Roofing debacle!

We used Tufftex panels attached to the rafters with roofing nails with neoprene washers.

The panels overlap so there is no leakage.

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Frankly OSB is a terrible product for most applications where there is any humdity or chance of contact with water. It should never be used in an exterior application, kitchen, nor bathroom. I won't have it in any structure I own period, not even sub-floors in bedrooms. Beyond it's awful response to moisture it is heavy and does not endure wear well. Better to use even 3/8" exterior ply if you must have a solid roof, but personally I prefer attaching purlins to the rafters and then going with one of the lightweight roofing panels such as the Tuftex.

GeorgiaGail has posted a number of pictures of our coops, both of which employed the clear tuftex panels. We used clear because with our shade heat is a minor issue despite living in the deep south. It also comes in white and a few other colors.
 
Quote:
EPDM and a family of similar polymers is what you are refering to. Great stuff in the proper application, but can be heavy and hard to work with, especially to the un-initiated. I have used it several times as a water garden liner. When applying it to a substraight one most be careful not to end up with glue bulges and air pockets. It was developed for use on flat and nearly flat roof structures. Corners can be especially difficult to negotiate.

Another drawback is EPDM can produce condensation on the underneath side which can result in rusting of connectors and eventual rot of the supporting substrait. I would personally be leary of using it without the proper insulating material which was designed to mitigate this tendency.
 
ok it seems paneling is a good consensus here. i do like the waterproofing of the roofing roll, but that'll be heavier. I'm thinking this panel from lowes:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_12568-293-C...oduct_price|0&Ntt=corrugated+panel&facetInfo=
it's fiberglass so its light and flexible, plus it has a 10 year warranty.

also, b/c it's 8' long by 28" wide, I can double layer it lengthwise. I was going to slope my roof front to back, but that involves cutting the fiberglass (no thanks!) so i'll slope it right to left (run to coop) with a 6% grade. I don't know how much is a good grade decline.

I'm thinking of mounting it to a rafter setup of furring trips, then a 1 x 4 on the outside, then using strap hinges to latch that to the vertical frame post so it can be detached and come off as one giant roof piece.

here's a quick drawing i did to illustrate my thoughts:

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so making a lightweight grid of 1x2 furring strips then screwing the panel into that, then latching it on the corners to my vertical posts.

Also, since i'm doing corrugated, how shall i seal the coop ceiling for weatherproofing/insulation? The wavy foam pieces, or I can go to a foam store and get long strips of foam and compress it with the roof when I apply the panels on. The run doesn't need it.

thoughts?
 
Not knowing any different when I built my Coop nearly twenty years ago, I pieced in plywood for the roof keeping the seams over the rafters made out of 2X4s and then caulked the seams, used roofing tar on the edges before I applied the metal drip edges. Then I put roofing felt down and shingles. See my BYC page for pics, it's been holding up well for being made out of whatever salvage I could find.
 
what's a good slope grade? I'm angling it towards the coop. Roofing panels are 96 inches long, going with the fiberglass panel. a 6 inch rise would yield 6% grade. is that enough? It just needs to let water/snow slide off easier.

For the attachment, I'm thinking of making my grid for the panel to attach to. the whole setup will sit in the frame and maybe I'll use hurricane ties to attach it to the frame. That way I can lift the whole roofing system up at once.
 
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here's a quick schematic using 2x2s and furring strips for the roofing attachment. I'm not a roofer so this may totally suck for all I know
 

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