Roof over Coop and Run and/or Ventilation

Where there is a will, there is a way! Having done, modified, redone, modified more, and redoing again, I know how much work and frustration (and sometimes expense) is involved, exspecially when you are trying to do it with birds already living in it. The better you can do it the first time, the happier everyone will be! But even the best of plans often need modification once it's in real world use. Best of luck, I'm sure in the end, it will be good. It's a learning curve, just like so many other things. The more of others stuff you look at and read about, the more information and idea's you have to work with.
 
Anyone have suggestions on covering part of this run. Winter coming thinking it my be wise to partially cover. Have some heavy duty vinyl used on bill boards. Run already at a slant. Center post is 3 ft higher than the rest. Anyone see problems with just draping over and securing. Vinyl is 10×23
 

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If snow isn't an issue, then you would only need to consider winds. It will need to be secured well enough to hold up in wind. And if you put it up before leaves have fallen, then the weight of those, particularly if they get wet, could be substantial. You might need to put some cross framing on the top for stability under it and to ensure the water runs off rather than puddles and stretches the vinyl.
 
If snow isn't an issue, then you would only need to consider winds. It will need to be secured well enough to hold up in wind. And if you put it up before leaves have fallen, then the weight of those, particularly if they get wet, could be substantial. You might need to put some cross framing on the top for stability under it and to ensure the water runs off rather than puddles and stretches the vinyl.
Yea there's a pretty good slant to it. Run off will be fine. Snow? NE Ar. Ya never know.
Thanks
 
I personally prefer metal, but I know it's gotten really expensive. :hit
I have lost really well secured tarps in thunderstorms, a small tear is all it takes.
 
NOTE: Edited for Typos and Clarity - 10-2-23 3:45PM CST. Changes are denoted in red.

Hi all,

Preemptive thanks for all the collective wisdom as I have hit a bit of a head scratcher and find myself walking to the ledge. I am new to chickens (currently 0) and am in the process of putting everything together. I have a question about how to deal with the heat.

Background Info:
Location: In/around Houston Tx
Average temps by month (all in *F): Jan - 60/45, Feb - 64/48, March - 70/55, April - 76/61, May - 83/68, June - 88/74, July - 91/76, Aug. - 91/76, Sept - 86/71, Oct. 79/63, Nov. - 70/54, Dec. 63/48.
Temp Note: This season has been extremely hot with all of July and Aug having temps of 95+ with a preference for 100-110 and some days above 115 with heat index. While I cannot say for certain, I think for most of July and all of Aug. we did not have a day with the heat index below 100* (Why did I leave Montana again?)

Coop Info:
Selected Coop - https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-...in-Storage-Shed-Gable-Storage-Shed/1001052346
Dimensions as constructed: 8'x8'x9' high
The shed has been placed on an 8'x8' wood base and the inside is nearly complete. I am down to ventilation and the coop door. (More to come on ventilation later)
The shed will be secured to the ground using ground anchors used to secure mobile homes to the ground (have some laying around) and attached directly to the 4x4s used to make the base.
NOTE: The coop will be placed within and entirely contained by the run described below

Run Info:

20'x20' chain link fence with (1) 2' of hardware cloth on the bottom of the run, (2) 2' of hardware cloth laid on the ground and staked in place with either homemade stakes, bent rebar, or store bought stakes, and (3) the top will be (a) 1/2 covered in avian netting and (b) 1/2 covered with either a tarp or R panel metal roofing material.
NOTE: Chain link fence was selected because of a business connection leading to a significantly lower price than is typical for something of this size and the ability to repurpose it later should the need/desire arise.
NOTE: I am electing to not burry the portions of the hardware cloth as it is my intent to move the run very 1-2 years to allow the planting of a garden in the old run location (i.e. Move the run in September of 2024, allow the ground to "cool" and add compost, plant as appropriate in 2025 and 2026, then repeat by moving to the previous location. I have access to tractors and other equipment to achieve this despite the weight of the coop. It is my belief this will provide the chickens with more natural insect life by allowing the ground to recover and will provide me with more fertile ground for a no/minimal till garden).
NOTE: My questions below relate to roofing over the coop itself. The roof I am describing here would be a near flat roof that abuts the coop but does not go over the peak of the roof or, at most, drapes over the top of the roof if a tarp is selected. The following is added for clarity: The base on which the coop sits has 4" of space before the start of the coop on both the left and right side. The roof I discuss here would be built by installing flanges in this space and placing in pipe approx. 1-2" higher than the walls of the run to allow drainage, with the roof of the coop shedding its own water.
NOTE: If possible and feasible, it is my intent to later construct a rain water collection system.

