Siding material, ventilation, and other coop questions.

[black_cat]

Here's a messy view of framing for the side with the main access door. Scale is one square is 6 square inches. I tried to frame up the door with the 2x4s, and figure that was enough framing in the walls. Is this totally wrong? does it look good? Thoughts?

Messy view of framing for back wall with nesting boxes. Since the nesting boxes are at floor level that made it easier. I added two 2x4s for extra support in the wall, one every 2 feet. I could also put a window in that middle section, and would probably change the framing to accommodate that. Thoughts on the framing?
The secondary access side is identical to the first picture shown.

Messy view of the 'front' where the pop door is for access to the run. That is planning for a pop door that is 18'' high, 24'' wide, with a 6'' lip between the pop door and the floor of the coop and the door. Is that a good size?
Thoughts on this framing, aside from I need to make it neater?
Anything that I"m making harder for myself?
Anything that isn't structurally sound?

 

[aart]

Nice sketches!
Good you played with different scales.
Yeah, angles are hard in iso's...
...fake it in iso and your orthographic views(top sides etc) will define.
Ortho views is where to define the actual framing.
Just keep practicing, you'lll get better at drawing and refine your design.
Much easier to make mistakes in pencil where they can be corrected with erasure, than in lumber.

My roost is 8" above the board.
My pop doors are 14w x 18h....one with auto locks only opens to 14h.
See coop page for details.

Here's some tips on heights.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/coop-stack-up-how-high-stuff-works-well.73427/

 

[Flockincrazy]

My coop and I have plywood inserts that fit in the frame for winter

 

[black_cat]

Nice sketches!
Good you played with different scales.
Yeah, angles are hard in iso's...
...fake it in iso and your orthographic views(top sides etc) will define.
Ortho views is where to define the actual framing.
Just keep practicing, you'lll get better at drawing and refine your design.
Much easier to make mistakes in pencil where they can be corrected with erasure, than in lumber.

My roost is 8" above the board.
My pop doors are 14w x 18h....one with auto locks only opens to 14h.
See coop page for details.

Here's some tips on heights.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/coop-stack-up-how-high-stuff-works-well.73427/

Thank you! I will move up that lip so that bedding stays in the coop. Doing it in ISO did make me realize that yes, I need more slope on the roof. I was worried that 6 inches would be too high, so if yours is 8'' I think that I'll leave mine at 6'' for the sake of cuts and math and stuff. The roosts are a full foot above the tops of the nesting boxes. Two of my hens are currently sleeping in the bedding with our current coop, but I think that this is because A) there is not a lot of roost space, and
B) they are below the other two in the pecking order. I'd move them up but there is not really enough space in the coop for me to properly move them around, and I also am not able to pick them up comfortably yet. Hopefully with a new coop and more roost space that is easily accessible to the hens, this will get better.

 

[aart]

I need more slope on the roof.

Figure your roof design and framing in a side view.
Also was going to say......drafting basics...
Label your top view with north, and front back side etc and label your elevations the same way.

 

[black_cat]

@U_Stormcrow Thoughts on the framing?

 

[U_Stormcrow]

24" o/c would never pass muster on a house, but its perfectly adequate for a hen house. Those should work fine. Initially, it will seem very rickety. You will be able to lean on it - or it may even "lean on itself" - and it will wobble, slip out of true, and all the rest. But once you start adding a skin on the thing, it should stiffen right up and do the deed for you very adequately.


/edit During construction - particularly if you are raising the walls yourself - don't hesitate to make use of temporary bracing to help keep things from shifting as you work.

 

[ZephyrCoveFarms]

I will say this about the T-11 stuff the others have mentioned. I wanted to use this on the sides, but I built this coop in May of this year and Lowes was sold out with no idea of when they would get any in. So I had to go with tin.

I would avoid T-11 and use hardie sheets. Same price, T-11 rots, Hardie won’t.

 

[black_cat]

I would avoid T-11 and use hardie sheets. Same price, T-11 rots, Hardie won’t.

I don't think that my local hardware store has hardie sheets...I'll look again.

 

[ZephyrCoveFarms]

I don't think that my local hardware store has hardie sheets...I'll look again.

It’s worth it but you will need a cement board blade to cut it.