Rooster food, no all flock?

I'd go for either the unmedicated chick starter or the multifowl
Wouldn't chick starter have something for chicks in it or something? Or have different nutrients? Like puppy vs adult dog food?

I'm very new to this so everything is new, haha.

Agreed. Multifowl is just another term for all flock.
Oh interesting. I thought it meant it was for more than one type of bird, like pheasants too or something.
 
Wouldn't chick starter have something for chicks in it or something? Or have different nutrients? Like puppy vs adult dog food?

I'm very new to this so everything is new, haha.


Oh interesting. I thought it meant it was for more than one type of bird, like pheasants too or something.
No, chick starter is suitable for birds of all ages. In many cases chick starter is almost the same as all flock nutritionally. In any case just make sure you have oyster shell on the side for anyone who is laying
 
I'd look for a feed that has about 1% calcium content. That is suitable for chickens that are not laying (your rooster and some of the pullets). Offer oyster shell on the side for those that need the extra calcium, they will figure that out.

I'd be happy with a feed anywhere from 16% protein to 20%. With your options I'd go with one of the two 20% chick/duckling Starter. Since they are Point Of Lay I don't think it matters if it is crumble, mash, or pellets.
 
Wouldn't chick starter have something for chicks in it or something? Or have different nutrients? Like puppy vs adult dog food?

I'm very new to this so everything is new, haha.


Oh interesting. I thought it meant it was for more than one type of bird, like pheasants too or something.
Chicken feed can seem complicated.
All flock or multi fowl can be for chickens, ducks, turkeys mostly. Game bird feed is for pheasants and stuff like that, it has higher protein, usually around 24%. Starter or starter/grower is for chicks under 16 to 18 weeks but any adult chicken can eat it. For chickens over 16-18 weeks 16 or 17% protein it average. Sometimes you can give little higher for limited periods up to 20% during molting or extremely cold winter spells.
Layer feed has calcium in it which really isn't ideal for roosters long term so if you have roosters it's better to feed an all flock and give oyster shell calcium on the side along with grit. Chewy has Kalmbach brand which I find to be a pretty good brand - it's my favorite so far. But it can be pricy, sometimes you can get a sale or a deal if you order a few bags at a time (if you have cool, dry, mouse proof place to store them). I use Dumor and Purina too sometimes, whatever is avail at the feed store. There doesn't seem to be a huge difference really on the main brands available. I ferment my feed too which helps not only in how well they use the nutrients but they eat a little less when it's fermented so it's a better value that way.
 
Chicken feed can seem complicated.
All flock or multi fowl can be for chickens, ducks, turkeys mostly. Game bird feed is for pheasants and stuff like that, it has higher protein, usually around 24%. Starter or starter/grower is for chicks under 16 to 18 weeks but any adult chicken can eat it. For chickens over 16-18 weeks 16 or 17% protein it average. Sometimes you can give little higher for limited periods up to 20% during molting or extremely cold winter spells.
Layer feed has calcium in it which really isn't ideal for roosters long term so if you have roosters it's better to feed an all flock and give oyster shell calcium on the side along with grit. Chewy has Kalmbach brand which I find to be a pretty good brand - it's my favorite so far. But it can be pricy, sometimes you can get a sale or a deal if you order a few bags at a time (if you have cool, dry, mouse proof place to store them). I use Dumor and Purina too sometimes, whatever is avail at the feed store. There doesn't seem to be a huge difference really on the main brands available. I ferment my feed too which helps not only in how well they use the nutrients but they eat a little less when it's fermented so it's a better value that way.
You can feed 20% protein indefinitely. It's not until you get to over 30% protein that you have to start worrying about too much protein (although there's not any benefit of going over 25%)
 

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