Tin versus Acrylic roofing panels

[billfields]

Quote:
I do understand the reasoning behind putting them in the peaks---rivers run in the valleys--but if the screws seal, which is the idea behind the expensive ones isn't it, then what does it matter?

I am thinking strongly toward tin fastened in the valleys

 

[pride&joy]

I have used both tin and acrylic and prefer the tin by far. I used the acrylic thinking natural light but (at least down here in hot humid South Florida) it was to much sunlight and heat. The tin ones are far stronger and more likely to survive a branch or breeze. I use 2x2 supports on the rafters and screw into the valleys with the special/expensive screws. So far so good my only preference for the acrylic is it is easier to work with, meaning lighter and not as sharp.

 

[7L Farm]

Quote:
I do understand the reasoning behind putting them in the peaks---rivers run in the valleys--but if the screws seal, which is the idea behind the expensive ones isn't it, then what does it matter?

I am thinking strongly toward tin fastened in the valleys

I fastened mine in the valleys. Its working fine.

 

[bywaterdog]

Acrylic is wonderful for about 18 months, then it shreds( at least in my southern climate.)

When I was younger, the owner of the local bar that I frequented on a daily basis told me that a "tin roof" drink was the best. Well, I had to ask why?, then she explained that a "tin Roof" drink was the best, " because it's on the house"

Never paid for another drink after I learned how to order.

 

[puredelite]

As a builder by trade i would advise you to forget the acrylic as it tends to become brittle after a few years due to the hot sun. Check the yellow pages for a metal roofing retailer or wholesaler and go with a 29 ga. metal. The sheets cover 3' and have really come down in cost over the past couple of years due to it's popularity. I have it not only on my new coop but also on my barn and my house. In my area there are two factories where it is made and one can buy either the "cut-off's" leftover's from large orders for a dollar or more less than the standard price. Screw it down in the flats with the neoprene washer'd screws. I also would suggest nailing 1x4's or 1x6's perpendicular to your rafters on 2' centers and screwing the roofing on it. Have fun on your project!

 

[patandchickens]

Generally speaking metal roofing makes more sense in most situations, if you're just concerned about price and function.

The best way to let "natural light" in is through panels in the SIDES of the coop (windows or non-openable clear or translucent panels), not thru the roof anyhow... especially in Tennessee where summers can get hot.

Are you sure the plastic was acrylic, per se? The most commonly-sold things I've seen are PVC (which is cheap but brittle, and does not stand up to heat, cold or hail well, and won't last super long) or polycarbonate (which is actually quite durable and resistant to weather/heat, but is noticeably more expensive).

You generally need the same number of purlins (supports) for plastic panels as for metal ones -- no more than 24" apart o.c. So I do not expect you are going to save money there. However one thing you DO save money on is that with metal roofing you do not need those wavy-shaped filler strips, which ARE NOT OPTIONAL for plastic roofing unless you wish to screw through the valleys and have the plastic roof leak and rot out the purlins. (YOu can screw through valleys in metal roofing without this problem, in most cases, because you are not predrilling the holes large, the way you have to with plastics to account for the degree of thermal movement)

Honestly I think the smartest and most functional thing would be a metal roof, with large window(s) and/or translucent panels in the WALLS of the coop. Structurally more sound and durable, and won't overheat.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat

 

[Judy]

Like many in my area, we use tin on everything. I have screwed it into the peaks, the valleys and the flat area. Flat area it is. For a coop or other small structure we use 1x4's perpendicular to the rafters on 2' centers. I have a 20+ year old shed where the rafters are even wider apart. Worked fine.

 

[patandchickens]

As far as whether TIN should/can be screwed on peaks or on valleys, let me just say that there has been VERY EXTENSIVE debate of this issue on BYC in past years, and it appears that *both* ways are manufacturer-recommended, depending on either the manufacturer or the geographic region or something like that (I have still not figured out exactly what the reason is for the differences, but it is clear that a legitimate split in opinion exists even among the people who MAKE the stuff

) Personally I think the take-home message is: look around to see what's common in your particular area, and what the manufacturer of your roof tin recommends, and then do that. (For what it's worth, in the snowy northeast it is most normal IME to screw through ribs)

Plastic roofing is different. It requires oversized holes to be predrilled to permit the (fairly large) thermal movement of the plastics. If you do not predrill the oversized holes as per mfr specs, you can realistically expect your roofing to crack and fail over the next coupla years. However having those oversized holes means that it is much riskier to screw through valleys, because you cannot count on the washers of the screws totally and perfectly waterproofing those holes. Any water that penetrates the washered screwhole will rot your purlin and weaken the attachment of your roof panels to your framing.

IMO, the degree to which it sucks to have half a roof blow off in a storm is so large when compared to the minor cost of the wavy filler strips, I would NEVER advise skipping them with plastic roofing panels.

JMHO,

Pat

 

[billfields]

Thanks to all of you...this has been really helpful stuff! Never gave a thought to how long the plastic/acrylic would last. That alone pretty much says tin. I appreciate all your input! I'm going with tin and I'm probably gonna put the expensive screws in the valleys

 

[billfields]

Thanks to all of you...this has been really helpful stuff! Never gave a thought to how long the plastic/acrylic would last. That alone pretty much says tin. I appreciate all your input! I'm going with tin and I'm probably gonna put the expensive screws in the valleys