SUPER NEWBIE thinking about raising my own chickens for eggs and meat but I'm SO Confused!!!

I can’t come close to guessing what your start-up costs will be. It depends on what you have on hand, what you can do for yourself, and how high your standards are. Craigslist can be a great source for materials. Chickens don’t care if it is cute or painted or fancy but in some neighborhoods the neighbors do care. If you are going to be buying all their feed it is really going to be hard for a small operation like yours or mine to save money by raising chickens even if your start-up costs are zero. If predator pressure will allow you to free range them enough where they find a lot of their own food you can do much better. But don’t look at it as saving money. Look at it as knowing where your food comes from. Those feed costs are really hard to pay out. On a half-acre, there is probably not a lot of free ranging available.

I’ll put in another pitch for something that could raise your costs. With your weather and your health, I strongly suggest building the coop big compared to the number of chickens you think you’ll want. They may spend quite a bit of time in the coop section. Plus, if you try it and like it, you may want to expand. If you have 9 hens and eat a couple, you have significantly reduced your flock size. I think you should plan on how to continually add new chickens.

My basic flock is one rooster and maybe 7 hens, though I seldom have that few. My goal is mainly meat with eggs being a side benefit. I’ll put some eggs in the incubator at the end of this month to start the annual cycle, then do the same in another few months. If a hen goes broody she’ll always get some eggs to hatch and raise. Last summer my flock peaked at 41. I still have 9 from a late broody hatch to butcher whenever I’m over this flu and I get a good weather day.

I built my brooder in the coop, right under the roosts so the top is a droppings board to collect the adult’s poop for the compost. That way it does not get mixed with shavings but goes on as pure poop. My chicks are never in the house after I take then out of the incubator. Neither my wife not me would accept the noise, dust, and smell. It’s totally not necessary if you have electricity to your coop.

My typical day involves going to the coop to feed, water, and open the pop door to let them out somewhere between sunrise and 9:00 a.m. My coop is oversized so I don’t have to be in a hurry to get down there. My coop is on the end of a storage shed so I store feed down there and I have running water there, though I carry water in the winter when it is freezing outside. Then after dark, I go down to gather eggs, close up, and top off the feed and water in the summer. That’s not really typical. I’m retired so I go down several times during the day to see who’s laying which eggs and make sure things are OK. But haven’t have to go back down there again until after dark. That’s the point.

In winter when it is freezing weather, I do the same in the morning but have to carry water. I also go down a couple of times to break ice out of the water dishes (I use the black rubber dishes so I can just turn them over and stomp the ice out of them or use a stick to break the ice.) Keeping water thawed in your winter may be enough of a reason to run electricity to your coop, which increases your start-up costs.

I clean the droppings board once every one to three weeks, depending on how many chickens I have and how bad it gets. I recently cleaned the bedding out of my coop and put it on my garden for the first time in four years. Not that I had to but I wanted it on my garden. I have an oversized coop and mine can spend most of their time out of doors. I don’t have the snow you do.

I clean nests out after a broody hatches in it or if there is a mess in there usually from a broken egg or a chicken pooped in there. It may be years. I don’t clean them out or change them out just to stay busy or really tidy. (Just teasing Linda :oops: ) The chickens don’t seem to mind.

How much your start-up costs are and how much time you spend taking care of them depends on how you set it up. Having feed and water right there is a huge convenience. I really like having electricity so I can see to work in there at night and I can keep the brooder in there. We all do things different. There are a lot of things that many of us have that you don’t absolutely have to have, but some of them make it a lot more convenient.

Good luck!!!
 
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You might consider containing your flock in a pasture fence - I do and it works great! I use electric poultry fence from Premier - easy to set up and move around.

http://www.premier1supplies.com/fencing.php?species_id=6

The chickens can "free range" in the pasture foraging for bugs and grass, cutting down on feed costs, and you don't have to worry about them leaving your property or chasing them off your back porch.

That said, they need cover, like underneath their coop, a picnic table, bushes etc. to hide from overhead predators, like hawks. I keep a rooster with my hens for additional protection and I have been blessed with crows who drive the hawks away.
 
