Morgaine...my wholesale order for the beekeepers was for plain honey soap. I used bubblewrap on top of the soap...and it came OUT so pretty like honeycomb. Let me post some pictures later...of it. I really liked the outcome of it.
Soap Makers Help!
- Thread starter Jenlyn9483
- Start date
Well I tried Brambleberry's "sensious sandlewood" and I think its a good "manly" smell... but go figure DH prefures using my plain jane, no scent at all.
I tried swirling... to no avail.
When I tried I made 1 batch plain soap and seperated the batch into two bowls. Then I added my color to one batch, but as I did this the other started to set up! Then when I poured in the mold it was too stiff to really want to move other than "glop" into the mold.
So I guess I have layering down.
What hints do you guys have for swirling?
I tried swirling... to no avail.
When I tried I made 1 batch plain soap and seperated the batch into two bowls. Then I added my color to one batch, but as I did this the other started to set up! Then when I poured in the mold it was too stiff to really want to move other than "glop" into the mold.
What hints do you guys have for swirling?
I usually do In The Pot (ITP)Swirling. You take out portions of your soap that you colored, and then after you mix the color, you pour it into the POT going around and then you pour into the mold. I save a little color and then swirl on the top too. Here are some of my ITP swirls.
It is best to mix colors at a VERY VERY light trace. That gives you time to swirl before it thickens up. This soap was an ITP Swirl, but the white base (which was scented with a fo that can accelerate) thickened up before the colored soap that was not scented and it gave this marbled look.
This soap I kinda did layered swirls. What that means is I poured some green color on the bottom of the mold then white then green again and alternated. This was at a very thin trace and I kinda just took my butter knife and ran it up and down to drag the colors.
Other tips for swirling besides mixing a thin trace
If using powdered colorants, mix with a tiny bit of oil or water before adding your raw soap.
Don't over mix the colored portions so that it gets thicks, then you get globs.
I take out 2 cups of raw soap to color for my 15lb batch. Half is way too much.
Unless you have globs, don't over stir the swirls because then you loose that defined look.
That's all I can think of for now. There are a lot of you tube video's on soap swirling.
It is best to mix colors at a VERY VERY light trace. That gives you time to swirl before it thickens up. This soap was an ITP Swirl, but the white base (which was scented with a fo that can accelerate) thickened up before the colored soap that was not scented and it gave this marbled look.
This soap I kinda did layered swirls. What that means is I poured some green color on the bottom of the mold then white then green again and alternated. This was at a very thin trace and I kinda just took my butter knife and ran it up and down to drag the colors.
Other tips for swirling besides mixing a thin trace
If using powdered colorants, mix with a tiny bit of oil or water before adding your raw soap.
Don't over mix the colored portions so that it gets thicks, then you get globs.
I take out 2 cups of raw soap to color for my 15lb batch. Half is way too much.
Unless you have globs, don't over stir the swirls because then you loose that defined look.
That's all I can think of for now. There are a lot of you tube video's on soap swirling.
Ok thanks!
My lilac is all gone already (I just make mine for gifts at this point anyway) and had so many birthdays this month. So I'll make more lilac and try that in the pot swirl. Thank you Morgaine.
My lilac is all gone already (I just make mine for gifts at this point anyway) and had so many birthdays this month. So I'll make more lilac and try that in the pot swirl. Thank you Morgaine.
Quote:
I've used loofa in some of my soaps. I line a pvc pipe with freezer paper for the mold. I used several layers of heavy plastic wrap for one end and used many rubberbands to hold the plastic on the end of the pvc pipe. In serted the loofa in the pipe. A 12 inch length will allow you to use 2 of the drug store loofas.
Once your soap has jelled, the loofa will be softer because it has absorbed liquid from the soap. I simply used a serrated knife to cut the round bars.
As for the plastic scrubbies...I wouldn't use them. The plastic particles will be difficult on plumbing and hard on the skin.
I've used loofa in some of my soaps. I line a pvc pipe with freezer paper for the mold. I used several layers of heavy plastic wrap for one end and used many rubberbands to hold the plastic on the end of the pvc pipe. In serted the loofa in the pipe. A 12 inch length will allow you to use 2 of the drug store loofas.
Once your soap has jelled, the loofa will be softer because it has absorbed liquid from the soap. I simply used a serrated knife to cut the round bars.
As for the plastic scrubbies...I wouldn't use them. The plastic particles will be difficult on plumbing and hard on the skin.
I prefer coloring at thin trace too...and if you stir the pot you will see that the soap 'reliquifies' back to a thinner trace...I color...and then I have dh stir the soap while I'm coloring the others. Stirring it prevents the gel stage and thick trace...you can do this over in my experience a period of an hour or so....the more you stir the different texture and hardness you get. I stir in mold as well when I am using a recipe that I do not want to gel.
Oxides mix with a little water
micas mix with a little oil
Hershey Cocoa powder mix with a little oil then add these at trace...it helps to prevent clumping which tend to bleed in the shower. General rule of thumb...Oxides always bleed but are healthier for your skin...Mica's do not bleed but are treated in a lab with oxide colorants and are not technically all natural. If it bleeds I use very small amount of it as a swirl and that is it. I have gotten great results with coloring the entire batch with oxides and then the swirls with micas.
