The road less traveled...back to good health! They have lice, mites, scale mites, worms, anemia, gl

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It says a lot about this group of people that "angry vent" is our number one most recent pic at least once a week. I love it. The funny thing now is I don't even get to the post with the pic when I notice it on the right. It's the"mouth" that gets me every time.

Me too! Never fails to make me chuckle!
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I would never spend all day with my chickens to check poop. A chicken poops 100 times a day. How do you know all her poop is watery?

I have tubs with sand under their roosts and I scoop out their poop everyday like cat litter. I want the chickens to have a clean environment to sleep in and its easy. Since I started the FF almost 2 weeks ago her poop has been watery and she is losing weight. They go to bed around 5:30 and get let out at 6 am. That whole time she is pooping watery poops and that is not healthy. She is a very good layer and has been for 2 years and I do not want to lose her.
 
I can understand that. If she is losing wt. then that is another matter. I don't think it's caused by the FF but could possibly be a heavy worm load. This is where I would cull but I'm thinking you don't want to do that so you might think about dosing her with a special treat of pumpkin seeds and garlic for three days and see what happens. Maybe a dewormer delight Johnny cake?
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That's good to know! My chickens have all sloughed but two, Toby and Turkey still have a few scales that are holding on.

Now, for the FF and winter temps..some folks are using heated dog bowls. They are about the same cost as a heat mat for seedlings and sometimes the heat mats are less...see on Amazon here:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...words=heating+mat&sprefix=heating+mat,aps,181

There's one for a windowsill that would be ideal attached to the underside of a trough feeder.

I've always wondered if these heat mats - or the heated dog/cat mats - would work to put below brooding chicks when you brood outside in the hen house. Of course you'd put whatever bedding over the top of the mat. Has anyone tried either these or the pet mats for a brooding base?
 
So Bee, you don't feed in the morning, because you want them to forage right? And if they wake up hungry, and the trough is empty, they forage?
Here's my biggest problem. My big girls travel all over the acre backyard space..the Cochins do not. Do you think, if they're hungry, they'll move out more looking for food?
I've been letting them out mid morning, but they've all already eaten by then and they continually go back in the run to eat more. So I'm thinking of not feeding them and opening the run door right away.
 
I can understand that. If she is losing wt. then that is another matter. I don't think it's caused by the FF but could possibly be a heavy worm load. This is where I would cull but I'm thinking you don't want to do that so you might think about dosing her with a special treat of pumpkin seeds and garlic for three days and see what happens. Maybe a dewormer delight Johnny cake?
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I was only thinking it was the FF because maybe she is not eating it. Maybe she is refusing to eat the FF or maybe I need to put out more. Everyone else has huge poops every night! I know it is not worms because up to 4 months ago I was one of those that dewormed every 6 months for 3 1/2 years with Valbazen and fenbendazole and have never seen worms or signs of worms. I now have been just doing natural dewormers like pumpkin seeds and garlic. I guess I might need to separate her for a little while to make sure she is eating.
 
Yes, if they are hungry, they will forage better. That's why I feed in the evening...it really does make a difference in how much foraged foods they consume and it makes them exercise. When the ground freezes and the forage is lessened, I just feed in the morning...but they still get out and try to forage even then.
 
I was only thinking it was the FF because maybe she is not eating it. Maybe she is refusing to eat the FF or maybe I need to put out more. Everyone else has huge poops every night! I know it is not worms because up to 4 months ago I was one of those that dewormed every 6 months for 3 1/2 years with Valbazen and fenbendazole and have never seen worms or signs of worms. I now have been just doing natural dewormers like pumpkin seeds and garlic. I guess I might need to separate her for a little while to make sure she is eating.

She could be in renal failure. Are you feeding high proteins?
 
I've always wondered if these heat mats - or the heated dog/cat mats - would work to put below brooding chicks when you brood outside in the hen house. Of course you'd put whatever bedding over the top of the mat. Has anyone tried either these or the pet mats for a brooding base?

I have wondered the same thing...
 
FF question:
My 3 month old kitten is obsessed with the FF manufacturing area. He will eat it and drink the back slop if given the opportunity. I keep the lid on it when I am not stirring or straining, but invariably he always gets a blob of it each time.
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Should I be concerned?
(now, if he starts laying eggs, I will be giving it to him in his own bowl!
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My 2 dogs regularly snack on the FF when the make shift lid I have for it comes off because I forgot to put the piece of firewood on it. They are still doing well....besides I figured if the chicken poop doesnt make them ill after they eat it why would the FF which is the beginning process of chicken poop hurt them?
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Quote: I would say for my 4 hens they get about 1 1/4 cups of FF every morning. I am using a small black plastic bowl about 4 inches in diameter about 3 inches deep & its filled to the top.
Hey everyone - Bee has given us so much wonderful information. I'd live to know what tidbits you personally have found the most helpful, the most surprising or have made the most impact on your chicken keeping!
1. Healthy happy hens are much easier to keep then sick hens.
2. Let chickens be chickens. Don't hold, coddle, diaper or snuggle with your hens. They lose their in bred chicken traits & can no longer forage, watch for predators or stay healthy.
3. Chickens are self insulated they dont need heated coops. Dont believe me? Stick your fingers under there feathers on a 20 degree night & surprise yourself with the heat they give off. I did & was surprised.
4. Natural feed/care is better & less work. Back on the prairie days they didnt have $$ or chemicals to deworm, antibiotics, or other meds to treat their chickens. Pumpkin seeds, ACV , whole grains are what they used then & their chickens thrived
5. Chickens dont care if they dont have a state of the art chicken mansion. Use & reuse what you have at home & be creative. My hens are not sad I reused siding, lumber, bowls, etc.
6. Deep litter is the easiest & best way to go. No daily/weekly of cleaning out the coop & runs. Once a week or so stir everything up & once a month or so add some bedding. No fuss no muss & my hens are very healthy
7. Chicken poop......it happens..... dont stress on what its shape,smell, consistency is today.
8. FF is the best way to feed. Less food consumption, healthy hens, glossy feathers & the BEST part is.....NO MORE SMELLY COOP/RUN

I could go on & on but these are the most important things to me.


As for ACV helping in the FF not freezing your right. My mom cleans houses & she leaves vinegar in her car throughout the winter & it never freezes. And we have cold winters
 
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