The road less traveled...back to good health! They have lice, mites, scale mites, worms, anemia, gl

[Leahs Mom]

The problem with kids and roosters is that children are more their size and usually do not move with determination. Some kids are born to it and don't run when a rooster confronts them but most will flail their arms, scream and run backwards~heck, even most adults give this reaction. This is just encouragement for a rooster to continue the attack.

You really don't need to carry a stick to beat off potential attacks but a stick can be a great "guide" for livestock. If you've ever seen children working beef and pigs in the show ring they usually have a wand of some type that they use to signal that animal to turn or stand or set up for the judges. It's just an extension of their arm and it used as training tool. This can be done for sheep as well when wanting to move them...just a touch here or there on the flank or shoulder can turn them. I've implemented it with chickens with good success.

When working with children and livestock, one has to be quite clear about the objectives and you need to put in the time to help a child feel confident around the chicken. That confident stride, stance and attitude goes a long way towards the training of many animals and also works on chickens. When Toby was little he was treated like the rest of the flock..only handled when necessary and in a calm manner. Toby transitioned into sexual maturity without any display of power towards humans and can be taken off the roost and worked with no problems. This is important when dealing with big roosters and Toby is a large and heavy guy.

Any bird at any time can flap and claw when picked off the roost and the person's reaction to that demonstration goes a long way towards establishing mutual trust and respect. My boys were prone to getting excited when this happened and would almost drop the bird by trying to avoid the commotion, but it's important that you let the bird work it out while you hold them gently but firmly. That bird needs to know that you aren't going to hurt him, drop him or otherwise disturb his equilibrium. They soon calm down. All movements around livestock should be deliberate and with some slowness...quick movements get them into high alert. It's just instinctual for them to react to this type of movement in a defensive or flight action.

There is only one time I advise quick movement around a rooster and that is immediately after an attempted or full attack happens...this needs to be confronted in a calm and assertive manner and then a very quick correction needs to happen. If you've trained your rooster properly from a youngster, it's likely you won't get to this point. But if you obtained a rooster from somewhere else that has not had sufficient training, you will need to know how to train him real quick and in a hurry. I've never had to use this method more than once.

This is where the rooster stick comes in real handy. I'll give you an actual example: I was given a 6 mo. old rooster, one truly beautiful and extremely large specimen, that was calm and fine when he first got here but was soon to start feeling his hormones...previous to this point he had been in a bachelor's pen. One day I'm walking past him with my egg basket(empty) and he ran up and attacked the basket. I shoved him off the basket and stepped over to the coop to get the roo stick and went in to feed. When you feed once a day, everyone comes to the coop when it's feeding time! I waited until the rooster came in the coop and was starting to eat and then I gave him a sharp but light tap on his butt..right on the fuzzies. He jumped and looked around and I was already repeating the action. He ran for the pop door. I waited...he tried to re-enter the coop and I hit the door facing really hard with that stick so that a resounding "THWACK" happened right in front of his face. He ran. He came back and tried to get in the coop, I hit the door facing again. He retreated. Then I let him in but everywhere he went in the coop I was touching his back with that stick until he was dodging and ducking to avoid it. Just when I had him frantically looking for a way OUT, I hit the floor of the coop hard with the stick and the sharp crack sent him streaking for the door and across the yard.

End of first big lesson.

I went about my business but the rest of the day, as I went about chores, I tested his reaction to me...I'd deliberately walk near him to see his reaction. If he didn't immediately try to avoid me, I'd lunge in his direction and stamp my foot on the ground. He RAN like a scalded dog. Only had to do this twice before he got the message. After that I'd deliberately confront him when I walked amongst the chickens, move in his direction and focus on him. He always kept about 10 ft between me and him. Wise rooster.

If you'll notice roosters, they are the kings of the surprise attack..one minute you are walking along and minding your own business and suddenly you have this feather duster raging at you from out of nowhere. I simply turn the tables on them and give them surprise "attacks". Never had to repeat this simple lesson for any rooster in my care. The ones I raised from chicks never had to be taught the lesson at all.

For children raising cockerels for showing, working with an adult that has a calm assertive attitude towards the birds will teach them the same manner. Have them wear protective clothing, show them how to hold and handle the bird, particularly if the bird is struggling. Teach them to respect the pointy parts...very important for them to be aware and wary, but not scared. If a rooster advances towards their position, they need to advance also and stand their ground. If the rooster continues the attack, the training stick can be utilized on the ground in front of him. The stick can be a real tool and an extension of the arm, not a defensive weapon. It can give a youngster added confidence to have one with him when he first starts training the roosters. Placing the stick between him and the rooster can give him time to sidestep the point of attack and then retaliate with an instructive touch on the rooster. A good sharp tap on the fuzzies can send the rooster boot scootin' in the opposite direction.

To simply train a young cockerel with the stick, you just wait until feeding time and he is relaxed and eating...and just touch him lightly but firmly..like a tap.. on the back..enough to get him moving. Keep doing it until you have him going in the direction you want. When he starts in that direction, ease up. He has learned that he won't be bothered if he moves in a certain way in response to the stick. For a kid, this can be a fun thing to do without causing too much tension between the bird and the child. Just a simple guiding touch with the child in control. Confidence booster for the kid and a lesson for the rooster. When he is finally responding to the stick, then let him be and reward him with letting him eat. It can all be real fun if it's done as a planned session instead of a knee-jerk response after an attack. Don't wait until they are sexually mature to start this training.

Calm, quiet and assertive are what the child needs to learn and the animals will soon recognize someone they can trust and respect. Toby hasn't forgotten his training from his younger days when I used the stick to move him around or out of the coop. Now I don't even need to use the stick, I merely point towards the door and take a step towards him and he leaves. It's fun to reinforce the training now and again to refresh their memory.

