The Honey Factory

I'd determine if the queen is laying a good pattern first. If she's going strong and you don't want to split out a small nuc I'd tear them down. Or start Daramee method of swarm prevention.

What I find odd is that comb does not look old yet a lot of of the drone cells look as though they have been propolised in like they are trying to cover something. I'd probably tear that section out and rub wax on area to let them build anew.

As for the thymol treatment you are probably done with the first round. Don't do the recommended second round if you can't wash a mite. Add supers.
 
I'd determine if the queen is laying a good pattern first. If she's going strong and you don't want to split out a small nuc I'd tear them down. Or start Daramee method of swarm prevention.

What I find odd is that comb does not look old yet a lot of of the drone cells look as though they have been propolised in like they are trying to cover something. I'd probably tear that section out and rub wax on area to let them build anew.

As for the thymol treatment you are probably done with the first round. Don't do the recommended second round if you can't wash a mite. Add supers.
As an inexperienced beekeeper, I've always found that this hive acts a little strange. This frame is on the very edge of the hive. They have always had a tendency to favor the west facing side and that is where the bulk of the brood is located. I assume it is because of the sun setting in the west.

And yes, after thinking over it all, I've decided to go ahead and remove the Apiguard tray. Yesterday I swapped out the first tray for the 2nd. I'm probably doing more harm than good right now with my low mite counts and disturbing any egg laying patterns of the queen. I've noticed a decent amount of drone cells but also a lot of normal cells. I'll remove the tray, give them a couple of weeks to adjust, and reassess the egg laying pattern.
 
Someone on another site suggested they may have built these because of my Apiguard treatment.
They would be correct. While Apiguard can be used as a spring treatment its not recommended. At a time when a hive wants to build up the thymol disrupts the queens pheromones and workers start supersedure cells. It takes about 3 weeks for the thymol to clear out after removal and then you should get a healthy brood pattern. If not they may still replace her.
 
At a time when a hive wants to build up the thymol disrupts the queens pheromones and workers start supersedure cells.

That explains why these were on the very edge of the hive on the other side of the thymol. I still saw a lot of eggs and larvae. I went ahead and removed the tray. No reason to keep treating and disturb them if mite levels are so low.
 
My bees fly in the 40's if they have something to gather. Will fly in upper 30's if full sun and no wind. Usually first pollen here is mid April.

But this year...
SilverMapleMar20.JPG

First day of spring, March 20th, in Lyndonville, VT. That's twenty miles south of my yard and easily two weeks early. Probably bloom this coming weekend. Red Maple is a week behind that. My bees in Brownington will be bringing in pollen April 1st. No joke, that's early!
 
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Im south of Rutland and I won't see pollen until mid April, maybe.
That's when we normally start to see pollen. Time will tell but your temperatures are identical to mine and we are the same elevation. That silver maple that's about to pop is 20 miles south of my yard and 400 feet lower elevation. Trembling poplar catkins look like pussy willow right now at 1200 ft.
 

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