super new here and have a bunch of questions

Imama2many (I like that name for some reason) where do you live? I don’t need enough personal information to steal your identity, just a rough idea so I can understand your climate. You might modify your profile to show this. It really helps with these types of questions.

You might follow the link in my signature to get some thoughts on room. You only have four pullets and they are all the same age so a lot of that stuff won’t apply but you might pick up some ideas. That article is more to help you think and understand, not to tell you exactly what to do. One thing I’ll mention is that chickens do not understand the concept of space in the coop versus space in the run. What they understand is space wherever it might be. How much space you need in the coop or in the run or all together will depend a lot on your management techniques and other factors. We are all unique in our climate, flock make-up, goals, and many other factors so there is not any one specific square feet per chicken that suits us all. For only four hens as you describe your set-up sounds pretty good, but that will depend some on your climate. How available is that outside area year around?

We use a tremendous number of different things we use as nests. You can make them as simple or as complicated as you desire, all the way from roll-out nest boxes to just setting a cardboard box in the corner and fill it with some type of nesting material. For nesting material some people use hay, straw, pine shavings, pieces of carpet or rags, shredded paper (not newspaper as the ink stains everything black), one lady even uses Spanish moss. People tend to care about this much more than the chickens do. I use long grass I cut and dry from where I don’t mow. It’s free for just a little labor. I like free.

As they said, chickens poop a lot when they sleep. And they tend to sleep on the highest thing available. When you lay out your coop and run, you need to position your nests, feeders, and waterers where they don’t poop in them at night. You can do that by separation. I built in a brooder to my coop I raise so many chicks out there. That brooder is under the main roosts so the top acts as a droppings board. I have another separate roost for juveniles over my nests. Again the top is a droppings board. I collect that pure poop by raking it into a bin as required and use that in my compost bin. Poop management is often a major part of managing chickens, especially in smaller spaces. We all have our unique ways to manage that.

It sounds like you have settled on nipples. I don’t use those but a lot of people do and are very happy with them. I suggest you start a new thread with a title of something like, “How do I keep nipples from freezing”. Being specific in your title will help attract the people you want to attract. You can search on here if you want and should be able to find something, there are a lot of threads on that, but with your own thread you can direct it where you want it to go. Besides if people only asked questions that have never been asked this forum would soon dry up. It’s still worth while searching so you better know what questions to ask.

However you water them it is very important to keep their water clean. The nipples help with that but your water storage area also has to keep trash and poop out. If mosquitoes can get to the water they will breed in there. Dirty or poopy water is a source for diseases.

One trick to keep the chickens from perching on top of waterers or feeders is to hang something over them so the chickens can’t get up there. A popular way is to hang an empty plastic jug like a gallon milk jug filled with sand to keep the wind form blowing it around. I cut some plywood and hung it in a way that a chicken will flip off if it flies up there.

Don’t worry about giving too much information in your posts. If you are too brief it just sparks questions or we aren’t sure how to answer.

It sounds like you are off to a good start. Welcome to the adventure.
 
........ but with your own thread you can direct it where you want it to go. ......
This made me laugh to the 'wet eyes' stage...oh, we can hope.
The rest of your post is chock full of great advice as usual.


@imama2many you've asked great questions and gotten lots of great advice, nothing I can add to it, but take a look at My Coop link under my avatar.
 
@Ridgerunner thank you! Lots of great info. I'm in the salt lake valley in Utah. Average snow fall begins mid Nov and continues to march? Average temps then I'll say are mid 30's with nights dropping to teens mostly but some single digits. Today is my day off from work and I'm gonna work a little on the chicken area. I shop for supplies at IFA. I will probably make a rip there today. I haven't "settled" on nipple quit yet, just not sure what other option would work best. In reality, I need something that is going to be lower maintenance as I head into winter. I will post more later when I get some pictures.
 
haha overwhelming is right! I thought I was so prepared, read a ton, researched, planned and now I've changed everything I started out thinking I was doing!
wink.png
I think the pellets I have are 16% protein. I'm not familiar with the oyster shell and grit? I do from time to time toss veggie scraps and egg shells out (my brother suggested this as he does this with his chickens)

Also, I totally get it with the great lamp... won't use it at all. What about a regular light bulb for light? I read that a timer will help to augment day light? And laying chickens need 14-16 hours of simulated and natural day light. Should I do this? Should we have the light source outside the coop? In the run/pen area?