I thought I might address your timing question. One advantage to ordering your chicks in February is that they'll be laying steadly before winter comes and they start slowing down. The dissadvantage is exactly what you just noted, that it will still be cold when they hit 6 weeks and you put them outside. The rule of thumb is that chicks start their first week in the brooder at 95 degrees and that you drop 5 degrees every week after that. (I purchased a little dimmer-switch or rheostat at Walmart for a few bucks that let me adjust the heat lamp really accuratly after having a hard time moving the heat lamp farther and farther from the chicks). Anyway, 6 weeks at 5 degrees a week means the temperature in your brooder is down to 65 degrees, and it is a big jump from 65 to whatever the nights are like in April where I am.

I know I'd be worried sick, which is why I've always ordered my chicks for arrival in April or May, so that it is warmer out when they first leave the brooder.

I think chickens are pretty low maintenance. My routine is similar to Ridgerunners above, although I use a poop slide that slides the poop from the chickens on the roosts down into a bin that I dump in the compost pile about once a week.

However, you should know that, at least in my experience, the first weeks with the babies can be a bit more labor intensive. During the first days you need to check them pretty regularly to make sure the temperature is in the right area, clean their food dishes and waterers (they poop and scratch their bedding into EVERYTHING), clean the bedding and check for pasty butt. If bending over and reaching down into a brooder on the floor to capture each chick who is firmly convinced that you are going to eat them will be hard on your joints, you might want to consider that in your brooder setup.

I think most of us use some sort of open topped box on the floor. I used a big wire dog kennel that I removed the top from. I lined the interior sides with cardboard to stop any drafts, but I liked the fact that the plastic bottom slid out for easier cleaning. You could probably leave the lid on and place the crate on a table and then access the chicks by reaching through the door, maybe creating a sill out of cardboard so that one doesn't escape under your arm while you are reaching into the back to grab another. Having it at table height might also mean that you can check each butt from chick-butt level from the outside without actually having to grab and inspect every one.

A wire crate that has exterior draft protection that you could remove to look in, either in the form of cardboard or old towels with an openable door on one side may be a better deal if reaching down to floor level over the top is painful.
 
Oh another thing, regarding the feeding of meat scraps to chickens. Chickens are basically omnivores. They eat bugs and grains yes, but I've also witnessed one of my chickens happily eating a tiny garter snake. I've heard of chickens eating mice and even baby birds that were unfortunate enough to fall from their nests. While beef is not part of their natural diet, I do not doubt that if chickens were the size of dinosaurs, we'd all be running for our lives. I can see the predator in their eyes when I show up at the run without some sort of food offering. Luna, my boss chicken, will look up at me sideways and make this "Whaaaat the heeeeck" noise and then tries to decide if my feet might be edible.

Anyway, while my dogs get most of our meat scraps, I will feed my chickens leftover lassagne and I'll scramble up for them any eggs that I gather with crackes in them (or leftover quiche etc.)
 
Your selection of dual purpose birds sounds good.
Buff Orpingtons are large and eat a lot; I would probably substitute Black Australorps or Barred Rocks since they are also large but are very good foragers.


OK I haven't heard that so I will check them out...how are they on the docile scale?


Tractor Supply will have a lot of RIR's (they will probably be called "Red Sex Links"), and they'll have some other popular breeds.
They will also have meat birds in case you want to raise those (they must be butchered at 8 weeks).


I'm probably going to stay with the dual purpose birds but why are they a must butcher at 8 weeks?

The egg layers can be butchered at around 18-20 weeks, but they won't be LARGE at that time (just more tender than an older bird).
You can butcher older birds and they make great stew meat!


Yeah, I was thinking soup and Mary makes a fantastic dish with chicken and macaroni that the chicken cooks forever...Her Mom (from Yugoslavia now Croatia) always used fresh kill chickens for this dish so the older birds shouldn't be a problem. YUMO!
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You will get an egg/day from the egg layers except when they're molting and during darker winter days.
During those times they will stop laying for weeks. (You don't have to worry much about that till they're over a year old.)


