -22 birds in there, under 12 weeks. My main run is... much larger.

Now I usually have birds into that space by 3-4 wks, and out by 8-10 wks. Unless you have very fast growing breeds, adolescents need less space (though they certainly enjoy - and are capable of destroying - much more).
 
13 x 16 makes a huge difference, yes. The first photo didn't do it justice - I was missing a full 1/3 of the width and at least one section of depth as well.

If you aren't worried about quarantine because you are hatching your own, or you have a trusted source, then yes, a second small cage could go in there to facilitate see/be seen.

My "coop" for my littles is about 11 x 4 inside the barn, with an attached run of 16 x 20. I've had as many as 20 -22 birds in there, under 12 weeks. My main run is... much larger.

Now I usually have birds into that space by 3-4 wks, and out by 8-10 wks. Unless you have very fast growing breeds, adolescents need less space (though they certainly enjoy - and are capable of destroying - much more).
The run is 10×13, the coop is 3×6. But they all huddle together and when they roost they use about a 2 foot section
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom