How can you tell if they are internally pipped? Are you candling?of course... temperature i set around 100.2 degrees, humidity i just followed the directions of the brinsea mini advanced. Fill one of the sections up until about day 26 or 27 and then fill both up from day 26/27 until they hatch. I dont know what the actual humidity was... This incubator has an auto turner that I set at every 2 hours. However for these shipped duck eggs because I had problems with them internally pipping and then dyinging without getting out the shell i decided to help them this time. As soon as they internally pipped I carefully opened the shell for them where the air sac was. I gradually chipped the whole top part away for them and stopped where their membrane was... There membrane does dry out though so you have to keep n eye on them and wet them with water every now and then, especially when you think they are about ready to come out of the shell. It took 2 to even 3 days for some of the ducklings to come out of the shell after internally pipping. All five hatched successfully, but 3 were weak and did not make it. The other two are doing great though and growing like weeds. I might have even got lucky.. I sexed them and I THINK i have a male and a female. I have a male for sure, but the other one I am not positive about. I know some people say you shouldnt help the ducks hatch but I wouldn't do it any other way, at least for shipped eggs. You just have to know what you are doing. I would highly recommend the brinsea mini advanced though. The three times I have hatched wood duck and mallard eggs that were not shipped, i have gotten a 100% hatch rate for those that were fertile.. I guess the only big downfall is that it can only hold 7 eggs at a time, for those people that need more spacing. Well anyways I think thats about it, hope this helps!