Strong ammonia odor

[RiverOtter]

The best "spreadable barn freshener" I've ever found is lovely, cheap barn lime. NOT garden lime, although hat's better than nothing, but barn/hydrated/masonry lime. Sprinkle it thoroughly and rake it in.

As a bonus, you can make whitewash out of it

 

[chickengeorgeto]

Chickens who are fed to much protein produce feces that creates ammonia. Commercial egg laying operations (15 to 16% protein) produce little ammonia while commercial broiler-fryer farms (22% protein) produce a great deal of ammonia. Nitrogen is what protein is created from and Nitrogen is what creates ammonia. Excess protein is expelled in the chicken poop and expelled protein or nitrogen is combined with excess moisture to create ammonia. In a very real sense the smell of ammonia is the smell of money because you paid good money to feed your chickens excess protein that they can't process.

 

[Soon2BChixMom]

Chickens who are fed to much protein produce feces that creates ammonia. Commercial egg laying operations (15 to 16% protein) produce little ammonia while commercial broiler-fryer farms (22% protein) produce a great deal of ammonia. Nitrogen is what protein is created from and Nitrogen is what creates ammonia. Excess protein is expelled in the chicken poop and expelled protein or nitrogen is combined with excess moisture to create ammonia. In a very real sense the smell of ammonia is the smell of money because you paid good money to feed your chickens excess protein that they can't process.

Interesting and I dont doubt it, but why is there such a push here on byc to feed 20% protein?

 

[chickengeorgeto]

Interesting and I dont doubt it, but why is there such a push here on byc to feed 20% protein?

Instead of asking me this question, perhaps you should ask the posters you referenced for a copy of their diploma from the University of Georgia, or maybe from Syracuse University's School of Agriculture.

 

[Soon2BChixMom]

Instead of asking me this question, perhaps you should ask the posters you referenced for a copy of their diploma from the University of Georgia, or maybe from Syracuse University's School of Agriculture.

I have thought similarly regarding the nutritional posts. Thank you for your insight!

 

[chickengeorgeto]

I have thought similarly regarding the nutritional posts. Thank you for your insight!

Your welcome.

 

[aart]

Interesting and I dont doubt it, but why is there such a push here on byc to feed 20% protein?

Ehh....that's a toughy, there are different reasons.
Sometimes that recommendation is given without context and reason.

Many folks feed a low protein(15-16%) layer then pile on the treats and wonder why their birds are not producing well. Higher protein is recommended to balance out those other 'foods'.

Some folks have multi-aged and gendered flocks, calcium is not great for non layers(controversial) so an 'all flock' type feed is recommended with oyster shell available to the layers to take as needed, they usually have higher protein(18-20%).

Feather and egg eating can indicate a need for more protein, especially animal protein. So more protein is recommended.

I use a 20% protein 'all flock' type feed, but I also like to give scratch grains daily,
the rough measuring maths work out to about 17-18% protein. The higher protein is good for growing and molting birds. You have to look at overall diet and nutrition and strike a balance that works for your flock.

 

[chickengeorgeto]

If you have reasons to feed some of your flock more protein than other members of your flock then supplement your daily chicken ration with something like "Calf Manna" or a good quality dry kibble dog or cat food. One that has real honest to goodness meat, flesh, bone, and blood in it is probably best.

Below is a link to several types of blood meal. A word of caution. Some blood meals are as high as 90% protein so use them with caution.
http://www.sztaier.com/for-feed-petfood-c-2.html

The gold standard for strong and healthy chickens is their diet. And there is little better for chickens than good old fashion Calf Manna. @25% protein. All or mos derived from dairy products. This is why I often recommend "buttermilk" as the beverage of choice for baby chickens, especially once the peeps start growing. No more than 5-10% of your chickens diet can be Calf Manna. More is not bad it's just that more is unnecessary
https://www.mannapro.com/products/calf-manna/

Finally, a very good ration can be pig or hog chow. The proteins in hog chow are mostly animal based and hog or pig chow can either be fed alone or used as a base for mixing your own chicken feed.

aart, you are 101% right about to many treats being bad for chickens. I half way expect to see some holistic style chicken feed advocated soon with the main ingredient being hummingbirds' tongues, or maybe eagles' eyes. The better you know to escape danger or else to see danger coming.

 

[Soon2BChixMom]

Ehh....that's a toughy, there are different reasons.
Sometimes that recommendation is given without context and reason.

Many folks feed a low protein(15-16%) layer then pile on the treats and wonder why their birds are not producing well. Higher protein is recommended to balance out those other 'foods'.

Some folks have multi-aged and gendered flocks, calcium is not great for non layers(controversial) so an 'all flock' type feed is recommended with oyster shell available to the layers to take as needed, they usually have higher protein(18-20%).

Feather and egg eating can indicate a need for more protein, especially animal protein. So more protein is recommended.

I use a 20% protein 'all flock' type feed, but I also like to give scratch grains daily,
the rough measuring maths work out to about 17-18% protein. The higher protein is good for growing and molting birds. You have to look at overall diet and nutrition and strike a balance that works for your flock.

I can totally understand accommodating your flock's needs. I have seen many posts lately regarding nutrition that are very generic with regards to the OP and their flock. Then, pointing them to info that may or may not work with that specific circumstance. I understand there can be some trial and error in figuring out why your flock is behaving a specific way and that it could be a nutritional deficiency. But, I am concerned with new flock owners receiving information via an article that is sort of demanding that they feed their flock a certain way. That is why I am asking. As well as being a new flock owner, I am very skeptical by nature.

 

[aart]

But, I am concerned with new flock owners receiving information via an article that is sort of demanding that they feed their flock a certain way....... I am very skeptical by nature

There are many posts and articles with less than stellar information.
Skeptical is good IMO always seek more info, ask questions, and come to your own conclusions.