Raising Guinea Fowl 101

I am getting guineas in a couple days. I am getting four which is not enough I realize but I can only fit so many birds in my vehicle and I’m picking up chickens the same day so I will have to take what I can get! I am planning on keeping them in a barn stall for a few weeks—I don’t mind if they sleep in trees but we do have a bobcat that I’ve lost chickens to so I’m a little nervous about that. The barn stall is plenty big for four but if I like them I will get more or let a broody hen hatch some for me. If I keep them in the barn for a couple weeks and feed them in the evening will they stay near the barn or should I do the full six weeks and keep them in the barn at night forever?
 
I am getting guineas in a couple days. I am getting four which is not enough I realize but I can only fit so many birds in my vehicle and I’m picking up chickens the same day so I will have to take what I can get! I am planning on keeping them in a barn stall for a few weeks—I don’t mind if they sleep in trees but we do have a bobcat that I’ve lost chickens to so I’m a little nervous about that. The barn stall is plenty big for four but if I like them I will get more or let a broody hen hatch some for me. If I keep them in the barn for a couple weeks and feed them in the evening will they stay near the barn or should I do the full six weeks and keep them in the barn at night forever?
Guineas need a lot more room than chickens need. If your barn stall is big enough for 4 chickens, it is most likely not big enough for the guineas.

There is nothing wrong with letting a chicken hatch guinea eggs but it is not a good idea to let a chicken raise guiinea keets. The imprinting that happens prevents the guineas from understanding that chickens are not guineas once they grow up.

Guiineas have entirely different instincts than any other poultry. While raising them with chickens may seem like everythinmg is fine, the problems normally kick in once the first breeding system kicks in. The chickens do not understand the races and chases or the attacks from behind with the feather pulling and feather breaking. They also do not know how to show submission in a manner that guineas understand so the attacks keep up.

If you have a bobcat around, letting the guineas sleep in trees will be a death sentence. They are extremely vulneerable to predators at night especially if they are on hidden nests.

If you want to keep the guineas alive, you will have to have a secure coop for them and have them iin the coop at night. Guiineas can be trained to go in the coop in the evening by using treats or by first training them to be herded. I trained my guineas to be herded and would herd them into the coop every evening.
 
If your barn stall is big enough for 4 chickens, it is most likely not big enough for the guineas.
The barn stall is probably 8’x12’. I’m estimating though. It’s at least 10’ from floor to ceiling and there are two roosts running the length of it.
There is nothing wrong with letting a chicken hatch guinea eggs but it is not a good idea to let a chicken raise guiinea keets. The imprinting that happens prevents the guineas from understanding that chickens are not guineas once they grow up.
Ok this helps. If I get more adult guineas later do I need to integrate them slowly like chickens? I’m sure all this info is in this thread somewhere but I am in a time crunch 😆
If you have a bobcat around, letting the guineas sleep in trees will be a death sentence.
That’s what I’m thinking because I’ve lost two game hens and a rooster to it. My husband seems to think we can just get guineas, throw them out in the yard and they will be fine. 🙄

I guess I will keep them in the barn the full six weeks before I let any of them out to explore. Hopefully that will get them to come back along with some snacks at night.

I read somewhere having a light on will help them roost up at night. My chickens roost up before sunset. Do guineas not do the same?
 
If I get more adult guineas later do I need to integrate them slowly like chickens?
Guineas need to be introduced via the see but no touch method. Once the attacks at the wire stop, you can allow the guineas to be together. There will be pecking order squabbles.

It is best to not do the introductions during breediing season.

Getting adult guineas is the only way to get guineas that you know the sex.

It is better now with numerous sites offering DNA sexing from either blood or feather samples. The downfall is the cost.
I read somewhere having a light on will help them roost up at night.
The light helps if you are late getting them put up for the night. If you wait too late to put them in for the night they are really bad about entering a dark space. I always put mine up while there was still plenty of light available.

On their own, they tend to got to "roost" later than chickens.

When dealing with guineas it is best to think of them as guineas and not what you would expect from chickens. They really do have entirely different instincts than any other poultry.
 
Guineas need to be introduced via the see but no touch method. Once the attacks at the wire stop, you can allow the guineas to be together. There will be pecking order squabbles.

It is best to not do the introductions during breediing season.

Getting adult guineas is the only way to get guineas that you know the sex.

It is better now with numerous sites offering DNA sexing from either blood or feather samples. The downfall is the cost.

The light helps if you are late getting them put up for the night. If you wait too late to put them in for the night they are really bad about entering a dark space. I always put mine up while there was still plenty of light available.

On their own, they tend to got to "roost" later than chickens.

When dealing with guineas it is best to think of them as guineas and not what you would expect from chickens. They really do have entirely different instincts than any other poultry.
Thank you! This helps a lot! I am getting adults—2 male and 2 female. I will start with these and if I get more I will wait until fall. I have a big chicken tractor (10x3) that works well for introductions so I can get some juvenile guineas in the fall and house them there until they are ready to go in with the big ones. I will hopefully have a better handle on guineas by then because it is hard to think of them as not chickens right now 😆 Everything I learned raising chickens I had to learn the hard way so I imagine this will be a similar learning curve but hopefully a fun one! I will be back with more questions in the coming weeks I’m sure because this thread has been more helpful than anything else I found online.
 
Thank you! This helps a lot! I am getting adults—2 male and 2 female. I will start with these and if I get more I will wait until fall. I have a big chicken tractor (10x3) that works well for introductions so I can get some juvenile guineas in the fall and house them there until they are ready to go in with the big ones. I will hopefully have a better handle on guineas by then because it is hard to think of them as not chickens right now 😆 Everything I learned raising chickens I had to learn the hard way so I imagine this will be a similar learning curve but hopefully a fun one! I will be back with more questions in the coming weeks I’m sure because this thread has been more helpful than anything else I found online.
It is easier to introduce additional guineas to a small group than to a large group.

It is helpful to have obstacles and hiding places since guineas can be really nasty to each other.

It does require a large group of guineas to have proper flock dynamics.
 
When we first got guineas, my husband thought like yours. After the trauma of losing a lot of birds in a matter of minutes, they now have the Fort Knox of runs/coop. So let's back up..
Most chickens & keets are sold at hatch. Not sure what your arrangement is, but that means a whole lot of babies in basically a shoe box. Have you special arrangements that you're getting birds >4 wks old? Otherwise, you'll
a. Have plenty of room in your car, and
b. Need to have them in a heated brooder for 4-6 weeks,depending on your, them, the temp outside, etc.
After that, yes, they need to be shut in their coop to learn this is home & to return there every evening. I'm a bit more hands on & home with them, so mine get to come out during the day with me while I'm out, and hustled back in when I'm done being out with them regardless of the time. But they have to learn to be inside before sundown.
They will not know to stay near the barn,nor have anyway to defend themselves from your bobcat, a raccoon, a hawk, an owl, a passing car,a dog, etc etc etc.
Guinea fowl have mono vision (see out of ine eye at a time), & can't see in the dark. They are easy prey in trees at night, bc they can't see, so can't fly.. An owl's flight is silent & deadly. If a raccoon is in the tree, the most a guinea can do is side step on the branch before being attacked.
Watch a few videos of guineas chasing & fighting-that's how they "play". Chickens will never understand that, & end up hurt, dead or neurotic if housed together.
Try to get more now..,so much easier than trying to integrate with older guineas later.
 

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