Run roof construction help!

[Emak2323]

You can easily build a knee wall. It's very simple.
Just do it in two 12' sections. Get four 12' and two 10' 2x4 PT boards. If your run is EXACTLY 24', cut each of the 12' 2x4s to 12' (they always come a little longer). Then cut up the 10' lumber into 17" lengths. Use one as a template to make sure they are all exactly the same length. Mark one 12 footer up to place the short studs 24 inches on center (OC) then line up the marked 12 footer to each of the others and transfer the marks there. Now you are ready to lay them out in pairs with the marks facing each other and lay the 17" studs between them. Shoot two nails in on the bottom and again on the top along the length of the 12 footers. Turn it up and there's your knee wall. Lift them up on the front wall and clamp them in place until you've shot two nail down into your new beam along the length of the wall. It's not hard. I hope I've described this well enough to you and not insulted you if you already knew the basics for a wall!

Make two:
View attachment 2083078

• Add angle braces under the 2x4 connections to the 4x4 posts. You would not need to do this if you do the option you suggest below.
• You mentioned I should double up on the 2x4x8s in between the posts. Would it make any sense to get 4 2x6x12s and add those to the TOP of the posts/2x4x8s on the front and back walls? Yes, but they need to be doubled up to make a proper beam. You need to install them with caps. You can buy split caps that will slid over the 4x4 and up against your beam (see below). Use 2 per post and attach them with proper structural screws. Remove the existing toe screwed 2x4s. You can salvage that lumber by using them for cross-bracing..
• I will definitely switch out the 2x4x10's for 2x6x10s. Should I get them as 12' since the span of the run is 10'? By that I mean should there be overhang of the rafter? YES! Use 12'. In my run framing pictures, the rafters are 14' long.
• I will also get rafter ties to connect these
• Should I add in some bracing like you have in yours in the corner from the posts to the upper 2x4s? Yes. It will prevent racking. You will also want to do it on the 10' side too. See below how I added mine (I pointed to them with red arrows). You want them a minimum of 2' down from the beam. The easiest way to do that for a beginner carpenter is to measure down from the beam on your post and put a mark at 2'. Then take one of those 2x4s you are removing, cut one end to 45 degrees then push it up to the beam and and keep moving it away from the marked post until it crosses your mark. Then mark the 2x4 and bring it back to the chop saw and cut it. Use that as a template to make all your cross-braces.
• Can I ask why your door is like that? I had to cut the door to fit under the brace support. I wanted the door wide enough for me to get my wheelbarrow in the run to add wood chips as needed.

View attachment 2083012
https://www.lowes.com/pd/USP-4-in-x-4-in-Triple-Zinc-Wood-to-Wood-Cap/3367792

View attachment 2083018

You can click on the My Coop link in my avatar and it will bring you to the article I wrote on how I converted my shed into my coop and built the run. It's got lots of pictures and I think it might help you.

I can't thank you enough!!! It's a lot doing all this by myself but I think I can do it in stages. The pictures are really helpful. By the way, I don't know if you have any issues with food getting spilled out or rodents trying to get in to get the food (i did when I tried the way you have it), but one thing I feel like I've actually done well for the chickens is the food system I use.

The link to the video is below to see what I modeled it after. I used a clove hitch knot to tie it to the top of my coop, and a taut-line knot to attach it to the bucket (so it’s adjustable). I only used 1 washer, some fitting, and 1 nut(in that order) at the end of the eye bolt for better swing-age, and you may have to play around with the size of the hole till you get it right. It took my girls a day or 2 to get it, but they did!

Thank you again. I will post some pictures when I finish it

 

[Emak2323]

You can easily build a knee wall. It's very simple.
Just do it in two 12' sections. Get four 12' and two 10' 2x4 PT boards. If your run is EXACTLY 24', cut each of the 12' 2x4s to 12' (they always come a little longer). Then cut up the 10' lumber into 17" lengths. Use one as a template to make sure they are all exactly the same length. Mark one 12 footer up to place the short studs 24 inches on center (OC) then line up the marked 12 footer to each of the others and transfer the marks there. Now you are ready to lay them out in pairs with the marks facing each other and lay the 17" studs between them. Shoot two nails in on the bottom and again on the top along the length of the 12 footers. Turn it up and there's your knee wall. Lift them up on the front wall and clamp them in place until you've shot two nail down into your new beam along the length of the wall. It's not hard. I hope I've described this well enough to you and not insulted you if you already knew the basics for a wall!