That's why I'm thinking 4 to 5 birds. In your experience is it better worse or makes no difference to get the birds from a hatchery vs. tractor supply? I figure any extra eggs I have neighbors, friends and a food pantry at my church.

Your coop size should be around 4sq-ft per bird floor space especially if you live in an area that gets a lot of snow.


I live in North East PA in the Pocono Mountains...our winters have gone everywhere to one snow fall in October to over 80 inches between November and March. That year we had snow on the ground thru the end of April beginning of May. From a temperature perspective we have gotten as cold as -14 before the wind chill those are by no means common...I guess my point is we get snow and it gets cold, a minimum of 4 sq feet per bird for the coop. The way I am looking to set it up is to have the coop on my deck and the run right off the deck. The run will be about 10 - 15 feet wide and 20 to 25 feet long. Should I plan on having a heating lamp and a light in the coop?

But if you have a garden, forget it.

LOL actually we have a ton of deer here (we view them as rural rats) so her garden is behind six feet of chain link.
Thank you SO MUCH for the response and suggestions!!!
 
I brood outside in the coop in any weather and overcome the problem of providing perfect heat to them by ignoring the problem. I don’t worry the least about what the temperature is in the whole brooder or in the coop. I just worry about keeping one small corner warm and let them go where they wish. The rest of the brooder gets quite cool in the winter. Many people would be surprised by how much time the chicks spend in the cooler parts of the brooder.

I do have some rules I follow. I provide good draft protection. I don’t want a breeze chilling them. I’ve done it long enough I don’t worry about measuring the temperature. I just know that the end I keep warm is warmer than it absolutely has to be. As long as they have an area that is warm enough with an area that is not too warm, they’ll be fine.

By allowing them to play in cooler temperatures, I’m convinced they feather out faster and become acclimated to colder temperatures. I think you will have problems moving them direct from tropical conditions to arctic.

Last Fall, I raised about 20 chicks in my brooder. The overnight lows were in the mod-40’s much of the time. When they were 5 weeks old, I moved them out to my unheated grow-out coop, which also has good draft protection. Within a few days, when they were about 5-1/2 weeks old, the overnight low hit the mid 20’s Fahrenheit. They were fine.

I know your conditions are colder than mine and your set-up will be different. A lot of people can’t do this the way I do because they are not set up for it. There are a lot of different ways you can do these things. You need to decide which ones will probably work in your conditions.

As far as the meat thing, I absolutely agree with Hummingbird. I cringe when I see someone talking about vegetarian chicken feed. That’s so unnatural! I don’t know which mine enjoy more, small snakes, mice, or frogs? Some people split fresh road kill and give that to their chickens. It doesn’t matter if it is cooked or raw, in chunks or ground up. They like meat, fat, or just “parts”. If you are into “organic” or “natural”, it doesn’t get more natural than what chickens eat.

Good luck!!!
 
I'm probably going to stay with the dual purpose birds but why are they a must butcher at 8 weeks?eks?

Dual purpose are not a must butcher at 8 weeks. The broilers, Cornish Cross, Cornish X, whatever you cal the meat birds, have to be butchered about that age or they start dying. They grow so fast they outgrow their heart and skeleton and just break down or die.

As far as I am concerned, you can eat any chicken at any age. After all, people eat quail and there is not much meat there. But I find the best time to eat a young dual purpose cockerel is around 18 weeks, never before 16 weeks. I let the pullets go longer, usually because I am eating the cockerels first and partly to evaluate their laying. You don't get nearly as much meat off a pullet but there are only two of us. My wife and I can easily make two meals out of even a small pullet so size is not the end of the world to us.
 
Thank you SOOOOOO Much!!!

Yeah I have dropped the number of birds to 4 or 5, and I am looking at different coops.

Still have to convince the Mrs. :)

Joe
 
Cool ok that makes sense...I think anything that grows so fast that it wears it self out like that is a bit unnatural and seems allot like a chicken for a factory production which is what I'm trying to get away from so I'll stay with the dual purpose birds...

Thank you again!!!
Joe
 

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