The Old Folks Home

I never would have guessed that..... really, really?

One of the causes of hatch problems is hatching from pullet eggs. The chicks are just not all that "robust" It is also not a good idea to mix pullet and hen eggs.
NO, Really!!!

I just say that because in hatch-a-longs I can't get over how many people try to hatch their pullets first eggs.

I know they're excited, but still!!
It amazes me too. When I post that pullet eggs should not be set for hatching I get jumped on by those that say I do it all the time! It is fine! But it really is not fine. I try to set Large eggs, in the 50G range to 65G range. Jumbo eggs are hard to hatch too.
 
I knew pullet eggs would have smaller weaker chicks.... but not that they would lay smaller eggs as an adult
It would be because they start at a deficit and do not recover sometimes.

It seems likely that some will lay normally though.
 
I had this discussion with a friend recently that is a long time poultryman, poultry judge and breeds LF and bantam LaFleche.
He's convinced that some of the rare heritage breeds have become smaller and egg production (size wise) has suffered from people jumping the gun and hatching small eggs.
 
I had this discussion with a friend recently that is a long time poultryman, poultry judge and breeds LF and bantam LaFleche.
He's convinced that some of the rare heritage breeds have become smaller and egg production (size wise) has suffered from people jumping the gun and hatching small eggs.
Some old time poultry breeders say that the time of year makes a difference too. In California it likely does not make a difference but in colder places, hatching in the winter may lead to smaller bodies which equals smaller eggs.
 
I don't have a formula. I just make a chart on graph paper with days of incubation across the bottom and weights down the side. Whether individual eggs, a dozen or a tray, I weigh them at setting, calculate what the weight should be at 21 days with 13% weight loss. Draw a diagonal line between the two weights. You can then weigh on any day and chart that weight on the graph and see if they are losing enough or too much.
 
I don't have a formula. I just make a chart on graph paper with days of incubation across the bottom and weights down the side. Whether individual eggs, a dozen or a tray, I weigh them at setting, calculate what the weight should be at 21 days with 13% weight loss. Draw a diagonal line between the two weights. You can then weigh on any day and chart that weight on the graph and see if they are losing enough or too much.
Problem is someone just bought three different sized Emu eggs and was told that some maybe 30 days into incubation and some maybe only one day into it. Was trying to help him find a way to calculate what they would weigh before setting them so he would have a better idea of when they might pip. Suggestions?

-Kathy
 
wee.gif


Congratulations!
I went to Lowe's to pick up a couple large moving boxes($1.50 ea.) for temporary brooders till I get the birds moved out of the brooder house. There were about 2 pallets of boxes they had piled up from opening merchandise and they gave me 5 of them so I didn't have to buy anything.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom