Run Design

[Kyle Boisseau]

Working on the design of turning an old wooden shed (aprx. 15'x12') into a coop with a run somewhere around 15' X 30'. Two question regarding the run in particular.
1. I'll have to fence the top of the run due to predators, but is it necessary for the fence to be tall enough for me to walk around comfortably in? I'm completely new to this, so I don't know how often I'll need to be in the run.

2. Does some, all or non of the run need to be completely covered from the elements?

Thanks for any advice!

 

[Bobby Basham]

Working on the design of turning an old wooden shed (aprx. 15'x12') into a coop with a run somewhere around 15' X 30'. Two question regarding the run in particular.
1. I'll have to fence the top of the run due to predators, but is it necessary for the fence to be tall enough for me to walk around comfortably in? I'm completely new to this, so I don't know how often I'll need to be in the run.

2. Does some, all or non of the run need to be completely covered from the elements?

Thanks for any advice!

My wacky run is only 5-ft tall (HOA issues) and comprised of four 8'x8' squares. I used 1/2 of the lower quadrant to build my chicken TV/observation deck. The upper quadrant in the center of the pic will house my 6'x6' coup.

I also have a 12'x20' tarp to cover a good portion of the run, to give some shade from the AZ sun and fierce summer monsoons, leaving the observation deck and a 4'x8' area exposed to the elements. It will also be completely screened (quarter-inch hardware cloth) from top to bottom (minus the deck) and hardware cloth extending out from the bottom covered with raised planter boxes for veggies.

Those quadrants will disappear once I throw in a bunch of hay and other materials and you can completely walk through the whole structure.

I am only 5'8" and don't mind the coziness of it all. No problem bending over a little to take care of chores. It would have been nice to have it six feet tall, but don't want to hear any neighbor complaints, so everything is on the down low.

 

[Welshies]

That coop is suitable for 45 birds. Are you planning to have this many? Remember ventilation. You'll need lots, but want to make it closable since your flock won't need as much at the start, since it should start out small. You'll also want some windows, and lots of roosts... Remember, 1 nest box per 5 hens, and 12" of roost space per bird. 1 square foot of ventilation per 10 square feet.
That run is suitable for 45 birds... barely. With only 10 square feet of space per bird, you won't have any grass left after a couple months. What will be your bedding? What are your run goals? Will you be using sand or the DLM in your run space? If not, consider making your run big enough to allow for 50 or 100 square feet of space per bird (if you want a grassy area).
You should always have everything walk in. Make that run high up. What if there's a sick bird? What about all those times you have to herd young, newly let out birds back into their coop at night? What about food and water- which should be stored outside?
As for coverage, it depends on what you want. If you're using the DLM in your run, then yes. If not, then no... but, if you want your birds to go outside during winter, you'll have to spread straw over any snow. Also, think about where the rain and snow will go- do you have it slanted, or is the water going to pool in one area, or flood the run, potentially causing disease?
Make sure you don't use chicken wire for your run.

 

[Kyle Boisseau]

That coop is suitable for 45 birds. Are you planning to have this many? Remember ventilation. You'll need lots, but want to make it closable since your flock won't need as much at the start, since it should start out small. You'll also want some windows, and lots of roosts... Remember, 1 nest box per 5 hens, and 12" of roost space per bird. 1 square foot of ventilation per 10 square feet.
That run is suitable for 45 birds... barely. With only 10 square feet of space per bird, you won't have any grass left after a couple months. What will be your bedding? What are your run goals? Will you be using sand or the DLM in your run space? If not, consider making your run big enough to allow for 50 or 100 square feet of space per bird (if you want a grassy area).
You should always have everything walk in. Make that run high up. What if there's a sick bird? What about all those times you have to herd young, newly let out birds back into their coop at night? What about food and water- which should be stored outside?
As for coverage, it depends on what you want. If you're using the DLM in your run, then yes. If not, then no... but, if you want your birds to go outside during winter, you'll have to spread straw over any snow. Also, think about where the rain and snow will go- do you have it slanted, or is the water going to pool in one area, or flood the run, potentially causing disease?
Make sure you don't use chicken wire for your run.