Make two:
View attachment 2083078

• Add angle braces under the 2x4 connections to the 4x4 posts. You would not need to do this if you do the option you suggest below.
• You mentioned I should double up on the 2x4x8s in between the posts. Would it make any sense to get 4 2x6x12s and add those to the TOP of the posts/2x4x8s on the front and back walls? Yes, but they need to be doubled up to make a proper beam. You need to install them with caps. You can buy split caps that will slid over the 4x4 and up against your beam (see below). Use 2 per post and attach them with proper structural screws. Remove the existing toe screwed 2x4s. You can salvage that lumber by using them for cross-bracing..
• I will definitely switch out the 2x4x10's for 2x6x10s. Should I get them as 12' since the span of the run is 10'? By that I mean should there be overhang of the rafter? YES! Use 12'. In my run framing pictures, the rafters are 14' long.
• I will also get rafter ties to connect these
• Should I add in some bracing like you have in yours in the corner from the posts to the upper 2x4s? Yes. It will prevent racking. You will also want to do it on the 10' side too. See below how I added mine (I pointed to them with red arrows). You want them a minimum of 2' down from the beam. The easiest way to do that for a beginner carpenter is to measure down from the beam on your post and put a mark at 2'. Then take one of those 2x4s you are removing, cut one end to 45 degrees then push it up to the beam and and keep moving it away from the marked post until it crosses your mark. Then mark the 2x4 and bring it back to the chop saw and cut it. Use that as a template to make all your cross-braces.
• Can I ask why your door is like that? I had to cut the door to fit under the brace support. I wanted the door wide enough for me to get my wheelbarrow in the run to add wood chips as needed.

View attachment 2083012
https://www.lowes.com/pd/USP-4-in-x-4-in-Triple-Zinc-Wood-to-Wood-Cap/3367792

View attachment 2083018

You can click on the My Coop link in my avatar and it will bring you to the article I wrote on how I converted my shed into my coop and built the run. It's got lots of pictures and I think it might help you.

I read your coop article! Amazing amount of detail and work!

I am going to go with polycarbonate roofing for at least part of the run. I know I have to attach purlins across the 2x6x12 rafters. I have been searching for days trying to find out what size the rafters need to be and have found conflicting info (1x4, 2x3 or 2x4). I am going to attach them on top of the rafters (not in between), as this seems the easier route. Do you know what size I would need to use?

 

[DobieLover]

I read your coop article! Amazing amount of detail and work!

I am going to go with polycarbonate roofing for at least part of the run. I know I have to attach purlins across the 2x6x12 rafters. I have been searching for days trying to find out what size the rafters need to be and have found conflicting info (1x4, 2x3 or 2x4). I am going to attach them on top of the rafters (not in between), as this seems the easier route. Do you know what size I would need to use?

I used 1x4s on the old run and they held up just fine.

 

[aart]

I have been searching for days trying to find out what size the rafters need to be and have found conflicting info (1x4, 2x3 or 2x4).

Did you mean purlins there rather than rafters?

I am going to attach them on top of the rafters (not in between), as this seems the easier route.

Yes, purlins go on top of rafters and perpendicular to rafters.

 

[Emak2323]

Did you mean purlins there rather than rafters?

Yes, purlins go on top of rafters and perpendicular to rafters.

Ooof! Yes that's what I meant to type...I guess I was tired last night! I've seen some people fit them between the rafters, but that's more effort than I'm willing to make at this stage! I'm going to place them 24" OC on top of the Rafters that are also 24" OC. It's like learning a new language!

 

[DobieLover]

Ooof! Yes that's what I meant to type...I guess I was tired last night! I've seen some people fit them between the rafters, but that's more effort than I'm willing to make at this stage! I'm going to place them 24" OC on top of the Rafters that are also 24" OC. It's like learning a new language!

You're doing great!
Feel free to post progress pictures.

 

[aart]

Ooof! Yes that's what I meant to type...I guess I was tired last night! I've seen some people fit them between the rafters, but that's more effort than I'm willing to make at this stage! I'm going to place them 24" OC on top of the Rafters that are also 24" OC. It's like learning a new language!

It is!!
No worries....you are doing great!
I figured that's what you meant, but wanted to be sure and correct for anyone else reading.

 

[Emak2323]

You're doing great!
Feel free to post progress pictures.

you’re the best

I cut some ventilation windows in the coop (still have more to go, but I have some vents cut at the top in the front and back under the roof). You can’t see from the pics, but I added the second 2x4s behind the first 2x4x8s and I have hurricane rafter ties on all the rafters and angle braces under the 2x4x8 “beam”.

 

[Emak2323]

It is!!
No worries....you are doing great!
I figured that's what you meant, but wanted to be sure and correct for anyone else reading.

Thank you!! I do appreciate you both so much!

 

[Emak2323]

I put on the polycarbonate roofing! Now I need to get the hardware cloth up. Wanted to send you guys some progress pictures