The Moonshiner's Leghorns

They're a good incubator but I've found that they don't hold the same temp throughout.
That is why I installed a new fan motor. The old one was worn out and did not circulate enough air. With the new motor, temperature regulates within + or - half a degree day in and day out anywhere inside the incubator.

I also have it set up in my basement where temperature tends to be very stable. When the ambient temperature is stable, it is a lot easier to regulate an incubator.

The problem I had with styrofoam incubators was temperature fluctuations. From the outside edge to the middle of the incubator was never less than a 1 degree difference. That is enough to give erratic hatch results. I had chicks hatching sometimes over as much as 5 days from day 20 all the way to day 25. Are you sure you don't have problems with eggs taking too long too hatch?
 
That is why I installed a new fan motor. The old one was worn out and did not circulate enough air. With the new motor, temperature regulates within + or - half a degree day in and day out anywhere inside the incubator.

I also have it set up in my basement where temperature tends to be very stable. When the ambient temperature is stable, it is a lot easier to regulate an incubator.

The problem I had with styrofoam incubators was temperature fluctuations. From the outside edge to the middle of the incubator was never less than a 1 degree difference. That is enough to give erratic hatch results. I had chicks hatching sometimes over as much as 5 days from day 20 all the way to day 25. Are you sure you don't have problems with eggs taking too long too hatch?
Most hatch within 24 hours. But there is often stragglers.
It's not like my hatches take 3 or 4 days and its steady hatching throughout all those day.
I've had three hatches this year that went on longer then usual but I don't automatically blame the incubator.
If the incubator was the issue it would happen every hatch, no?
Some times some chicks just take a little longer. Those cases they usually pip but take longer to get from pip to freedom.
I've also been known to set eggs in the morning then come back and pop a few more in that were laid throughout that day that evening or even the next day.
If I had hatches taking 5 days on a regular basis I'd look to make changes too.
I don't really have concerns here now about that. I set every 6 days so it would be nothing to push that back to every 7 as a first step.
 
I can believe the temp difference you talk about with the styrofoam incubators. I ran only hovabators last year but didn't have 5 day hatches then either. This year isn't a concern because I'm only using them as hatchers not incubators.
That makes me curious about what brand(s) you were running?
I've used Little Giants and imo they are junk. the newer ones are worse then the older models. I'm looking into experimenting with them again just for fun.
I was told by someone the key is keeping them in a room with stable temps. Sure that would have to be ideal and easier on the process but honestly but the purpose of an incubator and thermostat is to maintain temps. I'm not excited about having one that needs to be babied like that. Sh!t happens and I'm more interested in one that can counter those changes and still maintain.
I think there's always room to improve and my next step would be building a hatcher. I've got the idea of using the popcorn popper just to make one that has great viewing and is different. I don't expect it to be the perfect set up and hatch 100%. It would just be more for the challenge and oddity.
I've also tossed around some thoughts in my head about building an efficient hatcher that is designed around what I do and what would work best for my situation. The idea so far would be a different set up then I've seen. Working on ideas like that either for real or in my head is what gets me through the winter when I'm not hatching.
 
See the thing about me is that I hatch chicks because I love to. I work on different patterns because It is interesting and exciting to me.
I have no real interest in making money doing it. No interest in making something spectacular to release on the world. Not looking to create something to wow the APA folks and get their approval.
I honestly have no desire to get rich or famous. No need to do it for acceptance, greatness, appreciation, worthiness or anything else.
I do it for myself. It comes from within and it pays off within. It's a weird concept to most but it's what I enjoy and one of the things that brings me happiness and sanity.
My point is I'm good with my hatch rates. Like chook said with hatching chicks it will come to a point that space becomes a concern. Feed costs are a concern.
I could focus on getting nearer to 100% hatch rates or hatching more chicks quicker but what would that bring me? That would bring my hatching season to an end quicker. I have real trouble considering only hatching 6 or 7 months out of the year. It would pain me to consider doing it for only 3.
I don't often come across people that hatch upwards to 1,000 chicks a year or even ones that continuously hatch several weekly for a few months like yourself.
Now I have some questions for you that interest me.
Tell me about your program after the hatches. How long do you raise the chicks? What do you brood in? Size per how many chicks? etc, etc.
While you're in hatching season you're hatching more quicker then I am. I'd like to hear the details in your ways of brooding. There may be more interesting and useful info for me there then in the hatching process.
Of late I've also been looking into feeding and feeders that would save feed costs mainly by less waste but I'm interested in any ideas on that.
 
