Thermometer?

[leaddog]

I purchased an incubator by a "Famous" maker. The turner was an option so I bought it too. Both had a thermometer in the box.

Why include an itty bitty thermometer marked in 2 degree increments when the goal is 99.5 degrees?

I tested theses gems of precision against two well regulated and recalibrated food service thermometers that I have from a previous life. A hair under 100 degrees on these thermometers was 92 on one freebie and 94 on the other. Is this common?

Finally, how critical is the difference between 98, 99, 100, and 101 in the incubation process? I know that with humans "normal" 98.6 is not necessarily eaveryone's normal temp, I assume it is the same with chickens.

I am running the temp at a hair under 100 on the good thermos. I think the freebies are going in the trash.

The eggs have been in the incubator for a week, now. They are brown so it is more difficult to see, but it appears that all of them are maturing.

This is my first attempt at incubation. Coincidentally, the next morning after starting these eggs, one of my Wyandottes decided to roost on 10 of her own. This could be fun!

 

[Intheswamp]

Most folks pitch these thermometers, though I'm not sure that they couldn't be adjusted to read a specific temperature correctly. Whatever the case, I believe most folks use something else usually digital.

The digitals should be compared to a known precision thermometer such as a digital medical thermometer (good to about .2 degrees resolution) to determine their variances.

A "hair under 100 degrees" is fine for a forced air incubator. A still air would be 101F-102F.

Best wishes,
Ed

 

[leaddog]

I'll get one of the digitals. Thank you for the idea.

The fan, another option, was not in stock when I bought everything else. It should arrive Monday or Tuesday. No doubt with another junk thermometer.

I did mark the cheapos after the incubator settled at the "Hair under 100" on the good ones.

I do not know if it makes a difference; the end of the probes on the good thermos are in between the eggs and at the height of the top of the eggs.

 

[Intheswamp]

It sounds like your probe is positioned at the right place...top of eggs. Some folks use a water wiggler to replicate the temperature inside the eggs...some folks don't.

The fan will help to stabilize the temp throughout the incubator but their can still be hotspots in places...move the probe around a little to see if you detect some (hotspots that is).

One thing that I will be doing come hatch time (once I get my incubator up and running) is probably move the eggs to a still-air incubator or either simply unplug the fan. Seems that some folks have a problem with the fans drying out the egg membranes as the hatchlings try to hatch.

Best wishes,
Ed

 

[leaddog]

Quote:
You are suggesting that it is a good idea to unplug the fan when I take the turner out?

 

[Akane]

Just run a higher humidity in a forced air instead of turning off the fan. Increased oxygen is good for the hatching chicks and if you turn off the fan you will end up messing with the temperature.

Eggs will incubate between 98-102 quite well. 96-103 are the maximum ranges. You don't want it over or below that and you don't want it to stay there too long but they will continue to incubate (but slowly) if they are within that range. 99.5 is just the goal for a forced air and about a degree higher for a still air. Still airs tend to have a range of temps throughout the bator so the ones in the middle may be 102 while the ones on the edge are 98. I've still had good hatch rates with most on time in my still air incubators by rotating which one are in the middle.

 

[leaddog]

Quote:
So how do I go about adjusting the humidity? The machine that I have has little water troughs molded into the bottom. I filled them and heve been checking them every couple of days. They are still full.

 

[Mrs. Glassman]

Quote:
So how do I go about adjusting the humidity? The machine that I have has little water troughs molded into the bottom. I filled them and heve been checking them every couple of days. They are still full.

Humidity is controlled by surface area of the water, not the amount. If you need more humidity, you could use wet paper towels or rags. They would have to be re-moistened once they begin to dry.
For less humidity, you would only fill one or two of the troughs.
Experiment to figure out how to get the levels you want.

 

[leaddog]

It appears that in addition to a better thermometer, I should get a hygrometer too.

I assumed that as long as the water was available to evaporate there was enough humidity in the air.

 

[Intheswamp]

Quote:
I'm not familiar with how the fan kits work with the still-airs....the kits are positioned to incorporate the vent holes?

Oxygen is definitely needed, especially during the end of the incubation period and at hatching. I think that I'm still going to switch over to still air for the hatch.

leaddog, I would definitely get a hygrometer to have a rough idea of the humidity. You might want to "calibrate" the hygro unit....do a search for wet salt method .

Best wishes all,
Ed