You tend to need more mica than oxide...so it is cheaper to use the micas for the swirl...and using the oxide for the entire bar coloring. When I intend to color the entire bar with oxides...I mix the oxide in what ever milk I plan on using and add it at trace. It works out very well and blends lovely with NO bleeding or clumping at all this way.
I'm designing a TIE Dye soap on Monday...for a Hippie Concert show...I'll post photos.
PS NanaKat...I LOVE your loofah soap...I've always wanted to try that out and I've never done it. I've always wanted to use sea sponges...too.
Oxides mix with a little water
micas mix with a little oil
Hershey Cocoa powder mix with a little oil then add these at trace...it helps to prevent clumping which tend to bleed in the shower. General rule of thumb...Oxides always bleed but are healthier for your skin...Mica's do not bleed but are treated in a lab with oxide colorants and are not technically all natural. If it bleeds I use very small amount of it as a swirl and that is it. I have gotten great results with coloring the entire batch with oxides and then the swirls with micas.
You tend to need more mica than oxide...so it is cheaper to use the micas for the swirl...and using the oxide for the entire bar coloring. When I intend to color the entire bar with oxides...I mix the oxide in what ever milk I plan on using and add it at trace. It works out very well and blends lovely with NO bleeding or clumping at all this way.
I'm designing a TIE Dye soap on Monday...for a Hippie Concert show...I'll post photos.
PS NanaKat...I LOVE your loofah soap...I've always wanted to try that out and I've never done it. I've always wanted to use sea sponges...too.
Quote:
I've used loofa in some of my soaps. I line a pvc pipe with freezer paper for the mold. I used several layers of heavy plastic wrap for one end and used many rubberbands to hold the plastic on the end of the pvc pipe. In serted the loofa in the pipe. A 12 inch length will allow you to use 2 of the drug store loofas.
Once your soap has jelled, the loofa will be softer because it has absorbed liquid from the soap. I simply used a serrated knife to cut the round bars.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/uploads/23941_lavender_loofa_soap.jpg
As for the plastic scrubbies...I wouldn't use them. The plastic particles will be difficult on plumbing and hard on the skin.
I just picked up some seed to grow some loofa this year for making soap later! I saw some soap like this a little botique and though, "I can do that for less than half that price!!!" guess what everyone is getting for Christmas again this year.
I've used loofa in some of my soaps. I line a pvc pipe with freezer paper for the mold. I used several layers of heavy plastic wrap for one end and used many rubberbands to hold the plastic on the end of the pvc pipe. In serted the loofa in the pipe. A 12 inch length will allow you to use 2 of the drug store loofas.
Once your soap has jelled, the loofa will be softer because it has absorbed liquid from the soap. I simply used a serrated knife to cut the round bars.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/uploads/23941_lavender_loofa_soap.jpg
As for the plastic scrubbies...I wouldn't use them. The plastic particles will be difficult on plumbing and hard on the skin.
I just picked up some seed to grow some loofa this year for making soap later! I saw some soap like this a little botique and though, "I can do that for less than half that price!!!" guess what everyone is getting for Christmas again this year.
Okay I have a question. I made some soap a while back with a friend from work. I havent been using much of it lately. But Im wondering is this something I can use when I make my homemade laundry soap?
Here is the recipe:
ALL-VEGETABLE, NO COCONUT OR PALM
56 ounces Olive Oil
30 ounces Vegetable shortening (Criso) Hydrogenated Soybean oil
9 ounces Castor Oil
12 ounces lye crystals
28 ounces cold water
2 Tablespoons salt dissolved in a small amount of hot water
This was a mistake made:
I don't think I measured the olive oil correctly. I had written down 32ozs and 24 ozs, which meant I should have done two at 16ozs to get the 32 but I think I only did one at 16.
Here is the recipe:
ALL-VEGETABLE, NO COCONUT OR PALM
56 ounces Olive Oil
30 ounces Vegetable shortening (Criso) Hydrogenated Soybean oil
9 ounces Castor Oil
12 ounces lye crystals
28 ounces cold water
2 Tablespoons salt dissolved in a small amount of hot water
This was a mistake made:
I don't think I measured the olive oil correctly. I had written down 32ozs and 24 ozs, which meant I should have done two at 16ozs to get the 32 but I think I only did one at 16.
Thank you so much, Nanakat, for showing me the way you made the loofa soap! That is exactly what I was going to attempt to do!
BYC rocks!
BYC rocks!
I've never heard of a loofah soap! Awesome. I must try it. I just started reading this thread....got to about 20 pages and skipped ahead. I'll go back and catch up a little at a time
phew! Made my 2nd batch of soap today. A dry skin bar from Mary Jane Toths goat book. Last batch was 1 1/2 yrs ago. Goat milk and honey. Still using that up. I love it!
phew! Made my 2nd batch of soap today. A dry skin bar from Mary Jane Toths goat book. Last batch was 1 1/2 yrs ago. Goat milk and honey. Still using that up. I love it!Similar threads
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