They need the extra calcium in order to lay eggs with hard shells - too little calcium = soft shelled eggs = messy
roll.png

If you wish to supplement their light, a 40w bulb will do the trick for you (also adds heat). If you put it on a timer, add the 'extra' hours in the morning, otherwise the sudden lights out at night might confuse them. I don't add light, but I believe it's about 14 hours daily that you need.
You have gotten some great advice here - as you can see, we don't all do the same. You will figure out what works best for you,
thumbsup.gif
 
Last edited:
We sure don’t do it all the same do we? Each of us are unique and a lot of different things work. That’s one of the problems on this forum. So many different things work and a lot of what does work depends on our individual goals and conditions so it can get pretty confusing.

I did not keep a link and I wish I had but I recently saw an article by a poultry professional where it cleared up a lot of misinformation about how much light chickens need to lay.

First, light is very important to chickens laying and egg. It’s one of the triggers for them to release a yolk to start an egg. They need that daylight trigger to release the yolk so they don’t wind up laying at night from the roosts.

But length of day is not the critical factor. There are plenty of chickens so close to the equator that they never see 13 hours of light in a day and they still follow the same patterns as chickens that get 15 hours of light a day. Technically it’s the periods of dark getting longer or shorter but we normally talk about days getting shorter or longer but that is just a detail so I’ll use days. The days getting shorter will trigger a molt in adult chickens. Their feathers wear out and need to be replaced, food is normally not really plentiful and dependable in the wild in winter so it’s not a good time to be laying eggs and hatching chicks. So they molt and quit laying in the fall, using excess food to grow feathers instead of making eggs. By spring their feathers have been replaced and when it is a good time to raise chicks, they start laying again.

Commercial operations that micromanage their hens environment by controlling light and by controlling their feed have hit on 14 hours a day as a good length of daylight to feed them exact amounts of feed and give them enough downtime at night to recharge their bodies. If they operate where they allow natural light in, many organic operations do this, and their longest days are 15 hours, they will use 15 hours as the optimum length of day, using supplemental lights to maintain the days not getting shorter. If they are closer to the equator where the days never get that long they may use less daylight. You need to be a bit flexible when managing chickens.

Chickens are not wild anymore, they have been domesticated and we feed them well in winter. By selective breeding we have developed chickens that often do lay in winter with the days very short. They still either cut back tremendously on laying and much more often just stop laying altogether when they molt, but a lot of chickens will come back into lay when the molt is over, even if it is in the middle of winter, whether you supplement the lights or not. Pullets that start to lay in late summer or fall often continue to lay all winter, with or without supplemental lights. This does not mean all hens or pullets will do this, just that many will, especially the production breeds. The decorative breeds are generally not real good at this but some are. They are living animals. No one can give you guarantees how an individual will behave, but we can give you trends.

I’ve had pullets lay their first eggs the first of December, the shortest days of the year and still getting marginally shorter. I do not provide supplemental light. I’ve had hens finish the molt and come back into lay with the days still getting shorter. My shortest days are about 9-1/2 hours. They certainly did not have 14 hours of daylight and they were still laying really well. I’ve had pullets and hens wait until spring when the days get longer before they start. Chickens are not that consistent.

After they finish the molt hens have to make certain changes to their internal egg making factory and their bodies to get it ready to start up production. Some will do this regardless of time of year, but some need the days getting longer to trigger this process. With some hens it can take maybe five weeks before they are ready. If you extend the length of daylight with supplemental light by gradually extending the daylight time, you can get them back into lay before these would normally be ready. I see no issues at all in starting some supplemental light in the fall after they are well into the molt or maybe finishing it up to kick start that process. It can start pullets that have not started yet to lay also. But watch your length of light. If you stop adding supplemental light in the spring before they length of natural daylight matches you artificial length of day you might trigger a molt. Might does not mean always but occasionally you get some posts on this forum where that has happened.

If you add supplemental light in the fall before the decrease in daylight kicks them into a molt, you can get them to skip the molt and lay on through the winter. Lots of people do this. The problem is that hens do eventually need some downtime to rest and recharge their bodies. After a year to a year and a half of consistent laying production drops significantly. Egg quality can suffer too.

I personally like to let them follow their natural patterns so I don’t add supplemental lights. The vast majority of my hens start laying whenever they finish the molt, even in winter, so that is not an issue with me.

Each coop is different so you might need a different light than someone else. A general rule of thumb is that if you can read a newspaper in the coop, you have enough light. It doesn’t take a lot.
 
OK so I took a bunch of pics over the weekend... unfortunately... I don't know how to put them in order? So I'll do my best to try to explain each.



This is the access door behind one of my "upcycled" nesting boxes (an old milk crate) This is how we can harvest eggs.




This is the newest add on "open air" run area.




This is an angle from the other side of the open air run, looking into a covered run area that leads into the coop.




Still trying to decide which chicken is which! haha... I have 2 barred rocks and 2 Dominiques... I think this is a rock?




Front entry door to the open air run. Allows us to access the food and water.



