Topic of the Week - Broody vs Incubator

[Prop toe]

Not adult hens Asil sorry app changed it to adult

 

[Lady of McCamley]

I'm a dedicated broody hen user. I started out with feed store chicks artificially brooded, and have a very small, simple incubator that I've used...but integration turned out to be the breaking point. After burning down a coop integrating new grow outs during a cold snap, I decided once and for all no more heat lamps in the coop, or gasp, in the house ever again. (2 of my close chicken keeping friends also burned coops down). Some of you have seen my member page and recognize the ash heap that was left of my beautiful coop....all hens lost.

So, I went to a chicken swap and bought a notoriously broody Silkie mother. She taught me what it meant to use a good broody mom...ie keep hands off, I'll do the work thank you. She had an excellent hatch rate, and went broody faithfully 3 to 4 times a year. She alone built my flock as I purchased locally (and sometimes had shipped) nice breeder quality eggs. In time I added 2 other Silkies and even a bantam Cochin.

I created a separate broody hutch with grow out pen, which greatly increases your odds of hatching well and chicks surviving. I rarely lost an egg or a chick with that set up. Over the years, that hutch being made from repurposed crates, weathered poorly. But amazingly by then, I'd had so many broody hatched hens, I now had hens going broody in the main coop. That is a little riskier, but my flock over the years has mellowed so much that they leave the mothers alone. I get excellent hatch rates with my broodies. (One broody notoriously had a 110% hatch rate...she always snuck an extra egg under a wing somewhere even though I always checked and never found it).

Main coop hatching does cause more chick risk as there is a possibility of wandering away or predator or (very rarely now) trampled by a flock member.

However, this last summer we had incredibly hot, hot weather (almost 108 degrees in our normally cool pacific northwest). Many people were losing chickens. Thankfully I didn't lose any flock members....I actually gained 5...one hen snuck off and hatched chicks during that 2 week hotspell...bringing them all healthy back to the flock. How she got water where she was I'll never know.

And absolutely yes, you can candle the eggs. (Why couldn't you?) Simply go out at night and gently grab eggs under the hen. She might peck, but you can easily do it.

For those who need to sell a lot of eggs, or grow a lot of chicks all seasons, an incubator would be the way to go. But for those of us who want a safe, sustainable flock, with complete ease of integration, great hatch rates, and high chick survivability, I can recommend creating a broody stable. Breeds that are notorious frequent brooders are your Silkies, bantam Cochins, and games. (One local breeder actually uses a host of Cochins to hatch turkey eggs that she uses to grow into birds for colorful feathers she sells...so she hatches a lot).

Just my experiences and thoughts.

LofMc

 

[Ons3Saam]

G'day everyone.

This is excellent timing as I've just released a video of our current broody VS incubator experience. I've included a link below.

If you find it interesting, we would appreciate a like and subscribe please. Every one helps.

Have a wonderful day further,
Ons3Saam

 

[GingerRose]

Im yet to get into breeding some one tell me if my plan is doomed to fail, but I have a flock of silkies that go broody all the time and sometimes we break em out of it and sometimes not. I plan on using the silkies to rear the eventual RIR flock we plan to have for eggs and meat. So we will let the RIR rooster mate and the RIR hen lay her eggs and then slip them under one of our super broody silkies and let them do the work.

This is very small scale not really fussed if we hatch 1 egg or 50, just an idea ive had rolling around in my head

I have 2 separate flocks of silkies. In my personal experience with my silkies, my hens are excellent mothers. 100% hatch rate and they are also excellent surrogates. This may not be the case with everyone who keeps silkies. I also have an incubator and "nursery" avaliable, just in case...

 

[themotleycoopchic]

Im yet to get into breeding some one tell me if my plan is doomed to fail, but I have a flock of silkies that go broody all the time and sometimes we break em out of it and sometimes not. I plan on using the silkies to rear the eventual RIR flock we plan to have for eggs and meat. So we will let the RIR rooster mate and the RIR hen lay her eggs and then slip them under one of our super broody silkies and let them do the work.

This is very small scale not really fussed if we hatch 1 egg or 50, just an idea ive had rolling around in my head

It should work..my silkie is raising austra whites now...and she had no problem hatching any other breeds eggs I've put under her. I usually only give her six eggs at a tine, so no more than six standard size chick's to raise since she's smaller.

 

[gimmie birdies]

I have a turner and air in my incubator, and can walk away for the first 18 days, if I want. And I can hatch all year round.

