Run Construction

lisamayc

In the Brooder
10 Years
Jan 7, 2010
48
0
32
I'm getting ready to build my chicken run. It is going to be a basic frame with chicken wire/hardware cloth.

Can I use 1" x3" fir stripping for the framing material.

I want to save on the lumber and spend on the hardware cloth. I figure it won't be supporting any weight for a roof - so it might work. Definately does not need to be made out of 2'x4"s. As it is the coop is framed with 2"x3"s that were ripped from salvaded lumber. Unfortunately, I don't have access to tools for ripping lumber and I can't find 2" x 3".

Builders - I need your thoughts.

Thanks
 
i dont see why it wouldnt work i would make sure u use some supports along the run so the strapping dont sag but i think it would be ok
 
I used 2" by 2" by 8` for my run, with supports every 4 feet. So far, so good. Got 'em at Home Depot.
 
Options:

Use them this way
[] Strong up and down, but not side to side

using them this way:
=
Strong side to side, but not up down.

Taking two and nailing them together like this:
=[] ( make an L, not a T) Strong both ways, but doubles the weight and the cost.

I know that two 2x4's glued and screwed together like this are stronger than a 4x4. So I'm betting that 1x2's will be as strong as a 2x3.

B
 
Quote:
I bought the pressure treated ones, then stained them. Take a look at my BYC page for pictures. The pressure treated boards were nice and smooth, smoother than the untreated ones, so that's what really decided me. I did have to go through the whole pile at the store to pick out the straight ones. Many of them were cupped, crooked, etc.
 
Quote:
I would be extremely leery of doing that. Reason being, a dog will smash right through it. If this will be a walk-in height run, heck, WIND might smash it flat. Also, that thin and crappy a material will not make strong joints, b/c there is just not enough wood to screw into, and it will die of rot more than twice as soon as 2x4s would.

For a very small, reach-in type run, I would suggest using 2x4s. They are really, really cheap. Anything ground-contact (the sill, if the run just sits atop the ground, or the posts if it has posts) need to be pressure-treated or something like that -- but again, that isn't that expensive.

For a walk-in size run, you really honestly need to use at LEAST metal t-posts or p/t 4x4s. (The latter being my choice, as they will resist wind and dogs much better than t-posts). For putting a horizontal piece of wood against the top and bottom of the run to keep the fence wire from wibbling too badly, something thinner is OK, although again you want p/t or the like for the one that will be along the ground.

Remember that the most expensive wire in the world is not much use if the structure that supports it gets smashed flat or lacks enough wood to allow you to attache the wire firmly TO it.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat
 
thanks Pat -

how about a compromise - pressure treated 2x4 on the ground, sealed stained 2x3 for the rest. I plan to use the existin coop as one wall and build two 6 foot long walls for the sides and one 11 foot wall. I figure if I purchase 8 foot boads then the left over from each cut can be used for corner bracing.

Since I am building it myself, I plan to preassemlbe each panel and wrap them in chicken wire on the gound. Then simply attach the 3 walls to the existing coop. For the chicken wire, I plan to attach it to the inside of the boards so when the boards are screwed together the chicken wire seem side will be screwed between the two boards. this seems like it will be much easier than haveing to attach it using a ladder after the walls have gone up.

For the hardware cloth I will use screws and washers and wrap it completely around the run.

I know that I will be using more wood this way, but it is the only way I can figure to get the job done by myself.
 
If this will be a reach-in height run, that sounds very reasonable to me
smile.png
(For walk-in height, I still think you want 4x4 corner posts and 2x4 for the rest of it).

Good luck, have fun,

Pat
 

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