Questions about whether or not to build a tractor and advice on it...

[fmernyer]

So I'm thinking a chicken tractor for various reasons. I like that I don't have
to change any bedding. I like that they can scrounge around and get some
ticks/bugs and still be safe (although I want them to forage free, too). I like
that they can scratch at and hopefully renew some grass in our yard (or not -
we're doing fine killing it all by ourselves).

SO NOW....I have to think about the plans...I'm not very handy and my husband is
sorta handy but doesn't have a lot of time and I *refuse* to pay out of pocket
for materials we can dig up in our yard or on craigslist...

I'm thinking a simple A-frame design. But I have a few questions:

1. I hear 2-3 sq ft per chicken inside and 4-5 sq ft outside...So should my
tractor be at least 12 sq ft of covered space and 24 sq ft of outdoor space? (I
have 6 chicks)

2. I want to use it as a permanent coop. Am I crazy? Is this done? Should I
alter the dimensions if its going to be their only home?

3. How many nest boxes should I put in there for 6 chicks? Are 3 enough?

4.Do they need to be fancy? I noticed the TSC had nest boxes that were little
more than L shaped boxes but I know when we raised cockatiels they had a
completely covered box. Are the L shaped boxes okay?

5. Do I need to make the indoor space larger to accommodate the nest boxes or
can they be included in the dimensions I mapped out? (perhaps using the high
end of the dimensions = 18 sq ft for six birds?)

or finally 6. Am I crazy for trying to build a tractor for 6 birds?? A conservative size would be 36 sq ft which is entirely too large for me to cart around (we don't actually have a *tractor* to drag it on a daily basis). In my situation should I just build a permanent coop and put up with the litter changes?


Er. Am I missing anything?

Either way - thanks for all the help!!!

~Dawn

 

[Scooter&Suzie]

So I'm thinking a chicken tractor for various reasons. I like that I don't have
to change any bedding. I like that they can scrounge around and get some
ticks/bugs and still be safe (although I want them to forage free, too). I like
that they can scratch at and hopefully renew some grass in our yard (or not -
we're doing fine killing it all by ourselves).

SO NOW....I have to think about the plans...I'm not very handy and my husband is
sorta handy but doesn't have a lot of time and I *refuse* to pay out of pocket
for materials we can dig up in our yard or on craigslist...

I'm thinking a simple A-frame design. But I have a few questions:

1. I hear 2-3 sq ft per chicken inside and 4-5 sq ft outside...So should my
tractor be at least 12 sq ft of covered space and 24 sq ft of outdoor space? (I
have 6 chicks) Most people say 4 square feet inside, but I find 2-3 works fine, as long as you have a bigger run space. I think 18 square feet in the inside and 24 sq feet in the outside should work.

2. I want to use it as a permanent coop. Am I crazy? Is this done? Should I
alter the dimensions if its going to be their only home? I know plenty of people who always have their hens living in their chicken tractor - I don't think it is crazy at all, as long as predators can't get to them.

3. How many nest boxes should I put in there for 6 chicks? Are 3 enough? You are supposed to have 1 nesting box for every 4 hens, plus an extra one. So yes, you would want 3 nesting boxes for 5-8 hens.

4.Do they need to be fancy? I noticed the TSC had nest boxes that were little
more than L shaped boxes but I know when we raised cockatiels they had a
completely covered box. Are the L shaped boxes okay? I've seen people use kitty litter containers. I am even using a big cardboard box for my broody hen. Hens prefer the nesting box to be as private as possible, so a completely covered box might be best.

5. Do I need to make the indoor space larger to accommodate the nest boxes or
can they be included in the dimensions I mapped out? (perhaps using the high
end of the dimensions = 18 sq ft for six birds?) Since the chickens won't be living in the nest boxes, yes, make the space a bit larger. 18 sq feet is just about right for your hens, maybe add a bit more for the boxes. I think you could get away without making it larger if you had to.

or finally 6. Am I crazy for trying to build a tractor for 6 birds?? A conservative size would be 36 sq ft which is entirely too large for me to cart around (we don't actually have a *tractor* to drag it on a daily basis). In my situation should I just build a permanent coop and put up with the litter changes? No, I think you could make a tractor for 6 birds. My friends have a tractor for 6 birds (or is it 5?).


Er. Am I missing anything?

Either way - thanks for all the help!!!

~Dawn

My answers are in green

 

[Jaxon4141]

I have a system that is movable that my chickens stay in year round. It's not a tractor, more of a chicken tunnel. The only hard part in building one is the coop. I use 2"x4"x60" 12.5 gauge galvanized welded wire fencing. Each section is 5'x5'x2' and weigh about 45 pounds. Each section butts up to the next and are clipped together with fabric clips use for hanging curtains in greenhouses. I use my chickens to work over bed in my garden before I plant and after I'm done using a bed. When put together they look like this.

The runs are very easy to make, taking about 45 minutes to put together using a wire cutter, some zip ties, and hog ring.
This coop at the back will easily hold six chickens. The setup pictured here has five run units and one coop or about 175 sq. ft. of space. If this would work for you there are more pictures in my default photo album.

 

[applefalls]

We built an A frame tractor for our eight chickens. It turned out to be much heavier than we could easily pull around. For that reason, and because it has no protection from critters digging under it at night, we chose to keep the tractor inside a well-fenced garden plot. (see pic of when they first moved in)
One part of our A frame opens like a door and we let the chickens into their fenced garden every morning, locking them back in the tractor at night.
The tractor gets moved to a different section of the garden plot (usually only moved by a few feet this way or that way) every month or so.
We have three of these fenced garden plots in our yard and grow vegetables in the two plots where the chickens are not housed. The tractor is always moved to a new garden plot after the last vegetables have been picked in the fall. Since it is so heavy, that move requires my husband and I both.

The chickens always follow the squash garden, the squash garden follows the tomato garden, and the tomato garden follows the chickens in a circle or 'rotating crops'.

 

[Purdy]

I have built several chicken tractors
Most of them are not as movable as on would think.
wheels are always a problem go flat or sinking into the ground.
I stop putting wheels on chicken tractors. I make the dragable
the bigger chicken tractors I move with 2 or 3 inch PVC pipe

 

[applefalls]

I have built several chicken tractors
Most of them are not as movable as on would think.
wheels are always a problem go flat or sinking into the ground.
I stop putting wheels on chicken tractors. I make the dragable
the bigger chicken tractors I move with 2 or 3 inch PVC pipe

How do you move the tractor with PVC pipe? I'm curious and I've love to find an easier way to move mine.

 

[Purdy]

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you.
Anyway. I use 3 or 4 pieces of PVC pipe 2 , 2 1/2 or 3inch. Most of the coops I build are for resale as hobby builder.
I build the coops in my garage and then move over 200ft until they are sold.
The large coop are about 8ft wide and 14 or 18 foot long and i guess they weigh about 1000 + LBS.
with two people moving the pipe and one pusher you can move just about any where.
Do not cut the pipes, keep the 10 foot long so you will be able to steer it from left to right.