I've had a sportsman. I ran one for years. If I found one for $300 or less I'd.probably have one again.
Mine did have the hatcher set up in the bottom and I ran it like you're doing.
I've also used Hovabators for years. There's been many years I've ran several and nothing else.
I've always had better hatch rates in the hovabators then anything else. Don't get me wrong I love sportsmanship.
They're a good incubator but I've found that they don't hold the same temp throughout. That's kinda the nature of the best with anything bigger.
My incubator holds better temps and more evenly then a sportsman does or I wouldn't have quit working on it and started using it.
I run my hatches similar. I collect and hold my eggs in 30 egg plastic flats and set every 6 days ideally. I turn them when I can. I try to three times a day every 8 hours but sometimes I end up only doing it once or twice a day. I also don't worry about the temp when they're waiting to go in. Some times its lower then ideal but more often and more then they should be they're setting in temps higher then ideal. That's what I mean by me not handling them correctly.
I set every 6 days and move to hatchers on day 18. I use Hovabators because they work for me. Nothing hatches in the incubator so I don't have to clean it. It is literally just add water and add or remove eggs.
I hatch several different projects at the same time so I need different projects to hatch separate so chicks don't get mixed. The way I use separate hatchers and more then one it makes that easier for me to keep things separate and to keep track.
Each cycle is 6 days so that gives me 6 days for lockdown, hatch and cleaning. With the separate hatchers I empty it after hatch and then leave the plastic water tray and the plastic wire floor with dividers soaking for hours or a day in the same tub I use to move chicks to brooders. The yellow tub @KingB .
I like my set up and how it flows.

I set every 6 days and move to hatchers on day 18. I use Hovabators because they work for me. Nothing hatches in the incubator so I don't have to clean it. It is literally just add water and add or remove eggs

I empty it after hatch and then leave the plastic water tray and the plastic wire floor with dividers soaking for hours or a day in the same tub I use to move chicks
Would like to see pics of this process if possible on your next hatch.
Please.
 
@Overo Mare
At this point you need to step in and set him up with a YouTube channel...
then secure a book,and do meet and greets
then set up and offer small breeder consulting packages.
The " How I Do" train has potential.
I agree, but you seriously underestimate how difficult it is to even get a single pic from him. A whole video is going to be torture. If I ever make it there I'll just film him constantly. We'll make like a mini documentary style video.
 
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@Overo Mare
At this point you need to step in and set him up with a YouTube channel...
then secure a book,and do meet and greets
then set up and offer small breeder consulting packages.
The " How I Do" train has potential.
Yes! AT LEAST a YouTube channel if he refuses to sell eggs
 
I keep chicks anywhere from 3 weeks to 6 months. Some can be culled at hatch based on color and other physical traits such as comb type. When they are very close to desired traits, I keep them longer until I can tell for sure just how close they come to the desired feather and body traits. AI cull hens that lay brown eggs. I culled one hen that had excellent feather color with nice silver laced traits, but she had a leghorn tail.

I use 50 to 70 gallon tubs as brooders usually with 30 to 50 chicks per tub with a heat bulb and water and feed. I put the waterer up on a block of wood so the chicks are less likely to get in and drown or otherwise muck up. Chicks stay in the basement in the brooder until they are about 3 weeks old at which point I have an outside building with a chick cage that can hold up to 150 chicks with a couple of heat bulbs.

When chicks are 6 to 7 weeks old, they go out free range but with a closed room for nights. I keep feed in front of them at all times.

Another thing to know about is feed effects on hatchability. Higher protein feed can improve hatchability up to a point but it has negative long term effects on the hens. It is best to feed high protein as long as the hens are laying and drop back to lower protein feed when they stop laying.
 

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