Very instructive and helpful to me, a total newbie and a "rooster owner wanna-be".

 

[arkansaschicks]

Thanks Bee I guess when you are new at something like the FF, I have been worried that I was doing it wrong and would end up growing mold I think I am getting it down now. Yes, you are right about watching poop, it can get you a little crazy. My chickens only sleep in their coop so they have tubs of sand under their roosts so I just scoop it out like cat litter. It helps keep their area clean and also enables me to be aware of any changes in their health.

 

[Rachel'sFlock]

I had to laugh about the small, saggy pumpkin.....

You'll have to let us know about any changes in the flock after you are on the FF for awhile. I always like hearing those...it always amazes me and it's just a simple thing, really...put the feed in a bucket and add water and ACV, wait, feed..good things! That's my kind of livin'.

I am looking forward to some nice changes in the flock, and to reporting back on them. It seems everyone (over the age of 1) is molting in some stage, and the egg production is awful (I know, the time of year). The chicks, now 10 weeks old, are growing like weeds and I am looking forward to their being in fine shape when their first eggs come.
I made way more FF than I intended, and almost overflowed my bubbling cauldron (literally, it is in a plastic Halloween cauldron). I expected them to eat way more of it at a time than they do. Now I have figured out how much to feed, and how much I need to add daily to the mix.

My one question is, should I feed twice daily, or only once? They do free range over 2 acres of clearing and forest, from daylight to dusk, and this is a definite feed supplement.

Thanks again for the thread and for all the help!

 

[Beekissed]

That is entirely up to you. If you have good forage and you want them to get a lot of their nutrition from that source, then feeding one good meal a day is fine. I've been doing that for years with good results. The only thing I change for the seasons is when I feed the meal. Right now the ground is still soft and there is still forage to be found, so I'm feeding around 3-4pm. When the cold deepens and the ground is frozen more often, snow, etc. I will be feeding a morning ration.

 

[Rachel'sFlock]

That is entirely up to you. If you have good forage and you want them to get a lot of their nutrition from that source, then feeding one good meal a day is fine. I've been doing that for years with good results. The only thing I change for the seasons is when I feed the meal. Right now the ground is still soft and there is still forage to be found, so I'm feeding around 3-4pm. When the cold deepens and the ground is frozen more often, snow, etc. I will be feeding a morning ration.

Thank you, Bee!
We live in a very temperate climate, and our ground is rarely frozen. I will feed once a day, unless we have a hard freeze, I guess. At the moment I can see they are getting enough from the one feeding because there is still the remaining dry feed in their feeder. When it is gone, I am taking it out of the coop.
Thanks again for the advice.
Results report to follow!!!

 

[delisha]

I just got an email for a woman who purchased a chick from me 3 months ago. They were about 6 weeks old. She wanted a hen. I am usually pretty good at sexing birds, but, apparently not this time. She said its a cockerel and attacking her children. I just processed all my dang cockerels and two extra hens I did not need. Things happen. Guess I get to butcher this weekend dangit. Learned another lesson. Don't sex chicks.

 

[Wax Myrtle]

Bee, thanks for your long post about cockerel behaviour. You put into words what I think I knew already, but hadn't articulated. I do remember now that if I walk within a few feet of my roo, he will sometimes do the stand tall and flap, and I just naturally turn toward him and make him move out of my way. Didn't realize I did that til I read your post.

Hmm...will have to do some chicken school with the kids, then. They're just getting past some violent reactions to things after being treated violently by some other kids, so I think we may need to do some role playing with Mama as cocky chicken.

What are your thoughts on a five week NH cockerel who already randomly beans felloww chicks, and stomps everyone he can? He was touched when I brought him out of his shipping box, and I weighed him once a week or so ago because he looked bigger than the CX in with him. (He wasn't heavier, but his frame is much larger already.) Wish I had fingernails, I'd bean him, I think. TBH, I've already been thinking of him as tasty fried with gravy and mashed potatoes, but...

 

[Beekissed]

Too young to judge properly. Give him time amongst a flock of older hens and your pretty rooster and let them put him in his place....

Time wounds all heals.

Wouldn't be too early to start training him yourself also. Never too early to correct undesirable behavior.

Now, once he gets some age on him and you still notice unsociable behavior, then I'd eat him. No sense keeping nasty chickens when there are so many nice ones.

 

[Miss Lydia]

I'm watching this with our young cockerel, we just killed and ate our 3 extra roos and he is left with 15 hens and 1 dominant roo. I have been watching the girls show this young coclerel the ropes so to speak, Very interesting.

 

[galanie]

Too young to judge properly.  Give him time amongst a flock of older hens and your pretty rooster and let them put him in his place....   Time wounds all heals.    Wouldn't be too early to start training him yourself also.  Never too early to correct undesirable behavior.

Now, once he gets some age on him and you still notice unsociable behavior, then I'd eat him.  No sense keeping nasty chickens when there are so many nice ones. 

 

Mine does that "warning call" when I come close that they all ignore. It makes me laugh. But he's 8 months and yet to challenge me. If he does, he's in the pot. He's never been handled or coddled, is broody raised, and won't even think about eating out of my hand. Which is fine with me. I do approach him in a confident manner and will bowl his butt over if he stands his ground. And he moves. But he does give me the idea that some day, he will challenge me. That will likely be his last day. He's not wanted for breeding but since he's been so good to the wimmen here, he's gotten a pass. Soon as he isn't nice to THIS "wimmen" then it's all over but the tastin'.