To build OR not to build? That is the question. Tractor OR Traditional?

[Spitzboyz]

I have a coop question in regards to the height of a coop requirements! Would a chicken tractor (lower cost) with 4 foot tall ceilings accommodate my birds or should I continue building a lean-to shed style coop with 8 foot tall ceilings (cost higher)? I do plan on later building a much nicer coop as time elapse anyways.

If I have a flighty breed would the ceiling height be a problem or should a flighty bird have taller ceilings? I plan on having a large run with 8 foot tall ceilings in addition to the coop.

The big reason for the question is that I have acquired a large amount of re-purposed wood of different sizes and to keep cost down, I could build a tractor for much less, even a very long one at that. Of-course with shorter ceilings to conserve lumber.

Your help is appreciated!

 

[Hooligans7]

I have a coop question in regards to the height of a coop requirements! Would a chicken tractor (lower cost) with 4 foot tall ceilings accommodate my birds or should I continue building a lean-to shed style coop with 8 foot tall ceilings (cost higher)? I do plan on later building a much nicer coop as time elapse anyways.

If I have a flighty breed would the ceiling height be a problem or should a flighty bird have taller ceilings? I plan on having a large run with 8 foot tall ceilings in addition to the coop.

The big reason for the question is that I have acquired a large amount of re-purposed wood of different sizes and to keep cost down, I could build a tractor for much less, even a very long one at that. Of-course with shorter ceilings to conserve lumber.

Your help is appreciated!

Yes, you can build a functional coop with your lumber, provided you have enough of it and can re-saw it as necessary. Four feet for the coop ceiling is fine, even for flighty birds, and you can build the coop on a raised platform for easy access and cleaning. You can place linoleum over the floor for easy clean out, or have a joist-supported, welded wire floor if you live in a warm-enough climate. The space created under the coop can be part of an enclosed run for your chickens.
If you build a chicken tractor, find its balance point and attach the wheels there. That way, the wheels support the coop's weight, not your back. All you do is push or pull it around. Or, you could put wheels on all corners, with one or both sets on swivels. Buy large-diameter wheels that can handle the weight and won't sink into the ground.
Let us know what you decide and feel free to ask more questions.

 

[Spitzboyz]

Thank you for your response! The information is awesome. I decided to modify my plan to a large waist high coop. I call it a modified tractor-traditional style. I'l post pics and details soon. I think my design will work out great. The only thing I am having a problem with is the floor and ceiling rafters. I have plenty of 2x4's from my wood pile but I'd have to buy 2x6's. I don't plan on alot of human traffic in the coop and feel that the birds could be well supported by 16" center 2x4's for rafter's and floor joist instead of the traditional 2x6's which would cost me a little extra in my case. How do you folks feel about this? Opinions?

Thanks again!

 

[Hooligans7]

You're welcome! Let's discuss your coop's framing. Heavy lumber isn't necessary for a chicken coop (stationary or movable) unless you live in an area with perpetually high winds and snow load. Even large-breed hens seldom weigh over 8 pounds, so 2 X 4 framing is really overkill unless it's quite a large structure with long spans.

I had some reclaimed 2 X 6 utility lumber that I ripped and doubled my supply. The re-sawed dimensions were 1.5" X 2.75", essentially 2 X 3, which I used for all above-ground framing on 16-inch centers. Working with the short spans of a chicken coop, 2 X 3 lumber makes a very strong and rigid structure. I am 6'1" and weigh north of 200, and the 2 X 3 floor joists supported me with no flexing at all. I used the same lumber and spacing for the rafters, then attached 1 X 3 purlins for a metal roof (a recycled above-ground pool surround — free). I used diagonal bracing wherever possible to prevent racking.

For longevity, use pressure-treated lumber for the ground sections, and any other exposed lumber and siding will benefit from two coats of paint or wood preservative.

Congratulations on coming up with your own design. While it's still on paper, try to think through everything you and your chickens will be doing with it and in it. Allow for food, water, roosting poles, and nesting boxes, as well as door(s), windows, and other means of ventilation. And, of course, have fun with it.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Even using 2x4’s your tractor is going to be so heavy you will have extreme trouble moving it with something pretty powerful to pull it unless it is so small you have to move it a lot and still can’t accommodate many chickens. You’ll have trouble moving it by hand even with big wide wheels if your ground is uneven or soft when wet. Keep it as light as you can. I’m not sure why you would need a 2x6. If you have some free and have a good table saw, you can rip them into 2x3’s to save weight.

If you build a tractor, don’t put a floor in it. Use the ground as your coop floor. Save as much weight as you can. Build a frame and cover most of that with wire. 24” will be high enough even with your flighty birds. But build the coop higher so you can put roosts in. Here in our climate you are going to have hot summers. Ventilation is key. I’d build it high enough I could have roosts with openings over that. Put a sloping roof with overhang so rainwater will run off and put plenty of openings under that overhang. I’d put some kind of paneling around where they are roosting, but just enough to keep a direct wind form our thunderstorms from hitting them directly.

