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Yeah, I wasn't trying to be confusing. Just saying that you can start with perfect birds... and still wind up with faults and DQ's. It happens... and you'll still get some odd things cropping up from time to time. Some of it may be how you incubated and some of it may actually be genetic. But I wasn't saying NOT to start with good birds, just that even with good birds, you'll still be doing an awful lot of culling anyway.You just told her the total opposite of what the link she is talking about just said. Lol. If you want to start breeding I think it best to get the best possible parents you can. If you have a choice between 4 or 6 toed and the normal 5 toed parents I think it is smart to go with the 5 toed. No offense to you experts and such but someone new to breeding should do things as simple as possible. Until you understand what traits are always passed on and ones that you can use with little side effects on the offspring keep things simple. Good quality is going to give you a better chance at good quality. If you are breeding faults then expect faults in the offspring. Now if you have the ability to hatch 300 chicks a year then you can experiment a lot more. If you only can hatch a dozen or 2 then use parents with the best quality to limit your culls. Once you have an understanding you can change that up a bit. Just my thoughts on things. Not trying to upset anyone either. I hope this clarifies things for someone at least.
Quote: I'm using the Brinsea Octagon Eco 20. It does not have the digital readout. It simply has a glass therm in there. Which because it is close to the heating element (and I didn't realize this needed to be taken into consideration when I first got it) I adjusted my machine accordingly. At first, I was too low and then I happened to buy a really cruddy therm and I adjusted it too high. The machine itself WORKS. And it works amazing! There is nothing wrong with it. But it just goes to show that you need to double check yourself and be sure that you are accurately reading your temps. The best way to read temps is IN the egg. Second best would be right about middle of your tray level. It's all trial and error until you've been hatching a while and know how your machine works and can work with it. The Brinsea can basically do it on it's own. It's pretty fool proof. UNLESS the fool is YOU!! LOL!!! Once I got it adjusted right, I had no more issues.
She meant that even good quality 5 toed birds might still throw a fault like 4 toes every now and then. More that she probably wants to get birds herself who have no faults, but doesn't need to go to the extreme of checking every bird in the line and all siblings, aunts, uncles, and great grandparents.
My breeder turns out excellent birds, but her excellent birds that excel at shows come from the same lines that throw a DQ like 4 toes or webbed toes every now and then.Exactly.![]()
Pretty boys! Glad you found them happy homes!![]()
Thank you! Unfortunately, only the first one has found a new home. The second one is still available,,,hint hint!Yeah, I wasn't trying to be confusing. Just saying that you can start with perfect birds... and still wind up with faults and DQ's. It happens... and you'll still get some odd things cropping up from time to time. Some of it may be how you incubated and some of it may actually be genetic. But I wasn't saying NOT to start with good birds, just that even with good birds, you'll still be doing an awful lot of culling anyway.And so long as YOUR bird has good toes, and looks good, etc... then you don't need to worry about how many toes the parent stock had or the siblings. Let's say the majority of your hatches do have the correct number of toes, but a couple of them are webbed and some are fused, or you happen to get brachytyly in one or two of them... but the majority are fine. It's fine to buy a GOOD bird (with all toes) out of a selection like that. Those faults are going to happen. They happen less and less in better breeder programs, though. But they'll still crop up no matter how great a bird you have.![]()
I'm using the Brinsea Octagon Eco 20. It does not have the digital readout. It simply has a glass therm in there. Which because it is close to the heating element (and I didn't realize this needed to be taken into consideration when I first got it) I adjusted my machine accordingly. At first, I was too low and then I happened to buy a really cruddy therm and I adjusted it too high. The machine itself WORKS. And it works amazing! There is nothing wrong with it. But it just goes to show that you need to double check yourself and be sure that you are accurately reading your temps. The best way to read temps is IN the egg. Second best would be right about middle of your tray level. It's all trial and error until you've been hatching a while and know how your machine works and can work with it. The Brinsea can basically do it on it's own. It's pretty fool proof. UNLESS the fool is YOU!! LOL!!! Once I got it adjusted right, I had no more issues.
Exactly.![]()
Pretty boys! Glad you found them happy homes!![]()
My guess would be he is a little cockerel...I believe the color is Grey/Silver Partridge.
I see a hint of wattles therefore I'm going to go with 'boy'.
BEAUTIFUL!!!! Thanks for sharing!
Cute!! But get a shot of the beak/comb. I'm going to agree with silver partridge.
Well, that's a little frustrating. Good one minute....yucky the next.According to a least one show breeder I communicated with, wings can look good at 8 months and go bad at a year, so I'm really wondering the same thing, but if they look obviously bad at 3 months I will not likely keep them. I've had some that didn't look so good at 8 wks and looked great at 3 months. So they do change.