Suggestions on my Interior Sketch **update post #6**

[SophieLain127]

I'm planning on a 4' x 6' hen house with a slanted roof so it will be 5.5' in front and Either 5' or 4.5' in the back.

what do you think of my interior set up? I will have a heat lamp as well as an electric waterer set up in the colder months. I'm planing on hard wiring them in and then putting a plug or something with a plastic cover on the outside so I can just hook the extension cord straight up to it.

 

[sillybirds]

Looks like a good start on your coop plans.

A couple suggestions:

Depending on where you live, you may want to build in a little more pitch to your roof. I'd do at least the 5.5 ft front 4.5 ft back (not 5 ft in the back) to provide good drainage of rain (? snow). Also, depending on how tall you are, you may want to make the whole coop a little taller so you can stand up in it.

Second, is the window by the roost going to open? If yes, then it could be a little drafty for the chicks while they're roosting. If not, then they'll love looking out it while they roost.

Are those rectangles along the left side of the drawing the nest boxes? If yes, then you probably don't need that many. Based on 6-8 chickens in the 24 sq feet you have you won't really need more than 2 or 3 nest boxes. Also, I wouldn't have the roost go over the nest boxes, as it appears to do at the back left corner.

Good luck on your brainstorming!

 

[Omran]

I think it is great designe, only thing is make sure that the roost will not allow the chickens of sleeping in nest boxes, it looks that you had that part too covered, so I am sure you are fine.

 

[patandchickens]

Looks perfectly reasonable

, just a few thoughts:

You might want to have the roost a bit higher unless your nestboxes will be at floor level -- you want the roost distinctly higher than the nestboxes so there's no temptation to sleep (and thus also poo) int he boxes.

Near the window is maybe not the best place for roosts in a cold climate though -- even if you have other high-up vents elsewhere you'll use in the winter, the window itself will radiate cold (so to speak). Taping a couple layers of bubblewrap to it will decrease that a bit, but they'd still be warmer along a *wall*. Especially if you find yourself wanting to build a little hover over the roost or run a lamp or something.

You might consider swapping the locations of popdoor and food/water... the food/water are right where they'll be flapping up and down from the roost and will get extra shavings in them that way. Or actually, how many chickens are you going to have in here? I wouldn't put more than 6 especially in a wintery climate, and 6 would need only 2 nestboxes so you could lose the two nestboxes closest to the people door and use that space for feed and/or water. You can't put the food and water too close together for traffic reasons btw.

If you are proposing to run a 250w heatlamp plus a 100-125w waterer off an extension cord, make REAL SURE that you are not coming near the amperage rating of the cord or the circuit it's plugged into.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat

 

[HappyHatch'en]

It is very wise to lay out a plan and ask for suggestions, it shows me you are very well organized and like doing things right the first time...My only suggestion would be for you to double the size, believe me you will use the room....good luck!

 

[SophieLain127]

I took your suggestions and came up with a new lay out and some twists on some ideas. Let me know which you like better.

I'm unfortunately not allowed to have more then I believe 12 hens where I live it maybe less I have to apply for a permit and such. So I can't go to big coop wise.

I am planning on having the nesting boxes on the ground level because the coop itself will be sitting at least 18 inches off the ground.

The window will not open (I thought about putting it in mainly so my 2 year old daughter could look at them without actually opening a door...that could be a disaster...lol.

I was kinda of wondering about the pitch of the roof. Thanks for the advice

I'm short only 5' and since I will be doing all of the hen house keeping I only need it to be about 5 1/2 feet.


My husband has suggested using two diffrent cords running from the garage so I don't mess up his cords..lol.

I might be getting more hens in the future so I thought I would plan in advance with the nesting boxes besides I want them to be able to spread out if they want too.

I'm only planning on six hubbard golden comet hens

I was planning on having the nesting boxes closed on top so chicky poop doesn't get in but they hinge open so I can open them and clean them easily. also they will be slanted on top to stop the chickens from hanging out up there.

I could switch the hen door to the other side or in order to seperate the water and the food I could set it up this way

Also I'm planning on having my heat source wired directly on the wall about 4 1/2 feet up off the ground do you think that is high enough up. It wont be on all the time just when the temp gets way to cold.

Also they will have access to the inside at all times do I still need to have a feeder and waterer outside or is inside good enough?

 

[patandchickens]

Quote:
So there will be a bunch of other ventilation, then?

I might be getting more hens in the future so I thought I would plan in advance with the nesting boxes besides I want them to be able to spread out if they want too.

They don't want to. Really

Even if you had 12 hens, you'd still only need 3 nest boxes.

I was planning on having the nesting boxes closed on top so chicky poop doesn't get in but they hinge open so I can open them and clean them easily. also they will be slanted on top to stop the chickens from hanging out up there.

Yup, slanted top is a good design. For easy cleaning it is probably more important to have the *lip* hinged (that retains bedding) rather than the lid, so you can just push bedding straight out into a waiting bucket or onto the coop floor, rather than having to lift it up.

one possibility to consider would be having your nest boxes underneath the roost, with the box tops flat and wide to act as a droppings board (scrape off every morning and remove poo from coop for much better air quality in coop, takes literally 10 seconds). I mention it because if you did that, it'd free up a lot more floor space (I am not sure I'd want the feeder right there next to popdoor traffic, though it might be ok).

Also I'm planning on having my heat source wired directly on the wall about 4 1/2 feet up off the ground do you think that is high enough up. It wont be on all the time just when the temp gets way to cold.

I'd suggest putting the outlet as high as possible. Ideally on the ceiling facing downwards so that if the chain suspending the lamp fails, it unplugs itself as it falls (assuming you've adjusted the cord to the right length). I wouldn't do this for a brooder as there is some small chance of accidental unplugging if plug isn't snug in outlet, but for situations not involving life or death, it's a good arrangement b/c it reduces fire hazard.

Also they will have access to the inside at all times do I still need to have a feeder and waterer outside or is inside good enough?

Inside-only is FINE

Good luck, have fun, make sure to post pics when the coop is built!

Pat​

 

[SophieLain127]

There will be a foot on each side of ventilation as well as 2 feet on both the back and front. I was also thinking about making a screen door to go over the people door in the warmer months. Also there will be a roof vent.