NOTE: The witnessed predators in my area (meaning I have seen them and not to say others don't exist) include (1) skunks, (2) hawks, (3) non-stray dogs, (4) snakes (copperheads). Again, this is not to say racoons, cats, or similar are not in my area, merely that I have not seen them.

Location Info:

The hen house will be placed in an area that currently receives near full shade from sunrise until ~10:00-11:00 AM, partial shade from 11:00 AM - 1:00 PM and full sun from 1:00 PM through sunset.
The predominant wind in summer will be from the rear left corner as you face the door.
The rear of the coop will nearly abut my neighbors 8' fence and minimal to no wind will come from this direction.

Ventilation Plan:
(1) At the highest points on the left and right wall (as you face the doors) cut slots measuring 1' High by 3' wide. I expect to be able to cut 2 per side given the internal structure of the coop but need to look at it more closely to be certain. I plan on framing the window to allow me install some form of rain/drip guard and to allow any/all vents to be closed should a hurricane come.
(2) Remove the "windows" from the door.
Note: All will be covered with 1/2" hardware cloth for safety.
(3) Depending on the answers to the below questions, the location of the automatic door will be either on the front (pedestrian door) left or right of the coop.

Number of Chickens:
I intend to start with not less than five (5) Rhode Island Reds or Leghorns (selected for their heat tolerance with strong consideration for their laying ability). However, as my house burns through 30+ eggs a week and typically closer to 45+, this will likely grow even without considering the natural tendency to want more birds (A general review of the Forum has told me to expect to add even if you have met your egg production goals.)
Note: I am open to other more heat tolerant breeds if there are suggestions given the volume of eggs I am seeking

Other Relevant Information:
(1) I do not have the ability to get "shore power" to the coop so anything electrical will need to be run via solar which the coop location is not conducive to.
(2) I am a classic over thinker if that could not already be gathered.
(3) In terms of "trade" skills, I am slightly lower than reasonable in terms of my carpentry skills, reasonable at welding mild steel (though no one would pay me to work with wood or metal) and, through friends, family and business connections, have access to a majority of tools needed to complete common construction tasks.

Concern:
My chief concern is not wanting to kill any of the chickens because of the heat we receive. I realize ventilation will be key but I am concerned anything beyond removing two walls would not provide enough ventilation given out past summer (100+ most days) given the coop is resin and dark in color.

Questions:
(1) Given the above information, is the ventilation I am considering adequate?
(2) Given the above information, should I consider entirely removing the manufacturer installed vents front and rear to allow air flow from all directions, keeping in mind the rear of the coop will likely receive little to no wind?
(3) Should I give consideration to trying to design a roof to cover the portion of the run the coop will be under? Note: This would require the peak of the roof covering the coop to be a minimum of 9' which can be accomplished buy using either (A) 120* "High Peak" chain link fence connectors. However, this would lead to needing a tarp and/or R Panel that is 11.5' long per side of the roof. (10' of run, 5.77' of rise, 60* angle to peak) or (B) a 90* coupler and needing a trap and/or R Panel that is 14' long per side of the roof. (10' of run, 10' of rise, 45* angle to peak)
(4) Am I overreacting to the heat issue and walking to the proverbial ledge when, in fact, there is not a ledge?

My Proposed Solutions:
Excluding the solutions which may exist depending upon the answers to the above questions, I have come up with the following solutions
(1) Remove the roof of the shed, deck with treated plywood, and cover with R Panel in the style of a flat roof, thereby lowering the overall height of the coop and making the need for a higher peaked roof on the run less. NOTE: this came to me while I was driving and I have not been able to measure to determine how much lower this would make the coop
(2) placing the coop outside of the run and using the extra material around the base to frame up for a flat roof over the top of the coop. NOTE: This would be ugly as all get out but I have most of the scrap steel I would need to accomplish this excepting the R Panel.

Other Notes:
(1) I will post pictures of the build so far when my phone decides it wants to turn on again
(2) Forgive the overly lengthy post, I am an Attorney by trade and have come to learn, it is much easier if the person/people trying to help you have as much information as possible from the beginning in an effort to save time.
(3) I do not like working with metal roofs and would prefer to use a tarp, however the life expectancy of a tarp likely make it cost prohibitive given the weather we commonly receive.
I would consider a shed roof (one plane, the north edge being the better part of a foot higher than the south, made of plywood, covered with plastic and planted with sod and wildflowers. That would be nice and shady while giving your bees and butterflies a treat).
 

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