The nests can go on the far end. That will help balance the weight and keep you from having to go even higher with the roosts. Somehow you will need to come up with a dry place to put the feed. You don’t need to keep the water dry.

You’ll need something better for our winters. If you are going to commit to having that nicer coop ready by maybe November, you can get buy from now until then with something really minimal, not much more than a wire frame with a protected place to sleep out of our thunderstorms.

When you build your nicer coop, consider incorporating whatever you build now, maybe at the far end of the run. I’d even suggest partitioning the run so you can close a gate and give some of that run to this coop. I find a second coop with a bit of run really handy for integration, isolating an injured chicken, or for use as a grow-out coop. It gives you a lot of additional flexibility when managing them.

Good luck with it. You might have to get a bit creative with repurposed wood but that is a huge bonus as far as costs.

 

[Spitzboyz]

I've learned a great deal of building detail from you guys and this has been a wonderful experience so far. I had a friend whom offered to help myself build my coop but he was an ex-contractor and insisted on the 2x6 and 2x4 method. I have decided to go ahead and use the much lighter and less expensive 2x3's with 16" centers with a lean to roof of the same, metal attached by purlins. I'll use treated lumber as a base. I've realized it's really important to make it as light as possible, even if I do call it a modified tractor! This way I'll be able to move it later if I wish since I have a large piece of property and the birds would benefit from the range. Thanks again guys!

 

[Hooligans7]

I've learned a great deal of building detail from you guys and this has been a wonderful experience so far. I had a friend whom offered to help myself build my coop but he was an ex-contractor and insisted on the 2x6 and 2x4 method. I have decided to go ahead and use the much lighter and less expensive 2x3's with 16" centers with a lean to roof of the same, metal attached by purlins. I'll use treated lumber as a base. I've realized it's really important to make it as light as possible, even if I do call it a modified tractor! This way I'll be able to move it later if I wish since I have a large piece of property and the birds would benefit from the range. Thanks again guys!

Thank you for the kind words and ovations, and I think I can speak for Ridgerunner as well to say that we're very happy to help. BYC members are the best, and you'll find more helpful suggestions from many others, I'm sure.

 

[colburg]

Spitz, I would love to pitch in on some tractor ideas, but have a few questions for you.

How many chickens?
How much land would you move the tractor on?
Do you want to hand pull only, or is using a 4-wheeler or truck an option?
Enclosed run attached, or free-range during the day?

colburg

 

[Spitzboyz]

Spitz, I would love to pitch in on some tractor ideas, but have a few questions for you.

How many chickens?
How much land would you move the tractor on?
Do you want to hand pull only, or is using a 4-wheeler or truck an option?
Enclosed run attached, or free-range during the day?

colburg

Colburg, the coop will house 15 birds. I do not plan on moving it about the yard but I do plan being able to relocate it if needed. I have decided to build it light and small enough that I could possibly move it if I have to. It will not have wheels but stand on treated lumber 4x4 supports. In regards to the amount of land, I have about 10 acres but my run area will be around 8'x20' with 8' tall sides. I plan on keeping it attached with one 8' wall being the coop side. The biggest question now I have is should my run be 8' tall or is that a waste of wire? Thanks for your input Colburg!

 

[colburg]

Quote:
Colburg, the coop will house 15 birds. I do not plan on moving it about the yard but I do plan being able to relocate it if needed. I have decided to build it light and small enough that I could possibly move it if I have to. It will not have wheels but stand on treated lumber 4x4 supports. In regards to the amount of land, I have about 10 acres but my run area will be around 8'x20' with 8' tall sides. I plan on keeping it attached with one 8' wall being the coop side. The biggest question now I have is should my run be 8' tall or is that a waste of wire? Thanks for your input Colburg!

What I've noticed about my builds and from reading others is make it tall enough for you to be comfortable in. A lot of rebuilds occur after a few years of having to stoop to get in the coop. It's best to get the height right the first time. Have you thought about hooping your run? It'll save materials if you're running short. Just search hoop coops on BYC for ideas. Just make the middle 4-6" taller than you are. I'm 6'2" and the height of my hoop is about 6'6". As for being able to relocate, if you'll be moving it very far, even just 200 feet, you need to move it with them in it. I free-range during the day and learned that if I move it very far while they're out of it, I have to herd them into it in the evening or wait till dark and catch and carry almost all of them. I've also moved the coop with them in it during the day, let them out to free range, and they'll go back to the old spot and make me carry them back to the coop. In general, if the move is more than about 400', they get locked in coop for at least 24hrs. Then they'll do everything like normal without me chasing or carrying them. My roost is enclosed with a floor about 18" off the ground so I can lock them in the roost when I move it. That way if I jostle it too hard and one of them looses their balance, they land on the floor and not the ground. Hope this helps, colburg