Our plan is to have around 15-20 birds, so the run size should be sufficient. I won't be able to let them free range at all due to predators in the area. Not sure on bedding yet. DLM in the coop seems to be a good option, but not sure if I'll go that route in the run. I literally just got started researching chickens this week. Lot of info coming at me really fast. My plan is to start working on the coop now when time and weather permits and introducing chickens sometime in early May.

 

[Birdinhand]

I would recommend covering the whole thing, chickens don't benefit from rain and unless it's a huge run, more like a pasture, they will scratch it down to dirt in no time and then when it rains it will turn into a cesspool if not covered. I highly recommend finding a source of bulk hardware cloth, usually comes in 48" rolls 100 ft long. make it tall enough to walk into. it's a big up front effort and cost but will cut down on so many hassles later. a lot of us use the term DLM loosely. depending on the soil, you may not need to add litter, they will probably scratch and turn the soil adequately.

 

[Welshies]

I sincerely suggest you make that run big enough for 50 or 100 sq ft of space per bird, for 45 birds... the extra investment will be totally cheaper in the long run when you have pastured birds... green grass... bugs... tasty meat and eggs.
Worth the investment.
I had 5 chickens on 400 square feet of run this year. 300 sq ft of grass. It's bare dirt now.
I am now making my run 1,000 sq ft.

 

[Kyle Boisseau]

I sincerely suggest you make that run big enough for 50 or 100 sq ft of space per bird, for 45 birds... the extra investment will be totally cheaper in the long run when you have pastured birds... green grass... bugs... tasty meat and eggs.
Worth the investment.
I had 5 chickens on 400 square feet of run this year. 300 sq ft of grass. It's bare dirt now.
I am now making my run 1,000 sq ft.

I'm starting to get the picture that with chickens coops and runs, bigger is better. The plan is to have 15-20 birds, but space isn't an issue, so I could go with a larger run as long as the budget allows. I have a 7 acre open yard with no neighbors in site, so I'd love to let them free range, but we are in a very rural area and predator numbers are high.

 

[sweetater22]

I am 70 years old maybe you are younger than that, but you will be there soon enough God willing. And I can promise you that you will welcome a run that you can walk upright in. Also consider Deep Litter method bedding that works so well and works much better with a taller run.

 

[Welshies]

I'm starting to get the picture that with chickens coops and runs, bigger is better. The plan is to have 15-20 birds, but space isn't an issue, so I could go with a larger run as long as the budget allows. I have a 7 acre open yard with no neighbors in site, so I'd love to let them free range, but we are in a very rural area and predator numbers are high.

Yep, predators are a big concern.
Truly, with a run, bigger is better. And the bigger the run the more bang for your buck you are getting. Fencing costs money, but there's nothing that can replace natural forage. The bigger the run, the less space needed in the coop too. With a large run, 3 or 2 square feet of space per bird may work- but your flock will be the one to determine that.
If you have a rooster there is no need to cover it to protect from predators, at least, a good rooster. To deter ground predators make the fence 6' high, and use a 12" or 18" apron or buried fence.

 

[Lazy Farmer]

1. I'll have to fence the top of the run due to predators, but is it necessary for the fence to be tall enough for me to walk around comfortably in? I'm completely new to this, so I don't know how often I'll need to be in the run.

• Most economical fencing is around 4'. Then the higher the fence/the higher the price. To enclose the top of the run would mean human access would be challenging. Maybe bumping your head or crawling thru chicken dookie.
• Fencing weighs a lot! how would you support the field area to prevent sagging and the perimeter from being pulled inwards?

2. Does some, all or non of the run need to be completely covered from the elements?

• Shaded area in necessary seasonally. A small section should be shaded if no trees are present hanging over the said run. Perhaps add your approx geographical location to your personal info to help other BYC members aid you more accurately in the near future.

Thanks for any advice!

You are very welcome and BTW, excellent questions you have. Pleased to meet your acquaintance.