 

[Crazychickengirl2]

I've only used a incubator, buy really want to try broody. Any tips for using broody?

 

[Lady of McCamley]

I've only used a incubator, buy really want to try broody. Any tips for using broody?

You will need a dependable broody first. Many commercially purchased hens are not good brooders because the hatcheries select for egg quantity which conversely deselects for brooding.

If you can, I really recommend buying a notoriously broody Silkie hen from a local Silkie breeder. They almost always have one (or two) they are willing to part with. I paid $30 for my hen, which was worth every penny in gold.

Set up a quiet area with food and water closeby in a location the hen can access without confusing where her nest is or be bothered by others. I prefer starting out setting up a little broody stable with attached grow out pen. You can main coop hatch, but for first timers it brings in a lot more challenges (what to do with eggs laid in the nest, hens jousting for nest position, risk to eggs). If you can, I'd wait to get your flock broody wise before main coop brooding.

Now wait. If you've gotten a couple of Silkies (recommend), and they've settled, somebody is going to go broody probably within a month. Set them on "dud" eggs and let them settle a good 2 days. Most faithful Silkies will set day one, but you aren't familiar with your gals, so you want to be sure they are deep in a set. You will recognize it. They do not get off the nest except for about 20 minutes once a day to excrete an enormous poo, eat, drink, then back to the nest to stare into space...growling and pecking at anyone (or thing) that comes near their nest.

After you've got her settled, place your desired fertilized eggs under her. It's best to get them locally if at all possible. Shipped eggs risk air cell detachment and are hard to time for arrival. Ask around for local breeders BEFORE your hen goes broody to line up a quick acquirement of egg sources.

Mark eggs. I prefer to put the date I set them (as I tend to forget). You can use pencil or permanent marker.

Go out at night and slip the fertilized desired eggs under your broody hen. If Silkie, I recommend no more than 6 standard size eggs due to her small size. A standard hen can handle 8 to 10, depending on size.

Now wait again. Resist temptation to keep checking the eggs under the hen. On day 5 (no sooner than 3), go out at night and quietly, gently candle the eggs. This can be done by the coop with a strong LED flashlight. Pick up each egg and candle. At this stage, those developing will have a little "bean" in the center with veins radiating out like a road map. Those that are infertile will be all clear. Practice with eggs from the coop to see what clear looks like. Blue eggs are much harder to candle as they are so dense. You may not see too much.

Wait some more. Spend your time keeping clean water and feed for the hen. If you like you can place some Chick Saver vitamins and electrolytes into her waterer to give her a boost since she is on a marathon.

You can recheck eggs at day 14. Candling should show a big dark blob on one end with clear air cell on other. Remove any that are clear or clearly not developed.

Wait some more. On day 18 resist the temptation to run out and check. KEEP HANDS OFF. It is lock down for the hen. Many hens do not leave the nest for the last 2 days. On day 21 you can STAND BY and listen. RESIST the temptation to peek and see what is happening. You risk causing a "shrink wrap" with a chick that is in a delicate hatch phase.

By end of day 22 it should be pretty obvious you have some cheeping chicks. Gently lift up and remove broken shells and take a quick look at what may be unhatched. At this point you may wish to check the unhatched eggs to see if there is movement by candling. Definitely by day 23 take unhatched eggs away as you want mom and babes up and foraging for food.

Mom will care for those hatched chicks. You do not need to heat mom or chicks. (I've had hatches in the dead of January during a snow/ice blizzard...momma and babes were fine.) Take quick peeks at them as momma begins to move. She will sit a lot during the first couple of days keeping them warm. By day 3 after hatch they will be up and scratching. By end of week 1 you've got crazy little baby chicks running around with momma doing her best to keep up with them. They will roost together in the nest for the first 3 to 4 weeks. Momma will teach them to roost by week 4 or 5. Some hens kick them to the curb by week 4 to 6...Silkies tend to not know how to cut the apron strings. Mine have been known to mother them until the chicks are bigger than mom.

That's the gist. Feel free to PM me if you'd like any specifics for your situation.
LofMc

 

[Crazychickengirl2]

Ok thanks! And I have silkies

You will need a dependable broody first. Many commercially purchased hens are not good brooders because the hatcheries select for egg quantity which conversely deselects for brooding.

If you can, I really recommend buying a notoriously broody Silkie hen from a local Silkie breeder. They almost always have one (or two) they are willing to part with. I paid $30 for my hen, which was worth every penny in gold.

