Questions about broodiness

Harmony Fowl

Crowing
6 Years
Jul 17, 2017
647
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Virginia
I have some questions about broodiness as I try to figure out what place it might have in my egg and chicken production setup. I have six older pullets, but none have yet gone broody since beginning to lay in late summer, and my other birds are far too young. My young birds are a wide mix of things, however, so I expect broodiness in the future from someone and I'm trying to get a sense of how I can use it. Bear with me if these are super duh questions, but most of the time I read about people with broody hens who don't want them to be, so these aren't the questions they ask.

When a hen goes broody, when she sits on a nest and refuses to leave, she has already stopped laying and is now trying to incubate a clutch, right? And some will do this even if there are few or no eggs in the nest?

Even if she has no eggs at all, a hen doesn't remain broody forever, does she? It's just that it can be weeks of no eggs and that's not desirable for someone who wants eggs from her and does not want chicks. Right?

And a couple more practical questions.

Does the hen know or care how long she sits? If I see a hen go broody and order eggs online, they take several days to get to me, then I put them under her, assuming she is not allowed to keep her own eggs, does it matter that she will end up sitting longer than 21 days? Also the reverse. If she begins to sit and I already have eggs in the incubator on day 15 or whatever, will she still accept chicks if they hatch when she has been sitting for only a few days?
 
When a hen goes broody, when she sits on a nest and refuses to leave, she has already stopped laying and is now trying to incubate a clutch, right? And some will do this even if there are few or no eggs in the nest?
Yes, and yes.

Even if she has no eggs at all, a hen doesn't remain broody forever, does she? It's just that it can be weeks of no eggs and that's not desirable for someone who wants eggs from her and does not want chicks. Right?
No, she won't stay broody for ever. usually it's 3 - 4 weeks.

Does the hen know or care how long she sits? If I see a hen go broody and order eggs online, they take several days to get to me, then I put them under her, assuming she is not allowed to keep her own eggs, does it matter that she will end up sitting longer than 21 days? Also the reverse. If she begins to sit and I already have eggs in the incubator on day 15 or whatever, will she still accept chicks if they hatch when she has been sitting for only a few days?
If she stays broody too long she will starve. She might stay broody long enough. I would have a backup plan incubator for if she gives up before they hatch.

I don't know about the last question, I've never had the chance to try it.
 
Do not let a hen stay broody unless you intend to give her fertile eggs to hatch. The sooner you intervene to alter her broody hormones, the better it will be for her, and the sooner she will return to laying eggs.

IMO, you can't "cause" a hen to go broody.

If you do intend to let a broody hen set a clutch of eggs: Don't do so unless you have the space to raise chicks, are willing to bear the responsibility for the chicks, have a realistic exit plan for any cockerels (plan on at least 60% cockerels from the hatch) and are willing and able to cull any defective chicks that might hatch.

If all of the above fit your game plan, then: when she has been sitting the nest 24/7 for 3 days (including night time) then you can mark a clutch of eggs and give them all to her on the same day. It's best if you block all other hens from access to her and her nest. Sometimes "nest and egg fights" ensue, resulting in broken or soiled eggs. It's also possible that an other hen will drive a broody off her nest, or she may get confused, and return to the wrong nest, resulting in her clutch getting cold and dying. You also don't want any new eggs to enter the clutch that she's sitting on. Staggered hatches, or late entries will result in abandoned eggs, and decreased hatch rate.
 
Do not let a hen stay broody unless you intend to give her fertile eggs to hatch. The sooner you intervene to alter her broody hormones, the better it will be for her, and the sooner she will return to laying eggs.

IMO, you can't "cause" a hen to go broody.

If you do intend to let a broody hen set a clutch of eggs: Don't do so unless you have the space to raise chicks, are willing to bear the responsibility for the chicks, have a realistic exit plan for any cockerels (plan on at least 60% cockerels from the hatch) and are willing and able to cull any defective chicks that might hatch.

If all of the above fit your game plan, then: when she has been sitting the nest 24/7 for 3 days (including night time) then you can mark a clutch of eggs and give them all to her on the same day. It's best if you block all other hens from access to her and her nest. Sometimes "nest and egg fights" ensue, resulting in broken or soiled eggs. It's also possible that an other hen will drive a broody off her nest, or she may get confused, and return to the wrong nest, resulting in her clutch getting cold and dying. You also don't want any new eggs to enter the clutch that she's sitting on. Staggered hatches, or late entries will result in abandoned eggs, and decreased hatch rate.
Thank you, yes, all that is part of the game plan. I was thinking that when it comes to birds I want to be a part of a particular flock, it’s easiest if they are hatched into that flock, though I know from experience now that introducing already hatched chicks isn’t the end of the world. It’s just that I don’t see wanting a broody to hatch her own eggs, but others I decide on. Not knowing who will go broody or when, I’m trying to get a sense of how her state of broodiness can be managed to meet my goals. I’m thinking I will allow a hen to hatch her own eggs once this spring before I give anyone expensive shipped eggs to try with, just to make sure this is really going to work and to test out my setup to see if it’s sufficient.
 
It's also helpful to have an incubator ready, "just in case". One can easily be built with recycled "bits and pieces" and a thermostat that you can purchase for less than $20.oo. If you have an incubator handy, you are prepared if something happens mid way through the incubation period, so that you can intervene, and save the clutch.
 

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