Tell me all about breeding

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Thank you everyone so much! All of you have given me excellent info that I will be using.
Our Creves are from a breeder, we are still looking for quality buffs.

Ok, but do you know their history? Saying something is from a breeder doesn't mean much unless you know how long they have been in a breeders hands. What is the reputation of the breeder? What standard was being used in selection? How closely are you birds related? etc.

Amen to that. And a breeder will be able to tell you what's wrong with them. The rarer they are, chances are the more is in need of fixing. We've been working with White Dorkings rigorously for six years, they're still not show quality, but they're improving. I'd guess they'll be in the showroom in another few years. I could give you a laudry list of their faults, but this is to be expected. They have been neglected, bred in low numbers by few breeders, for decades, The result has been devolution. The Crevecoeurs are in the exact same boat, if not even worse. Any breeder will know that and will have no problem sharing that with you. Your Creves will have a laudry list of their own. Let this not be a discouragement, just a reality check. I doubt there's a single line of Creves in the country that would turn a judge's eye with less than 5 to 7 years of serious breeding.

This might sound austere, but that's not the intention. The reality for any of us that are drawn to rare breeds is that we have our work cut out for us. My big joke is that I wish I were drawn to White Rocks.....

You should be able to procure some fairly good birds in the Buff laced polish from the Polish Breeders Club. In your stead, I wouldn't even think about a hatchery for these. Breeder stock should actually be "breeder" stock and should prove to be a nice starting point.
 
Yes, there's a fine line to tread for anyone working with a breed in recovery... on the one hand, presumably the breed has some good points, which make it worth saving. On the other hand, a breed in trouble is going to have some issues if only because of the huge array of genetic problems which try to show up in any highly inbred pool of poultry. So from a breeder's point of view, it's a back-and-forth between mindless boosterism and the sort of depressing pronouncements which keep new people from trying their hand with a breed.

CrestedGirl, if you are interested in the Crèvecoeur, that's great, welcome aboard!

My own experience of the breed is limited to two related strains, but based on that I would advise you to select for birds which have a visible V comb (even the hens), go easy on the vaulting or "soft, fleshy lump" on the head (this can cause problems if it is too large and too far forward), try to keep the crest of a size where the birds can still see sideways and down fairly well, keep track of your young birds' weight and growth rate (use legbands, weigh the birds with a scale every few weeks) and discard those with the lowest early growth rates in each sex, keep track of the rate of feathering and try to select for birds which feather out fastest. When the birds stop growing discard those of each sex who are the lightest weight and smallest. Crèvecoeurs should have a fine bone structure, discard any birds which have a massive bone structure (like a typical meat breed) or excessively thick, knobbly bones (which can signal genetic problems). Keep any birds which are extra large and fast growing, or which have extra healthy looking, glossy feathers, because these are traits you want to breed in even if the birds themselves have some other issues. Don't worry about earlobe color. The blue or white earlobe does not mean a Crèvecoeur has been interbred with other chickens. It is a trait the breed has had ever since its ear color was first recorded. The "red" earlobe is something to aim for, eventually, if you care about the standard, but it has nothing to do with breed purity. If you run into a birchen-style pale gold lacing in the hackle of some roosters, this is also not a sign of impurity. The first Crèvecoeurs described in print, in the 1850s included some with golden lacing in the hackle. You shouldn't reject breeding stock just because you notice this color pattern. If possible select for a comb which goes straight up and down, or is tilted backwards; this means the vault size is under control, and it also ensures the crest shape allows the bird to see better. Be aware of leg length, and be sure to keep some of the birds with longer legs. It looks to me as though there is a dwarfing gene in circulation within the breed, causing super short legs similar to the Courtes Pattes or Scots Dumpy. If you get rid of all longer legged birds, you may be left with reduced fertility / egg hatchability. For now, I would recommend breeding shorter legged on longer legged birds whenever possible.

So consider that my own laundry list
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There's really no substitute for close observation, keep an eye on your birds and know them well.

Best of luck to you -
exop
 

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