Chickens had to check out their new digs as soon as we were finished in the coop. There is a ramp that goes from the covered run into the coop.



This better shows the coop to the left, this leads into a covered run, which then leads into the open air run.



Hanging feed and (new) heated water system (not heated yet, waiting for "freezing temps" to arrive in the next few weeks)



New roost we built in the coop. So far (3 nights with this), it has become evident that at least some of the chickens are using the roost to sleep on because there is poop in the pine bedding below.



These are the "upcycled" nesting boxes. One is an old milk crate with the back cut out to access eggs from door. The other is a plastic tote, also with back cut out to access eggs. We screwed a 2x4 in front of both boxes to better enclose the box and keep bedding in place and eggs from rolling (once laying occurs)... however... it appeared from night 1 that the milk crate 2x4 was being used as a roost as there was poop INSIDE the crate. Night 2 it was evident that at least 2 chickens were using the pink plastic container because the bedding had been "fluffed" and moved. This morning (after night 3) I noticed poop inside the plastic container also! :( feeling frustrated I can't get them to use their nesting boxes for nesting only and the roost for pooping.


I also bought a bag of oyster shells (that is crazy expensive stuff! $7 for a small bag) Saw a cute way to hang it with a wine bottle atop a tuna can with a small space so the shells will come out as they eat out of the can... but haven't made yet.

So... does this set up look ok?
 
Your nests look fine!

Your roost needs to be higher ... Higher than the top of the nesting boxes. Looks like it should be a little further away from the wall too ... They should have enough room to turn around on the roost without bumping into the wall (or pooping down the side of the wall!) and enough room over their head to not bump their head when flying up! But ... There still should be some space above their roosting heads for warm moist air to be removed via venting ...
 
OK so I took a bunch of pics over the weekend... unfortunately... I don't know how to put them in order? So I'll do my best to try to explain each.



This is the access door behind one of my "upcycled" nesting boxes (an old milk crate) This is how we can harvest eggs.




This is the newest add on "open air" run area.




This is an angle from the other side of the open air run, looking into a covered run area that leads into the coop.




Still trying to decide which chicken is which! haha... I have 2 barred rocks and 2 Dominiques... I think this is a rock?




Front entry door to the open air run. Allows us to access the food and water.



Chickens had to check out their new digs as soon as we were finished in the coop. There is a ramp that goes from the covered run into the coop.



This better shows the coop to the left, this leads into a covered run, which then leads into the open air run.



Hanging feed and (new) heated water system (not heated yet, waiting for "freezing temps" to arrive in the next few weeks)



New roost we built in the coop. So far (3 nights with this), it has become evident that at least some of the chickens are using the roost to sleep on because there is poop in the pine bedding below.



These are the "upcycled" nesting boxes. One is an old milk crate with the back cut out to access eggs from door. The other is a plastic tote, also with back cut out to access eggs. We screwed a 2x4 in front of both boxes to better enclose the box and keep bedding in place and eggs from rolling (once laying occurs)... however... it appeared from night 1 that the milk crate 2x4 was being used as a roost as there was poop INSIDE the crate. Night 2 it was evident that at least 2 chickens were using the pink plastic container because the bedding had been "fluffed" and moved. This morning (after night 3) I noticed poop inside the plastic container also! :( feeling frustrated I can't get them to use their nesting boxes for nesting only and the roost for pooping.


I also bought a bag of oyster shells (that is crazy expensive stuff! $7 for a small bag) Saw a cute way to hang it with a wine bottle atop a tuna can with a small space so the shells will come out as they eat out of the can... but haven't made yet.

So... does this set up look ok?

Looking good! I agree with 123redbeard - put your roost perch up higher and give them at least 12 from the wall as they will grow up. How to tell who's who - barred are just that barred pattern, Doms are a broken bar pattern - if that makes sense - it'll come with time!
I like the covered entrance area and I may well use that on my next project - great job!
thumbsup.gif
 
It looks good! Your coop is very tight, but it still looks tall enough to have the roost at least as tall as the nesting boxes. Raise the roost to nest box level and push it away from the back wall another four inches. That should make them happy. :) Of course, my chickens are always looking for a more interesting place to roost, so...
roll.png
 
Here's another idea ... I'm not sure how tall the coop is ... But, what if you placed a solid board on top of the nesting boxes, then placed your existing roost on top of that? Kind of a shelf, or platform directly above the nesting boxes.

Will they have enough head room? Can they still have ventilation above their heads, without a draft directly on them?

The wide board/plywood shelf on top of the nesting boxes would act as a poop board (you would have to clean it, add sand or something) and the hens would choose to roost up higher, and they would have the floor space where you have the roost sitting now ... To either walk around, or to jump up and down from the roost!
 
Last edited:

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom