Roofing question

Good question... I'm having trouble visualizing that.
That's why I assumed I needed the OSB under the metal roofing - so wherever the screws go, you know you're gonna hit something!

How's that work?
 
Well, I just googled it, and here's a pretty good picture of it.
http://www.medeba.com/Pictures/NewCabins12.jpg

Ok, well that seems simple enough!
Just measure off the intervals of the strapping and you'll certainly be within the 2"-3" range.

That made my near future a little less complicated - THANKS!

Now to scavenge some roofing!
 
being at tis stage myself, I went shopping yesterday to figure this out too.

We have an architectural salvage place down the road and they had:

-salvaged polycarbonate roofing (thick plastic, transleucent) $1.20 per square foot
-Salvaged steel siding (thin metal) $0.90 per square foot
-new "Barnmaster" metal roofing $3.10 per square foot.

The area I have to roof is 8X8' for 64' total

I have half a bundle (+/-) of shingles left over from another project, and OSB roof deck is only $11.00 per sheet at HD. I think asphalt shingles will win out for this one.

As for laying steel or plastic roofing, once the purlins are in place, its easy to put a small nail in teh end of them and run a string to show where they are under the metal so you get perfect screw/nail placement every time.
 
"Strapping"? "Purlins"?
It's like a whole nother language! ^___^;
Now to google "purlins"...

So purlins are just metal strapping - of a sort, right?
 
The last coop I built I used OSB and then covered that with tar-paper and the roll roofing which is 3' wide roll of shingle material. I wrapped the tar-paper around the edges and under for an edge protector. Works very well and I plan to do that for all future houses. I used the white roll roofing to help reflect off the summer heat.

Matt
 
Quote:
"Purlin" is the architectural term for little pieces of wood running across the roof. Strapping is a type of wood you could buy at home Depot to use as purlins. If strapping is not available you could also use 1X4 or 1X6 as long as they are not fingerjointed (Fingerjointed means lots of little piecs are glued together to make the longer piece of wood you are buying). The finger jointed stuff won't be as strong, and I just wouldn't trust it.

If you go with a panel roof, you aren't supposed to need a plywood deck. I am not sure how you predator-proof the eaves with a steel/fibreglass roof unless you buy th eproper fascia and soffits, which in my case would kill the budget.
 
With metal or plastic roofing panels, the eaves are very easily predatorproofed with hardwarecloth. You can put a wood trim strip (fascia) onto the rafter tails or not, depending on tastes and climate. In cold-winter climates, metal or plastic roofing needs insulation underneath it but in TN you can get away without it providing you have good ventilation and not an excessively crowded chicken population.

Metal roofing suppliers usually (and plastic roofing suppliers *always*) have instruction brochures or webpages available, that will show you in detail how you are supposed to install them. HIGHLY RECOMMEND, especially if you are unfamiliar with that kind of installation. It is very important to observe proper spacing of purlins (strapping, nailers, whatever ya wanna call them) and to observe manufacturer's specs in terms of how much unsupported overhang you can have at the edges (hint: very little).

Get directions, follow directions, use specified materials instead of winging it, and it's really easy
smile.png


Good luck, have fun,

Pat
 
How can be sure you're putting the screws in the right place on the opaque roof so they hit the strapping underneath? Is predrilling the holes the only way to do that?

When you put down each sheet you can still SEE the purlins.
Simply screw down each sheet as you go

Use self tapping screws and there's no need for predrilling​
 
Sweet, everyone!
Thanks for the advice - ROOF IS ON!
...a little crooked, but it's on there.
 

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