STC 1000

[indigo flats]

What are the cabinettes made from?

 

[tantor]

Yes, I do too. My incubator is made out of an old Starbucks display cooler. I just took the fan out and turned it around so that it blows into the fridge not against a back wall.

 

[BobDBirdDog]

What are the cabinettes made from?

The ones in the phot look like modified Ice chest coolers. I have one and still use it for small hatches of 250 or less, they're as good as the craftsman and dependable.

 

[BobDBirdDog]

Yes, I do too. My incubator is made out of an old Starbucks display cooler. I just took the fan out and turned it around so that it blows into the fridge not against a back wall.

Does it make a good caramel mocha chick? lol Cool idea!

As for my DIY 48 quart cooler, I used a aluminum gutter drain,cut and 90ed the two ends (not store bought 90s) and attached a fan. I used 1/2 in blue Styrofoam insulation to make an insulate cover for the external duct (not shown), silicone and aluminum duct tape seals it well.

It works perfect on the principle of a air duct. There is a aluminum flashing heat shield (box) that covers the light bulb and fan, and has a small section cut out for the air to suck/flow thru at the very top. The air flows past thermostat and sensor, thru the heat shield where the hole is, and the air is reheated and sucked past the bulb by the fan. The hot air blows down the duct to the bottom of the incubator, over the water and the cooler air is pushed and sucked back up, thus there are no hot or cold spots due to the air flow design.The sensor and thermostat are pretty close to the same level and thus regulates the temp and humidity with no complaints.


So proud of the little junkers design I made a diagram of it.has worked flawless for years.

 

[tantor]

Does it make a good caramel mocha chick? lol Cool idea!

As a matter of fact, it does!

 

[chattery41]

Does it make a good caramel mocha chick? lol Cool idea! As for my DIY 48 quart cooler, I used a aluminum gutter drain,cut and 90ed the two ends (not store bought 90s) and attached a fan. I used 1/2 in blue Styrofoam insulation to make an insulate cover for the external duct (not shown), silicone and aluminum duct tape seals it well. It works perfect on the principle of a air duct. There is a aluminum flashing heat shield (box) that covers the light bulb and fan, and has a small section cut out for the air to suck/flow thru at the very top. The air flows past thermostat and sensor, thru the heat shield where the hole is, and the air is reheated and sucked past the bulb by the fan. The hot air blows down the duct to the bottom of the incubator, over the water and the cooler air is pushed and sucked back up, thus there are no hot or cold spots due to the air flow design.The sensor and thermostat are pretty close to the same level and thus regulates the temp and humidity with no complaints. So proud of the little junkers design I made a diagram of it.has worked flawless for years.

Could u post a pic of the thermostat/fan area of your coolerbator for non-tech savy folks ? Made a couple bators out of styrofoam and wanting to make my own cabinet eventually. Although I will probably go with 2 bulbs because my luck would have one burning out when I'm away from home for the day.

 

[BobDBirdDog]

Could u post a pic of the thermostat/fan area of your coolerbator for non-tech savy folks ? Made a couple bators out of styrofoam and wanting to make my own cabinet eventually. Although I will probably go with 2 bulbs because my luck would have one burning out when I'm away from home for the day.

Sorry if I missed your request (and a year late), the fan is screwed to the wall of the bator and pushes the air down the pipe. As for the light I bolted it to the back of the bator because of the wires and such go out to the back. I should have put two bulbs in but I didnt have room.

As you can see there are actually two heat sheilds as the light equpment I used had an aluminum sheld wich I cut down half way as to expose the bulb more to the air movement as well as make it easyier to change the bulb.

The outside larger heat sheld (the box below) is probably the key to the whole opperation as it is L shaped and is also screwed into the bator walls and taped up. It entirely encloses the light and fan. The trick is that it has a cut out at the very back (near the light) and thermostat so that the fan (up front) sucks the air from the back, past the thermostat then to the hot light bulb, and back to the fan. Its a constant cycle meaning the fan always runs and moves the air whether the light is on or not. Thus it gives a more equal temp througout the incubator.

Since the air flow is passing by the thermostat ( above) I think it gives the bator a more seensitive reading and it will trigger (on/off) more quickly. The heat sheild(s) keep the light bulbl heat away from thermostat.

Lastly, and though it is a crude fix (which I have cut myself on many times) is the front cover for the heat sheld box (below). I usually tape it shut after I am sure everything is working as I dont want the fan sucking the warm air from the front. I want it scuking the air past the thermostat and bulb, thus the hole/cut out in the back (see above image).

As the last note: the duct tape I used is the more expensive ($7) type and is actually aluminum adheasive. The cheap stuff just does not seem to hold up under the humidity and comes loose.

Well, Im sorry my reply is a year late and I am sure you moved on to a better bator of your own design by now, but here it is anyway.

 

[Hyroler]

Do those that use the stc 1000 thermostat control find that the temperature censor is acurate.

I use stc1000 with both my incubators and find it accurate.I have 2 other temp gauges in each incubator and they all read same temo.