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JESUS-IS-KING

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I am going to build a coop and run. I plan on having them no smaller than 8' by 18'. If I put the coop at 8' by 6' and the run at 8' by 12' than I could at max expand to 9 chickens, correct? Also, is it better to use a hanging feeder and waterer, or put them on a brick on the ground?
 
I am going to build a coop and run. I plan on having them no smaller than 8' by 18'. If I put the coop at 8' by 6' and the run at 8' by 12' than I could at max expand to 9 chickens, correct? Also, is it better to use a hanging feeder and waterer, or put them on a brick on the ground?

Hello and welcome to BYC! :frow

It would help if you noted where you are in the world so we know your climate. You can update your profile with your general location.

The "rule of thumb" is 3-4 sq feet per bird in the coop and 10 sq feet per bird in the run. However, these are minimums. Your location and how you plan to manage them influences the final size.

For example, if you have cold enough winters that your birds will likely not roam far from the coop, you will want a larger run that can be winterized as they will spend most of their time in the run. You will want it to have many perching locations as well.

Many people who use the minimums oftentimes end up with behavioral issues. The bigger you can make it, the better.

As for elevated or hanging feeders and waterers, I go for hanging as they are impossible to tip over and adjusting their heights is as simple as raising or lowering them by a link in the chain.

When designing your coop, design in lots of ventilation over the roost heights as well as some lower ventilation (the pop door to the coop can serve for a low ventilation point).
Having windows that can be opened on each side of the coop help bring in light and will encourage the chickens to go into the coop more readily. If you plan to construct your own windows, top hinging them is best to shed water. Large overhangs all the way around the coop is also very beneficial. All windows to the coop and ventilation points (with the obvious exception of the pop door) should be backed with well secured 1/2" hardware cloth.

Completely securing the attached run (read secure roof and hardware cloth walls with 2' HC cloth predator apron) will allow you to leave the pop door open year round so the chickens can come and go between the coop and run as they please. This is the way I manage my flock and I have yet to have any behavioral issues.

I hope all this helps.

Good luck building your coop and run.
 
The 4/10 'rule' for space is a minimum, IMO.
Many other variables come into play.
3 good articles linked in my signature that all beginners should read.
 
Many people who use the minimums oftentimes end up with behavioral issues. The bigger you can make it, the better.
Yeah.... that!

Bigger, more space, makes for less issues and prettier chickens (feathers in good shape because of no pecking at each other etc.)

As to feeders:
I GREATLY recommend a feeder that uses pvc pipes into a bucket, tote or trashcan depending on your flock size.

Sorry .. can't find my picture!
 
I hang the feeder in the run to keep them from pooping in it. Waterer is too heavy to hang (vacuum type) so it rests on patio blocks. Both the feeder and waterer bases are as high as the chicken's backs.
 

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