Tractor light enough to move, but sturdy enough for wind

[AnnieJ]

I have been trying to find a design for a chicken tractor that is large enough for six hens, light enough for me to move by myself, and withstand the 45 mph winds we get here sometimes. We just had a windstorm yesterday and my latest project did not stand up to the wind! The run is in pieces. Luckily I got the ladies in the barn before anyone was injured by flying debris! Any ideas?

 

[Zahboo]

Have you thought of building a little heavy but keeping it short to the ground and on wheels.

 

[Mucky]

What about staking it to the ground? You can still build it light but will have to take the extra step of staking it.

 

[WoodlandWoman]

We used 2x2s for the frame on our tractor and put them together with wood screws. My husband drilled pilot holes for the screws. This really keeps the run held together. We also used 1/2" hardware cloth, which adds a bit of weigh and stability. This was attached with screws and washers.

The basic design was a long, low rectangle. There is a lightweight, ridged roof panel of some type of synthetic over the run section, on top of the wire. I think it might be a sun/shade panel?

The housing end has plywood. It was lightweight enough to move and heavy enough not to tip over. When he decided to add a second story to the housing section, with additional plywood, that made wheels necessary for that end.

 

[A.T. Hagan]

I'd go with an A-frame or a hoop type structure. Keep the weight mostly in the bottom. If you're going to have gale force or higher winds seriously consider tying it to the ground.

.....Alan.

 

[Bear Foot Farm]

Make it as light as you can, and get some screw in "ground anchors" to attach to the corners

http://cn1.kaboodle.com/hi/img/b/0/0/13/b/AAAACx_HqEAAAAAAABO4Yw.jpg

 

[bumpershoot]

My husband and I were just discussing this topic yesterday. We have been eyeballing Alan's hoop coup design with a base of PVC (which might or might not be filled with dirt). To anchor it we were discussing filling old feed sacks (ones that are woven) with dirt/sand and tying them to the corners and mid points for weight. We can get gusts of 60 mph around here so it can look like the Wizard of Oz is practicing for the tornado scenes sometimes. It will be interesting what suggestions this topic brings up.

 

[WoodlandWoman]

What kind of design and materials did you use for the one that didn't hold up?

 

[Ridgerunner]

Agree with the screws instead of nails and pilot holes to keep the wood from splitting.

Diagonal bracing, definitely at the end away from the coop portion and maybe on the coop portion depending on how it is built, adds a whole lot to stability if you build it square or rectangle. You can use a piece of wood, say a 1 x 4, if you want, for this diagonal. A solid piece of plywood adds this stability too but adds more weight. But the plywood might give shade and wind protection if it is situated right. If you are going to add some type of wind protection, putting it on the smaller end hurts less than putting it where the wind hits it broadside as far as the wind trying to turn it over. I'd do this under the coop for sure to get the added wind and shade under the coop where the added wieght will probably hurt the least when you go to move it, but I'll mention the plywood as an easy option on the far end to get that added stability. Tradeoffs on everything.

You might consider an A-frame shape on the run portion. The triangular A-frame is harder to fit and build, but it is very stable if you get your connections tight. If it is covered with wire instead of something solid for wind or shade, the extra height you need with the A-frame design will not add much to wind load. I don't like the A-frame on the coop end because you lose a lot of usable space up top. This means you have to go higher with something solid, which adds to the wind area where you do not want it. I have not tried it, but I think the hoop shape would work very well for the run portion too. Just get the bottom connections tight.

Keep your profile as low as possible where you have something solid to catch the wind. Consider your coop area only for roosting and nesting boxes (with 6 hens you only need 2) and feed and water under your coop in the dry and shade. This keeps your coop smaller. Four feet of roosts is enough for 6 chickens.

Adding more weight at the bottom and less on top is definitely a good idea as far as it turning over, but I'd trust staking it a lot more than just added weight. It is more work when you move it but you can build your tractor a little lighter and the tie-backs add a lot to the stability. If the cord is tight the tightbacks will help stop your joints working lose in the wind. Or you might consider outriggers. If your tractor is say 4' wide, attach an 8' or 10' long 2x4 to the ends, maybe with pins or clamps, across the width to add weight and stability. I like the tiebacks better with my uneven ground, but on flat land I could easily see a couple of bolts sticking out of the bottom ends, having a 2x4 with predrilled holes, and using wingnuts and washers to fasten them. Add bottom weight without adding weight during the move and increasing the effective width against the wind turning it over.

Lots of different options, all with tradeoffs. I don't know if any of this helps, but maybe you or someone else can pick something useful out of this.

 

[ericsplls]

Mine has been in 40-50 mph gusts and hasn't moved yet. It's an a frame style. The bottom runners are 3/4 inch conduit with the last foot bent up like a sled. The rest of it is framed with 1/2 inch conduit. It has a 5x9 foot print and is a little over four foot tall. I could carry the frame without any problem before I enclosed it. Back six foot is covered by tin. Front three foot covered with wire. I kept six hens in it with no problems. Right now i'm using it as an intermittent pen for some bantam chicks. I also trimmed the bottom all the way around with a 1x6 fence board. I've just found your less likely to have digging by critters if there is something solid on the bottom. It will also give me somewhere to attatch insulators when I get around to getting a battery powered charger to mount on it. It is easy to move as long as the grass isn't too tall. Only downside is you need access to a welder to build one and attatching wire can be difficult on conduit.