PVC tractor 'lock' needed for door....Help, I'm out of ideas!

[Dogfish]

This is an honest and straight forward assessment with no malice intended whatsoever. Remember that as you read.

This is one of those situations where quite honestly, you need to start over. You can salvage all or most of the hardware cloth. The PVC may have some use, but this is only suitable for a temporary structure. Very temporary.

The cable cuffs would actually be one of the strongest points in that build, except for maybe the boards around the base.

That coop isn't going to survive an attempt to get in by anything larger than a toy poodle. Don't mean to upset anybody, but it won't take any snow load, a strong wind will upset it unless the tarp up top releases first, and there is absolutely no structural integrity. No cross bracing, spans are too long between vertical supports, no horizontal supports on the gable ends.

This is one of those projects where someone will lets us know that some animal came and killed all their birds. Do yourself and your birds a favor, start over. Take a read in the predator and pest section.

I know Illinois summers are hot and muggy, but you and your birds would be better served to build a structure with real wood framing, and a real roof. Use the HW cloth for sides right now, fastened to a good structure, and build removable panels that you can attach in the fall to get your birds through your winters. You can use the existing base.

I wish you the best of luck.

 

[Farmer_Dan]

about 9 inches of velcro

 

[Dogfish]

Looking at it, one thing you could do to give it more structural integrity is to cut down the sides.

The height serves no purpose, except for you, and that is where a lot of the issues with that structure come from. Make the peak 4' tall at the most. That might mean just using the gable section only. It would solve a number of issues. Add some "T's" and cross supports for the roof. You would have fewer issues when you move it with a lower center of gravity.

 

[Beekissed]

Read closer, folks...it's just a chicken tractor not a coop.

I'm sure it is built primarily for giving the chooks some fresh grass and sunshine and not for unsupervised and longterm living. For a first attempt it ain't bad and they have the general idea, just not the practicality of experience. Good tips about structure and safety given here and, if implemented, should improve the performance of the tractor even with light usage.

This tractor will be difficult to move without compromising the frame and I agree with getting it lower to the ground and with a sturdier frame. Live and learn...the fun is in the learning!

 

[Life is Good!]

Thank you - everyone's comments help, in one way or another.

Yes, this is a PORTABLE chicken run - we've got 2acres of open field grass (no hiding spots just about anywhere in the middle!). As my chicks are just 7 or 8wks old, I don't feel comfortable leaving them to forage un-attended - hawks abound here. Yes, I move this to where I'm working (on a fence - 440' of fencing - yeesh!), put the chicks inside for a couple hours of sunshine. Then take them to their coop for the late afternoon/evening. It's a good life! They keep me company (or distract me with their antics!) while I work outdoors.

No, this is NOT a permanant run in any way. Yes, my 12yo son and I move this quite easily - there's a strap on the wood base that I can pull by myself, but prefer to 'train up' the next generation (whether or not they're willing!). So between the two of us, we can pull it around the yard quite easily, as long as the grass isn't too long, in which case, my two sons (12 and 9) and I can lift it up and walk it to where it needs to go next.

Yes, we will be building a 'winterized' run for the chicks - come late summer. Right now is planting time 'round here. Then fence building. Then permanent run building - yes predator proof (hardware cloth 2' down and out - strong supports overhead to keep snow load on the roof, not the chickens!). We've got our priorities, as all families must. Thank you for your input regarding a winterized run. We'll face that once the fence is installed. Fence has been 4yrs in the making - just three more nearly dead box-elder trees to fell and chop up for winter use - that's two full weekends worth of work there!

Pharm girl - I love these clips, but not for this application (have 'em on the waterer - quick load on and off to change water! Adjustable so as chicks grow, remove clips as needed - note to self, DO NOT drop in bedding, they disappear!)

Farmer Dan - I thought about velcro...decided against it at this time - it's rainy and the plastic type velcro might not hold up as intended.

Dogfish - GREAT idea! That's the winner in this category. Now, to see which hardware store carries these clips!

Beekissed - thank you for the defense. You're right on the money! Although I'm not sure the turn-buckle will work well long term - I've seen the screws back themselves out on turnbuckles, so that'd not be my first option. Liking the clips that Dogfish recommended.

You all are amazing folks! Thank you so much for the input and suggestions! Yes, I know another hardware cloth structure is in my future (did I mention my disdain of zip ties?!)...but for now, this works for my little chicks. We 'decorate' it when it moves so every day is different - food, water, treats, logs to clip upon and a long section of box-elder to 'roost' upon. They love it! That's why I built it. That's why I'll build more. Eventually....

As for the fence....well, anyone want to come stretch a field fence with us?!

 

[Beekissed]

I LOVE zipties! Built a whole sheep shed held together with nothing but zipties. It withstood horrible strong winds all winter long and didn't budge. Great attitude, LIG! Can't wait to see what you build next time!

 

[perchie.girl]

How about a handle on the adjoining jam at the same height and run a velcro strap through them both. Dont worry about glue. Make the strip about a foot long then fasten hook and loop back to back so you have hook on one side and loop on the other side. Now you can wrap the whole thing around the handles several times for a secure seal.

I use this arrangement to keep my harness in order when I put it away... Believe me it WILL hold up.

 

[arthurpete]

Quote:
This..

i started out with a pvc door on my pvc framed run. It was flimsy and served as a weak point in an overall well built tractor. It would be a shame to waste the time and money on hardware cloth only to have the door as your weak point. I had to scrap my door after is was assembled and frame it out of wood. This sounds like an ordeal but it really took just a few hours and i am much more satisfied in the overall quality and safety. I also had a similar setup as you where my base frame was wood and the walls are pvc. Just frame up from the bottom and it should be fine. I planed down some 2x4's into 3 1x1.25's to save on some $$.

Alternatively, you could cut a one size bigger pvc pipe in half, glue it to the wall frame and then have it catch the door pvc, then use a turnbuckle. This would keep it flush like you have it. Not sure how safe it would be but its an option.

Good luck

 

[patandchickens]

Really, all you would minimally have to do to refit with a wood frame would be to remove the two vertical pvc pieces of doorjamb and replace them with 2x4s (or even 2x2s or 1xwhatevers, if this is not meant to be heavy-duty predatorproof). You can leave the horizontal parts of doorjamb as they are (pvc). Honestly you could just 'sew' the wood in with wire or heavy baler twine or something like that, or screw it onto the hardwarecloth using screws with large washers or screwing thru a batten of some sort.

Yes, I realize this leaves the vertical parts of the doorjamb not physically connected to the horizontal (top and bottom) parts... but hardware cloth is rigid enough that *it won't matter*, for a day tractor like this. And it makes it super easy to do. And won't add much at all to the total weight of the tractor.

In fact that might be ALL you need to do, b/c then the doorjamb (door frame) won't bow at all, and you can easily put one or two screw-eyes into the wood for a latch to latch onto.

I would estimate it should take less than thirty minutes, even if your pvc is solvent-welded together and has to be hacksawed apart

Pat