Set up a quiet area with food and water closeby in a location the hen can access without confusing where her nest is or be bothered by others. I prefer starting out setting up a little broody stable with attached grow out pen. You can main coop hatch, but for first timers it brings in a lot more challenges (what to do with eggs laid in the nest, hens jousting for nest position, risk to eggs). If you can, I'd wait to get your flock broody wise before main coop brooding.

Now wait. If you've gotten a couple of Silkies (recommend), and they've settled, somebody is going to go broody probably within a month. Set them on "dud" eggs and let them settle a good 2 days. Most faithful Silkies will set day one, but you aren't familiar with your gals, so you want to be sure they are deep in a set. You will recognize it. They do not get off the nest except for about 20 minutes once a day to excrete an enormous poo, eat, drink, then back to the nest to stare into space...growling and pecking at anyone (or thing) that comes near their nest.

After you've got her settled, place your desired fertilized eggs under her. It's best to get them locally if at all possible. Shipped eggs risk air cell detachment and are hard to time for arrival. Ask around for local breeders BEFORE your hen goes broody to line up a quick acquirement of egg sources.

Mark eggs. I prefer to put the date I set them (as I tend to forget). You can use pencil or permanent marker.

Go out at night and slip the fertilized desired eggs under your broody hen. If Silkie, I recommend no more than 6 standard size eggs due to her small size. A standard hen can handle 8 to 10, depending on size.

Now wait again. Resist temptation to keep checking the eggs under the hen. On day 5 (no sooner than 3), go out at night and quietly, gently candle the eggs. This can be done by the coop with a strong LED flashlight. Pick up each egg and candle. At this stage, those developing will have a little "bean" in the center with veins radiating out like a road map. Those that are infertile will be all clear. Practice with eggs from the coop to see what clear looks like. Blue eggs are much harder to candle as they are so dense. You may not see too much.

Wait some more. Spend your time keeping clean water and feed for the hen. If you like you can place some Chick Saver vitamins and electrolytes into her waterer to give her a boost since she is on a marathon.

You can recheck eggs at day 14. Candling should show a big dark blob on one end with clear air cell on other. Remove any that are clear or clearly not developed.

Wait some more. On day 18 resist the temptation to run out and check. KEEP HANDS OFF. It is lock down for the hen. Many hens do not leave the nest for the last 2 days. On day 21 you can STAND BY and listen. RESIST the temptation to peek and see what is happening. You risk causing a "shrink wrap" with a chick that is in a delicate hatch phase.

By end of day 22 it should be pretty obvious you have some cheeping chicks. Gently lift up and remove broken shells and take a quick look at what may be unhatched. At this point you may wish to check the unhatched eggs to see if there is movement by candling. Definitely by day 23 take unhatched eggs away as you want mom and babes up and foraging for food.

Mom will care for those hatched chicks. You do not need to heat mom or chicks. (I've had hatches in the dead of January during a snow/ice blizzard...momma and babes were fine.) Take quick peeks at them as momma begins to move. She will sit a lot during the first couple of days keeping them warm. By day 3 after hatch they will be up and scratching. By end of week 1 you've got crazy little baby chicks running around with momma doing her best to keep up with them. They will roost together in the nest for the first 3 to 4 weeks. Momma will teach them to roost by week 4 or 5. Some hens kick them to the curb by week 4 to 6...Silkies tend to not know how to cut the apron strings. Mine have been known to mother them until the chicks are bigger than mom.

That's the gist. Feel free to PM me if you'd like any specifics for your situation.
LofMc

 

[AOrchard]

I am pro-broody!

I carefully select broodies who are calm, dedicated, and friendly when with chicks. I have three mamas who all teach the chicks to eat out of my hand. They produce the friendliest most social babies who are also chicken-wise and can easily navigate and thrive in flock dynamics.

I feel my broody raised chicks grow up faster than my pen raised chicks. They seem to feather out sooner and develop physical and social skills at a more advanced rate. I've even had some buyers comment on how much more competent my broody raised chicks are compared to non-broody raised ones. Some of this could be genetics. (I will say my mama heating pad chicks are closer to my broody raised chicks than my heating lamp chicks, I assume this is due to experiencing the natural cycles of day and night and eating and sleeping that goes with.) At some point I want to do a side by side study with siblings and see.

My broodies go in a pen attached to the main run until the chicks are starting to roost.

Broody raised chicks are so much less work for me too!

The only time I don't like broodies, is when I see hatching eggs for sale that I want, but none of my hens are currently broody...